|01-24-2006 03:06 PM|
A big garbage bag and a grinder shield keep me fairly crud free.
|01-24-2006 07:02 AM|
|engineczar||For me it wasn't so much the hot tank end of the deal but the final washing I was curious about and not so much the technique but the equipment used. I too get a little bit too wet when I wash a block.|
|01-24-2006 12:15 AM|
|jimfulco||Beware if you use the pressure-washer-in-the-driveway technique. Every car within 50 feet (more if there's any wind) will be finely splattered with crud.|
|01-23-2006 06:31 PM|
I jet wash mine to remove the oils, etc after maching, I then put it on a cart and power wash it with hot soapy water, I brush out all oil passages and then final rinse it. I might add that I always final wash AFTER I have put the cam bearings in to wash out any material that might have skinned off after installing them. I flood all of the oil passages thoroughly with clean water. I blow it dry and then hand clean the cylinder bores with lint free cloth, then yes, clean toilet paper. I keep wiping the bores down with light oil until the toilet paper is perfectly clean with no residue on it, then I know the bores are clean and oiled.
I always get soggy when I final wash a block, but I have as yet found a way to keep from it.
I don't like to re-hot tank blocks in dirty hot tanks. I've always felt that there is too much of a chance of actually putting debris back in somewhere as opposed to removing it.
For DIY guys, the car wash and the pickup bed is a pretty good final wash, although you might get accused of being a red neck, but who cares, all that matters is a clean engine.
|01-23-2006 05:51 PM|
washing an engine
i use oven cleaner its cheap.spray it down let it soke then preasure wash it.
|01-23-2006 05:31 PM|
|Rick WI||After machining we use the hot tank for about 20 minutes. After it comes out we have a mix of Dawn dishwashing liquid and hot water at the ready. The block is scrubbed in every orifice with a selection of bottle and bore brushes and scrub pads. Every inch is cleaned over and over. The block and passages are then rinsed with hot water to remove residuals then blown dry throughout and then sprayed down with a light lubricant to prevent corrosion. They are then installed on a stand and bagged.|
|01-23-2006 04:50 PM|
|johnsongrass1||1 gallon Purple Power and a pressure cleaner. You hook up air to the gun and it siphons the cleaner. Works great.|
|01-23-2006 04:34 PM|
|DHMag||with the block on a stand, i wheel mine to the driveway, armed with a pressure washer and a couple gallons on Purple Power.|
|01-23-2006 01:43 PM|
A regular mineral spirits washer for small stuff. A homemade "Hot tank" for blocks&heads. A "repair drum" which is a large 55 gal. type drum. It sets on a stand on end. I welded a threaded bung from an old hot water heater in the lower part. Installed a large electric heater element and the thermostat from the old water heater. Made up a metal tray/platform that fits well above the element to set blocks/heads on.
I then added circulation to it by buying an old soft drink Carbonator pump. )Goodwill store, $10.00) Mounted to the side and plumbed into home made jets that are bunged into the side. When turned on it makes a really strong whirlpool.
For aluminum I usually use hot "Super Clean" but you have to be quick, as the cleaner can be hard on non ferrous parts. For blocks and heads (iron) I use a cleaner made for metal. It smells like oven cleaner, has a high Lye soap content.
|01-23-2006 01:26 PM|
What are you guys using for equipment when washing your blocks? Are you guys using an oversized parts washer, a giant deep sink, hauling it out to the driveway and using a garden hose, what works for you?
I use an oversize deep sink with screens in the bottom but I'm looking for something with a bit more access. It works great on heads but blocks can be a pain.