|01-16-2006 12:46 PM|
here are some better images (I used putty in the largest hole and sprayed primer on the surface):
|01-14-2006 02:12 AM|
|kenseth17||I'll agree that it sure has been nice out for being January. Suppose to be the second warmest Jan. in history, and its only half over. I have never used por15. My thoughts are that the best way to deal with rust is to get rid of it all period, blast or replace, and not rely on some product to do the job. You find enough rust in this area. I always heard that there were a lot of bodymen and painters from the wisconsin area. I am believing it after this thread. Green Bay has quite a bit of bodyshops for its size, bet it was hard for some collision shops to make it when the recession first hit. Seen quite a few cars driving around with damage. Heard a lot of people took the insurance money and drove them damaged if they could. I've only been to iola once, in early 90's, but it was awesome. Got to make it to another someday.|
|01-14-2006 12:38 AM|
|01-13-2006 09:28 PM|
what i used
I agree on the door skins,but for surface rust I used Eastwood Corroless .The best I have ever seen.You can thin it 15 per cent and spray or poor it into nooks and crannys.On surface rust paint with a throw away brush,after drying sand lightly 400 paper prime etc.My understanding is that this is used on oil rigs in the north sea.Your door skin does not really look that bad to me,look at mine on my 40 pontiac.Idid have to buy from ems.I used corroless on the entire car about 125.00 worth.I guess it is what your budget allows.
|01-13-2006 06:13 PM|
|STATUTORY GRAPE||I'd like to do to one of them when I get mine done.|
|01-13-2006 02:36 PM|
Assuming you want to save the door. If it was surface rust and not rust bleeding through the seams from underneath I'd remove the door and then sandblast the area.
If you don't care much and just want to slow it down I'd spray something like extend at it and maybe that might do something for a month or two.
Grape, No I don't. I used to but not any more. You can never get a parking spot for a show car unless you get there....well a lot earlier than I want to. They also have really cut down on the show car space and that's what I am interested in. I'm not interested in going to Jefferson to buy a car nor do I like swap meets. Two years in a row I drove there with the 70 Camaro and they were out of spaces, even though I got there at 8:00 AM. They wanted me to park in a parking lot. No friggin way, ain't gonna happen with my car.
I like to go to Iola and try to make that show every year. The Feature cars at Iola (Woody's) this year were spectacular. Lots of junk there as well.
Will be going to the Street Machine Nationals in Minneapolis this year I think, since the Power Tour is all on the east coast. The Power Tour and the types of cars that attend that event is what gets my juices flowing. Lots of HP, very nice body work, and driven on the street.
|01-12-2006 08:42 PM|
|STATUTORY GRAPE||JR66FORD,,,,I'm not talking to you because you have a LOT better weather than me . I'd start by spraying weed killer in there,,,,,NO,,,,,,,WAIT,,,,,,JUST KIDDING . This sounds like a question for someone with more knowledge than I me Hey Rick,,,here's a REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY (how many is that) dumb question,,,,do you go to Jefferson?|
|01-12-2006 07:50 PM|
I dont' mean to butt in on this thread, but I have a similar question. My front doors jambs, behind the kick panel have surface rust. I can't get in the with a sandblaster. What can I spray on there to kill it. It was bad in a couple of places that I've already cut out, but I don't want it coming back.
BTW, it was 75 here today and has been for the past 2 weeks or so.
|01-12-2006 06:55 PM|
|STATUTORY GRAPE||Yeah, It was around 43 here today JUST BEEE EEEE AAAA YUUUTIFULL If I'm ever good enough to do a $110,000 restoration job I'll use something different, Maybe, depends on how good of a job this stuff does. A guy called me one night to do a 69 Camaro, I'd like to and charge him like a PRO (not real confident about doing a car of that caliber yet though)|
|01-12-2006 05:31 PM|
Glad you got the corners fixed and things worked out for you. I have a nice 68 Camaro I am restoring that was POR'ed by the first guy that took on the project and it looks like sheet. This after sitting in a barn for 2 years.
Your application is totally different that what was in the picture. That door is rot, plain and simply. Nothing short of surgery is going to fix that. I think your success was having the metal sandblasted and clean to start with. As long as the metal is sealed it should be fine. My method would have been to sandblast, epoxy, primer surfacer, block and paint.
I am about as far removed from being a POR fan as you can get. I I have 3 vehicles in my shop right now that are worth about $110,000. It's worth it to me to make sure I do repairs to the highest level I can. I can't afford to have them fail shortly after.
Yeah, I hate POR 15 type products. I rank them right up there with oil additives like Slick 50.
Something else to think about. In my consulting business I get into a lot of various metal fabrication facilities. Like the John Deere Stamping plants, Toro, Mayville Metals, APW, Karavan Trailers, Skag, Tab Products, MEC and others. None of these facities that still need to wet spray some products for customers use anything remotely close to a POR 15 product. If it was the end all be all of protection these companies would use it since protection of thier product is such a high priority. If it out performed a salt spray test or adhesion test they would be all over it. If they need the best money can buy they powder coat. Otherwise it's a 7 stage phosphate wash and epoxy then into the bake oven.
|01-11-2006 10:21 PM|
|chadsbodyshop49119||I've seen it come back on one project,, and i use it all the time.. but i don't think it was a appropriate use of it... other than that...|
|01-11-2006 10:11 AM|
|STATUTORY GRAPE||Hey Rick, how's it going in Madison, I'm from LaCrosse. I painted a truck once that had bad surface rust on the cab corners and on the cab right above the windshield where the paint flaked off, so I sandblated the rusty spots and put POR-15 (black) on it, sanded smooth and primed and painted over it. It's only been about 3 years since I done this truck but it will be interesting to see if the rust ever comes back on those spots|
|01-10-2006 07:23 PM|
|chadsbodyshop49119||Yea sorry to say but the POR15 is not going to cut it here...|
|01-10-2006 05:01 PM|
Thanks a bunch Fleetline! Check out my website, www.chevybombs.com
I love the Aerosedans!
|01-10-2006 04:52 PM|
|46chevyfleetline||Hey DJJ; I would replace the bottom of the door myself. Part #126 from EMS in ohio. That gives you the inner and outer lower door skin. Do it right the first time and it will last you another 60 years. Price is around 160.00US. If I can be of any help to you just pm me. I'm in the process of getting my '46 back together. Good luck. Its nice to see someone else has a great taste for those fat fendered forties. Cheers!!!!!|
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