|03-30-2006 06:03 PM|
Yea, right! I want to see a picture of that run!
|03-30-2006 04:41 PM|
You know me ---low key and under the radar. Tried the same thing on that SPI clear. It worked quite well. First off can't believe I got a run to begin with!!!Ha Ha
Talk to you later.
|03-30-2006 07:24 AM|
I'm still trying to figure that trick out.
I attempted it a couple of times and I obviously don't really understand exactly what we are trying to do. Not like I really know anything anyway.
Graphic guys have it the easiest. Just put a skull over it or some more fire. hehehe.
"Son, That's what trim is for."
|03-29-2006 11:22 AM|
Glad it worked Milo but there is a moral to this story!
A few weeks ago, I hired a guy to floor tile the restrooms and break-rooms and told him up front this was not to look like an industrial building job, so I bought real nice tile as may sell this building in a year or so.
He got all done and I said your an artist!
"No, I know how to hide my mistakes that is the trick"
I think this may apply to painters also?
|03-29-2006 09:30 AM|
|03-09-2006 01:27 AM|
well, dont know if anyone is watchin this anymore. but heres some info for a good thickness gauge.
heres another source. http://www.promotorcarproducts.com/p...OVMTC=advanced
I have the ETGA ferrous (steel only) model. ive knocked it around pretty good, and its still kickin.
Here is a ferrous/non ferrous (non steel) model
I have used a different model (i dont recall name) that is just for plastic only. I think it was ultrasonic or something like that. you had to put goop on the surface. one kewl thing about it was it could read 3 different layers at the same time. but, sadly, it was a huge innaccurate POS. you got a different reading every time. +/-40micron just didnt cut it.
thats just my experience with that particular UltraSound ETG.
25microns = 1mil = .001inch
hey Barry, after 12 years haulin yours around, do you still have your calibrating foils?
|12-18-2005 05:34 PM|
My pleasure SR66.
There are some that do now work on aluminum and maybe Fiberglas also but don't know as have not kept up with it.
|12-18-2005 03:54 PM|
thanks for the 411
|12-18-2005 03:17 PM|
I suppose that means that they don't work on fiberglass or aluminum.
|12-18-2005 07:40 AM|
Here is a mill from a new Toyota hood.
I have had this gauge forever it seem like.
|12-18-2005 07:34 AM|
|shine||now your making me feel old barry i think i paid about 16 bucks for mine. i did wear one out and figured out not to stretch it more than 10 mills. if it has more than that it's too much anyway. my old one still seems to be good [ i hope ].i strip everything now days so i only use it to check what i've done. the blasting booth has really spoiled me.|
|12-18-2005 07:21 AM|
They make a lot of different ones and you can pay $5 up into the thousands for a mil Gauge.
The most common used by body shop appraisers or car buyers are the magnetic spring types for an APPROXIMATE reading of paint and or to test for body filler. Most of the magnetic gauges will stop reading at about 20-30 mils and they work better at telling you if a panel has been repaired with filler as you will get a "no reading". When brand new they are fairly accurate on paint mills but very soon they start losing their accuracy.
The one I carry in the car with me is an electronic on that runs off batteries, it s not the best in the world but it has ridden in the back of my car for about 12 years now, so if anything happens to it its not the end of the world.
I think I paid $600-700 back when I bought it.
I do know there is a company out there now Pro-something? that has a very nice electronic one for about $350-500.
A lot of estimators use these and I just can see how you can write an estimate on a 5-10 year old car with out knowing if its been painted 0-4 times.
|12-18-2005 07:19 AM|
|shine||mine is older than dirt but it's just a magnet that has marks to read when it releases. great for checking for bondo on a car that you want to buy.|
|12-18-2005 07:00 AM|
How does the tool work to measure mil thickness? All I can think of is a magnet, or maybe using light (only for clear).
When I painted my Allante, I just did it by "feel". Having some sort of gauge would have made a big difference, just to confirm I was doing it right.
Is this something we should invest in, rent or borrow when doing a job?
|12-18-2005 06:59 AM|
so how dose it work is it like a feeler gage of like a infrared thermometer
or something else i remember someone telling me (long time ago that there was a tool that would measure paint thickness and indicate body work
fact or fiction??
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