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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-07-2006 10:58 PM
workingclass
re: Heating a cinderblock garage

I could definitely see using the foamular on the garage door at least. Thanks for the web site.--Kevin
02-07-2006 07:33 AM
brainsboy Well I have a natural heater, I live in Florida, but the same thing applies to keeping cold air in, and heat out. What I have found is to use Foamular. The trick comes by using it on all sides, ceiling, floor. For Floors the best way is to put it down first then cement over it.

http://www.owenscorning.com/around/i...s/foamular.asp
02-07-2006 06:18 AM
Ratdoggy I have a 2 car cinderblock garage that I used to use a wood stove to heat.I was getting skids for free so it was really cheap to use . Just a lot of work cutting wood . I took it out because it took a while to heat up the place plus the mess. I now use a kero torpedo heater. It doesn't use that much kero to keep it comfortable. There is a small odor but I use clean kero NOT diesel fuel. When I get home from work I turn it on and go eat dinner so it's warming up everything;tools, car and all the other junk. The other reason is that if I want to use any solvents I just unplug the thing. You can't just turn off a woodstove
The stove is going to cost something and your time is worth something also
02-06-2006 06:27 PM
Jmark Workingclass.....I'm been on my own for about 15 years now. Doing ok along with my wife working. Its just the 2 of us now and the house and cars are finally paid off. Here is my web site

As far as the insurance goes, thats possible, but never checked. My agent told me since I work at home in the shop, the building is covered but NONE of my tools or contents sense i'm "not in code compliance". I've talked to the city and they have NO problem with me working BY MYSELF in my shop but the insurance guys still say no. Oh well. I"m very careful and have it alarmed and monitored too. I live in a fairly high crime area of Phoenix. Didn't use to be this way but......oh well.

I put on a 1 1/2 ton AC last year. Just too darn hot in the summer months. The evap just won't cut it when the temp is 110 and humidity is over 30 percent. Had to build a custom 3 filter return so I can run the really good filters and not plug them too fast. I just vacuum them out when they get bad enough. Does a super job of filtering the air too if I just run the fan.

Mark
02-05-2006 08:59 AM
theHIGHLANDER Workingclass...if you care about such things, your homeowners part of the policy regarding the garage will be VOID if heated with a woodstove and used for automobiles of any kind should something bad occur. Since you live in a suburban area, I assume your house is nat'l gas. I ran 150' of gas line and fittings to hook up my overhead unit heater in the barn. All in the heater, fittings and Tstat cost me less that $300. I bought a 175,000 BTU unit heater for $100, the rest was trencher rental and supplies. I'm certain you wont have that much problem since I'd bet your garage is pretty close to the house. One gasoline leak can ruin you whole day! FUMES LAY ON THE FLOOR. BE CAUTIOUS OF WHAT YOU USE FOR A FURNACE. That's the reason I prefer to have a hanging furnace. Some UL safe units are available for such uses. If cost is the primary issue, don't forget the cost of your largest investment. At home decades ago we installed one in a 32x22 garage and it still works very well. Anyone in the heating and cooling biz can help you "certify" a decent furnace installation to keep your policies in effect. Good luck with your choices, just some things to think about.
02-03-2006 10:51 PM
workingclass
re: Heating a cinderblock garage

Wow JMARK, thats quite a set-up you have there and the price is definitely right. I should start paying more attention on trash night from now on. Thanks- How long have you been building cabinets?
02-03-2006 03:58 PM
Jmark My shop is block, 20 by 30 with a 12' peak inside. I've insulated the roof with 3" fiberglass (scavanged from a Dillards remodel) then covered it with white ceiling tiles (scavanged from a demo'd Auto Zone). I have a small pot belly stove with a big heat exchanger on the pipe that has an old hang-on A/C blower motor on it. I can literally roast myself out of my shop in about 30 minutes of feeding the stove. I also have a (scavanged of course!) small dual fan behind the stove to blow the heat off the cast iron.

For backup, I (scavanged) my neighbors gas furnace when they upgraded a few years ago. I have it mounted outside next to my door. It blows outside air inside so I can shoot lacquer (I'm a cabinet maker) and not blow up my shop. A little venting and i'm good to go.

Mark

02-03-2006 02:10 PM
1931 steve If you are looking for just the blow in insulation, if you buy it from Home Depot they will loan you the machine to blow it in.

Steve
02-03-2006 01:53 PM
Meteor
Heating a cinderblock garage

Sorry Workingclass,

I called it KB board but I think the proper term is OSB board. It is basically a plywood board made out of large wood flakes and resins. Some people say OSB is better and stronger than plywood and some say it's not, but it is used by a lot of quality building contractors in place of plywood. I don't recall what it cost to have that cellulose blown in but you can price it at your local materials supplier and maybe Home Depot.

Neil is right, you can actually de-bag the the insulation and spread it manually. If you don't mind climbing through the trusses and be sure to wear a very very good quality dust mask. You don't want those to expose your lung tissues to the fibers. I would talk with some experienced people before I tried it manually to decide if the cost savings are worth it.

Meteor
02-03-2006 11:04 AM
35WINDOW Has anyone considered a PTAC? It would warm you in the Winter and cool you in the Summer-
02-03-2006 10:45 AM
workingclass
re: Heating a cinderblock garage

Cool thanks guys, I'm definitely headed in the right direction. I appreciate all your help. Kevin
02-03-2006 05:40 AM
Neil Hochstedler
Quote:
Originally Posted by workingclass
Cool, I thought I was going in the right direction for once. By the way, what is KB board and roughly how much would it be to spray the cellulose and is it something I could myself? Thanks, you guys are great.
You can definitely do it yourself. Check with whoever you're likely to buy the cellulose from- they often rent small blowers. Rental yards may have them, too. Should be around $10/day and you'll need it for a day. (BTW, cellulose spraying is a different and more complicated process for getting the insulation to stick to walls. You don't need it for your ceiling job. Just so you're asking for the right machine.)

You might also check around with local insulation companies- they buy their insulation at bulk prices and sometimes can sell it, installed, for less than you can buy it.
02-02-2006 11:35 PM
Fat Freddy
fat freddy

get a old mobile home furnace they run on oil or kerosene, they hat up fast and blow the heat aound. I use a wood stove cause i have woods to cut.
i use a propane for the initial blast of warm air. while the stove makes heat, and if ya can afford it insulate.
don't for get south facing windows help get 'er warm in the mornin' ya can get some cheap foil and foam insulation panels at home depot for about 10 bcuks a sheet with a 6.6 rating and the foil will spread the light and reflect the heat around.
I did my roof inside with it and i live where cold is cold, and the sheep don't sleep.
02-02-2006 10:54 PM
workingclass
Heating a cinderblock garage

Hey Home Brew- That trailer furnace sounds like a great idea, I have a friend that owes me some money that lives in one close by lol.

Steve, I'm just off 7 mile between Inkster and Beech Daly. I will definitely hit you up come spring. Thanks
02-02-2006 01:11 PM
home brew
Heating a cinderblock garage

If you are going to heat your shop with a wood stove or natural gas furnace try to supply it with a fresh air source to the firebox. No use sucking in cold air through the cracks around your doors and windows and using your already warm air to feed the fire. An insulated pipe to the front of your fire box will work. Make sure you have a flapper valve on the intake of the pipe which will close when your heating source is not in use. You could use one from a clothes dryer vent except install it backwards.
If you can find a natural gas furnace from a mobile home they have their warm air outlet on the bottom and it heats the floor area first before the heat rises; unlike a house furnace which has the warm air outlet at the top and you heat the ceiling first and then slowly the heat gets down to where you are working.
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