|02-05-2006 12:32 PM|
|STATUTORY GRAPE||The last time I had paint mixed to match it really came close, almost un-noticeable. I'll probably go to the same place, it should turn out O.K. Thanks Kenseth.|
|02-04-2006 09:31 PM|
|kenseth17||Well in that case, I think I would hope for a good match and a experienced mixer who is good at what he does. I really wouldn't try to blend up into the side panels with the clear, you would be better off then just to do a complete or at least clear it all. You do get a price break on gallons of clear over buying and quarts, and just if your willing to invest and get paid for the extra time involved to do it, more so then a huge difference in material cost. Your plan sounds good, spray the trunk lid first or a test card and compare match. Explain to who is mixing your paint that you need it to match and your situation. You could blend into the fenders quarters for the trunk and hood match, but then thier really isn't much more to paint to do the whole car. A ground effect down low on the car a little mis match isn't going to be as noticeable as the top panels which are large in up high, even though panels side by side a mismatch is usually obvious, say like a fender that doesn't match the door. Arghh, don't remind me of welding spoiler holes shut. Put a funky looking wing on a cavalier and welded up the stock spoiler holes. Got them all welded pretty nicely, got to the very last one right in the middle of the deck lid which was also one of the smaller holes to weld. The sob warped the deck lid and had to pry back out and get rid of oil can. Can they make some of the sheetmetal on those cars any thinner?|
|02-04-2006 08:18 PM|
|STATUTORY GRAPE||I've taken the gas tank door off before and had them match that color to the paint I needed. If I have them match the color and also blend it to the fender, it should be real close. This is on the car that I'm painting the fiberglass body kit so I'll have to match the lower 1/3 of the car to the rest of the car also. That will prove to be a different story than simply blending to a fender. Would it be a good idea to "mask back" or tape the paper down and pull the paper back (up from the body kit onto the body of the part thats already painted) with a big bow in it so I don't get a hard line in the clear, then blend it onto the rest of the body? I have to paint the trunk lid also (there was a wing that was removed and there are holes to weld shut) so I might just paint that separate and see how the new paint color matches, that way if the new color doesn't match,,, the trunk lid would be easy enough to re-do and I can tweek the color for a closer match. Then,,,,if the color matches without any difference to the rest of the car,,,,I could paint the body kit without having to do any blending since the body kit is separate from the actual body and there will be a separation between the kit and body to mask off from. By the way Kenseth, thanks a lot for all your advice in the past,,, you really seem to know your bussiness|
|02-04-2006 03:30 PM|
|kenseth17||Real easy to blend Grape. Paint the hood on the car, although its a bit more time due to the masking you will have to do then if you painted just the hood alone by itself, its less time then if you had to redo it, or not satisfied with the results. Real easy to do, when you paint the hood just let your paint drift over to the fender top when you are painting it. Take a look when your base is on and see how it looks as far as match and how good the blend looks. After you let the base sit awhile, maybe an hour just to be safe, but still well within your time window, you can even wet the fender with a water on a chamois to somewhat simulate what it will look like when cleared. Just don't use a w&G remover or solvent, as it will likely take the base off. Not really necessary to do if you have a fairly good eye, but something you could do. A knowledgeable paint guy can choose the proper forumula and tint if necessary and get your base pretty dang close, but this is not what you normally find behind most counters. You give em the paint code and they will just mix up the first formula and not look at alternates or varience cards and match to a sample you bring to them. Some colors are still a bear for them to match, and by blending your chance of match will be much better, since the eye won't easily pick up the transition between the new and old color like it would if you painted just the hood. I would take in a sample to the paint store and find a guy with some experience mixing if you planned on painting only the hood.|
|02-04-2006 02:57 PM|
|STATUTORY GRAPE||That makes good sense. It seems like it should be easy enough to blend the top of the fender. I haven't done too much blending yet but I'll probably try it.|
|02-04-2006 01:32 PM|
|kenseth17||I doubt they will, and the clear vs no clear is gonna make it look a little different too. I would use bc/cc and possibly wetsand down the fenders and blend the base into the top of them also and clear hood and fenders. I've heard some people on here they will paint jambs with ss and bc/cc the outside, but don't think I would attempt to panel paint an outside panel with ss on a bc/cc car.|
|02-04-2006 12:23 PM|
Is it possible to match single stage colors to 2 stage colors?
I going to paint a hood and was wondering if it's possible to match an acryllic enamel (green) to a BC/CC (green)? Can paint shops match it this close or should I just use BC/CC?