|01-21-2006 06:48 PM|
|01-21-2006 02:16 PM|
Good tip bondo,, i always try to come up with some kind of contraption for the hard to reach areas, but your idea would probably work also..
but I agree epoxy first, now he might be able to get away with just using the turbo primer, but it's still good to epoxy first..
|01-20-2006 07:42 PM|
|BondoKing||A small tip, if you find places you cant sand for some reason, spray a little bulldog adhesion promoter on it before you bc/cc... not a replacement for sanding, but will help in hard to reach area's|
|01-20-2006 07:13 PM|
Ooookayyyy. I sure hate to hear that, it makes so much more work! I epoxied my frame rails to keep them from rusting and after welding in my boxing plates will need to do it all over again. Same will happen with each piece or panel that I finish now and weld in later (which will be everything). I just don't have the facilities or time to do it all at once...
Thanks for the replies!
|01-20-2006 06:08 PM|
|67goat||absolutely epoxy first, then 2k block and then if there is any places you have burn through sanding, you can shoot epoxy on the spots and paint ..mike|
|01-20-2006 03:10 PM|
|Centerline||I agree. Epoxy first...|
|01-19-2006 09:35 PM|
|baddbob||epoxy should go on first, your 2K surfacer can go directly on the epoxy without scuffing if it's applied within the window, the 2k will need to be scuffed/sanded before you apply any topcoat.|
|01-19-2006 07:13 PM|
Another primer "order" question...
I have a gallon of SPI epoxy and a gallon of 2K high-build. I'd like to spray the 2K over bare metal, do the filling and sanding, then use the epoxy as a seal coat. The reason being I've already used the epoxy for the running boards and some of the floor and it's a pain to do small sections (like I need to do). The cleanup is pure h&ll and after the 7 day working "window", it's pretty tough to scuff especially in hard to get to areas. Would this be OK?