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Heating a cinderblock garage

17K views 23 replies 11 participants last post by  workingclass 
#1 ·
Just wondering if anyone had ideas about heating a 24x24 cinder block garage. Thinking about a wood burning stove and drywalling the ceiling and adding insulation but currently running a propane torpedo heater that just kicks out the fumes. I love wrenching on my ride but not gonna die for the cause. :drunk:
 
#2 ·
Not to mention propane is absurdly expensive now.

Yup, insulate and burn wood. I've heated exclusively with wood for 25 years and wouldn't heat any other way. I'm partial to cellulose fiber insulation, lots of it, but anything would help. Don't forget the vapor barrier between the drywall and the ceiling joists. And for added insulation, glue some styro to the outside walls and stucco over it. It'll help keep you nice and cool in the summer, too.
 
#3 ·
When I built my garage I poured vermiculite into the block cavities before the roofing trusses went on. That stuff is a bit messey but it sure insulates the walls well. I used kb board on the ceiling instead of drywall (easier to work with plus added structural strenght to the roofing frame. Had 6" blown cellulose added above the ceiling.

I use a standard wood stove to heat the building (2400 sq ft with a 16' ceiling). If I burn it round the clock, it keeps the building around 50 degrees during periods of sub 30 degree weather outside.

Meteor
 
#5 ·
I have the same size garage and utilize both methods that you have listed. I have the torpedo propane heater that I will use if I am only going to be out in the garage for a short period of time. Last winter I purchased a wood burning stove that I now use if I plan on spending a couple of hours in the garage. The stove works great but it takes a little time to get up to a good comfortable temperature.
 
#6 ·
I switched from a wood burning stove to a natural gas forced air with a T-stat. the wood stove was nice if you have the time to wait for the heat to rise. With the cost of wood, its not much difference from N Gas, I bought a new furnace for under $600.00 about 9 years ago and have used it ever since. I would do as the rest has suggested, insulate the walls the best you can, definitely insulate the ceiling. make sure your door seals are in good shape also. If you check around with any apartment building that have replace furnaces lately you may be able to pick up a used unit for cheap or free.

Steve :welcome:
 
#7 ·
I thought about heating the garage with natural gas also but I can get wood from work for free. Either way, I need to get started weatherproofing it in the spring so I don't have to spend all winter working on my house.LOL Not to mention possible layoffs at the shop. Would you recommend some kind of foam to attach to the garage door or anything else to put over it?
 
#9 ·
workingclass said:
Would you recommend some kind of foam to attach to the garage door or anything else to put over it?
I would if its just the metal door, I would go to your local Home Depot and pick up some rigid insulation board (the pink or blue stuff) and fit it into the door panels of you door.
My grandpa had a cinder block garage with a dirt floor, he did heat it with a wood stove, but that was many years ago.
Hay I see your in Redford, I have a repair shop in Northville.

Steve :welcome:
 
#12 ·
If you are going to heat your shop with a wood stove or natural gas furnace try to supply it with a fresh air source to the firebox. No use sucking in cold air through the cracks around your doors and windows and using your already warm air to feed the fire. An insulated pipe to the front of your fire box will work. Make sure you have a flapper valve on the intake of the pipe which will close when your heating source is not in use. You could use one from a clothes dryer vent except install it backwards.
If you can find a natural gas furnace from a mobile home they have their warm air outlet on the bottom and it heats the floor area first before the heat rises; unlike a house furnace which has the warm air outlet at the top and you heat the ceiling first and then slowly the heat gets down to where you are working.

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#14 ·
fat freddy

get a old mobile home furnace they run on oil or kerosene, they hat up fast and blow the heat aound. I use a wood stove cause i have woods to cut.
i use a propane for the initial blast of warm air. while the stove makes heat, and if ya can afford it insulate.
don't for get south facing windows help get 'er warm in the mornin' ya can get some cheap foil and foam insulation panels at home depot for about 10 bcuks a sheet with a 6.6 rating and the foil will spread the light and reflect the heat around.
I did my roof inside with it and i live where cold is cold, and the sheep don't sleep.
 
#15 ·
workingclass said:
Cool, I thought I was going in the right direction for once. :thumbup: By the way, what is KB board and roughly how much would it be to spray the cellulose and is it something I could myself? Thanks, you guys are great.
You can definitely do it yourself. Check with whoever you're likely to buy the cellulose from- they often rent small blowers. Rental yards may have them, too. Should be around $10/day and you'll need it for a day. (BTW, cellulose spraying is a different and more complicated process for getting the insulation to stick to walls. You don't need it for your ceiling job. Just so you're asking for the right machine.)

You might also check around with local insulation companies- they buy their insulation at bulk prices and sometimes can sell it, installed, for less than you can buy it.
 
#18 ·
Sorry Workingclass,

I called it KB board but I think the proper term is OSB board. It is basically a plywood board made out of large wood flakes and resins. Some people say OSB is better and stronger than plywood and some say it's not, but it is used by a lot of quality building contractors in place of plywood. I don't recall what it cost to have that cellulose blown in but you can price it at your local materials supplier and maybe Home Depot.

Neil is right, you can actually de-bag the the insulation and spread it manually. If you don't mind climbing through the trusses and be sure to wear a very very good quality dust mask. You don't want those to expose your lung tissues to the fibers. I would talk with some experienced people before I tried it manually to decide if the cost savings are worth it.

Meteor
 
#21 ·
Workingclass...if you care about such things, your homeowners part of the policy regarding the garage will be VOID if heated with a woodstove and used for automobiles of any kind should something bad occur. Since you live in a suburban area, I assume your house is nat'l gas. I ran 150' of gas line and fittings to hook up my overhead unit heater in the barn. All in the heater, fittings and Tstat cost me less that $300. I bought a 175,000 BTU unit heater for $100, the rest was trencher rental and supplies. I'm certain you wont have that much problem since I'd bet your garage is pretty close to the house. One gasoline leak can ruin you whole day! FUMES LAY ON THE FLOOR. BE CAUTIOUS OF WHAT YOU USE FOR A FURNACE. That's the reason I prefer to have a hanging furnace. Some UL safe units are available for such uses. If cost is the primary issue, don't forget the cost of your largest investment. At home decades ago we installed one in a 32x22 garage and it still works very well. Anyone in the heating and cooling biz can help you "certify" a decent furnace installation to keep your policies in effect. Good luck with your choices, just some things to think about.
 
#22 ·
I have a 2 car cinderblock garage that I used to use a wood stove to heat.I was getting skids for free so it was really cheap to use . Just a lot of work cutting wood . I took it out because it took a while to heat up the place plus the mess. I now use a kero torpedo heater. It doesn't use that much kero to keep it comfortable. There is a small odor but I use clean kero NOT diesel fuel. When I get home from work I turn it on and go eat dinner so it's warming up everything;tools, car and all the other junk. The other reason is that if I want to use any solvents I just unplug the thing. You can't just turn off a woodstove :D
The stove is going to cost something and your time is worth something also
 
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