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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-04-2006 11:39 PM
Crazy Mopar Guy
Quote:
Originally Posted by hemicoupe
This question is for the people who have a 41 Plymouth coupe street rod. What are you using for a gas tank? I got rid of my stock one a long time ago because I thought it would be easy to find a new one. On mine, from the floor to the bottom of the trunk is 17 inches. The stock strap bolt holes are 16 inches front to rear. It's 44 inches between the spings. What is a safe distance from the tank to the road?? I sure could use some help here. THANKS!!!
I just made my own cell, it was the only way I could get the biggest tank in the smallest dimension.
I made it out of aluminum and had a buddy tig weld it, it has internal baffles and an integral sump.
02-15-2006 06:47 AM
Dutchman Here's a place to check,

http://www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com/catalog.htm

another place is listed in some the car mags,
Rock Valley Gas Tanks. They will custom make a tank for your needs.

Dutch
02-14-2006 04:31 PM
RPMs there is a tank on ebay you might want to look at

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-ga...spagenameZWDVW
02-14-2006 02:34 PM
farna Correction: I'm not going to modify a tank to fit my car! Nothing is anywhere near the correct size. Mines only 22" from front to rear (of car), 39" side to side, 7" deep in front, 4" deep in rear. Closest I can find if 24.5" front to back, otherwise it would fit. Since I can make duct work, I'm going to build my own tank!

I'm not sure how I'm going to seal the seams yet. They will be folded pocket seams, which don't have a lot of strength, but I'll spot weld every four to six inches just to be safe. I can put epoxy in the pockets before crimping, solder the seams after assembling, and/or use a tank sealer. The eopxy I think will be the best -- I know it will seal. Solder may not penetrate the pockets enough to seal, though I'm making it like an open tank with a top. So I could solder the lower seams from the inside (the ones that are most important), which would be more resistant to leaks. Solder joints can crack though, epoxy is much less likely too. I could also use something like the Hirsch Auto sealer and forget solder and epoxy, or solder/eopxy AND use the sealer. I'm going to use the rivets no matter which way I go. It will take quite a hit to burst a seam, but the sealer could break loose easier than epoxy or solder.

Oh well, I'll have time to think about it! I'm leaving a 5" spot along the front the width of the tank 3/4" lower than the top of the tank. That way I can mount the pickup/sending unit on a flat on top, and the extra 3/4" will be a nice expansion area. I thought about slanting this area a bit more than 3/4" (maybe a whole inch!) but the edge of the sending unit mount would be submerged for a longer period when the tank is full. So I opted to drop the gallon of capacity and leave the expansion area instead.

I'm also thinking about permanently installing the pickup tube instead of mounting it on the sending unit. I could then cut a large access panel on the top (above the expansion area) to allow changing the sock on the end of the pickup. Or I could install the tube and cut the access later if the sock ever needs replacing. The return fuel (this is for an EFI engine) and vent openings will be in the expansion area also. I'll likely install a baffle in the center, and one along the front edge about an inch tall to keep fuel near the pickup when low. Looks like I can make the whole thing from a single 36"x96" sheet of steel, though I may have to find a scrap for the baffle.
02-14-2006 08:46 AM
evltwin Make sure your gas tank is above the scrub line.
02-14-2006 06:11 AM
farna Try this site: http://www.1aauto.com/1A/GasTanks. Just go through and check tank sizes. Looks like a Ford LTD tank might fit, or a Dodge Diplomat. I wouldn't worry much about fuel filler location. I have no problem with welding on a brand new, never before used gas tank! So just cut and weld a filler where needed. Any muffler shop can bend you a filler tube, and you might get them to weld it on, though they will probably be leery of welding to the gas tank unless you bring it in the factory new packaging. There are no sealers in a steel tank, so nothing to worry about with the welding. I'm going to modify a tank to fit my car. You might need to make new straps, but some 20 gauge galvanized or "plumbers tape" works fine.
02-13-2006 08:51 PM
hemicoupe
40's Plymouth coupe gas tank???

This question is for the people who have a 41 Plymouth coupe street rod. What are you using for a gas tank? I got rid of my stock one a long time ago because I thought it would be easy to find a new one. On mine, from the floor to the bottom of the trunk is 17 inches. The stock strap bolt holes are 16 inches front to rear. It's 44 inches between the spings. What is a safe distance from the tank to the road?? I sure could use some help here. THANKS!!!

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