|02-19-2006 06:33 AM|
Its a labour i dont mind doing either, i was just wondering if i was slow at it or if its suppose to take time to do
My fender is comming along fine, thanx to your tips i'm getting much better results now
|02-18-2006 08:44 PM|
|Sixguns||Mikey, the fender is the right front from a 1936 LaSalle, it takes a very long time to do this but its a labor I enjoy doing. How is your project comming along?|
|02-18-2006 07:28 AM|
Yes, solid core wire is what i'm actually using, i find that with thin stuff and a tight fit, only minimal filler is required.
Today i'm going to try directing my heat not directly to my seam like sixguns mentioned. I am curious though, what kind of fender is that? And also if you dont mind me asking, how many hours would it take you to install 5 patches on there? Seems to me like a lot of work. I am just curious because i am new at TIG welding sheet metal and i know it would take me a lot of time to do so.
Thank you all, and if anyone else has anything to add up, feel free to do so!
|02-18-2006 07:13 AM|
|shine||randy gave me a great tip. use some of your wire welder wire instead of rods. melts way faster.|
|02-17-2006 10:12 PM|
|Sixguns||the hotest part of the torch will the part of it that is closest to your work, so as you tip the torch angle you will see where this is. if you are running the torch parallel [inline] with the seam you are putting the hot spot right on the seam and melting it. Try this, put the torch on the side of the new metal that is your patch and place the torch "handle" at a 90 degree angle from the seam, now tilt the torch back ,this way the hot spot will be on your new metal, with about 45 amps max set on your machine strike the arch and immediately put filler rod in the flame, keeping it more to the old metal side drop a ball of filler with low amps you are controling with the pedel, when the ball drops apply more heat till it flows out and then stop. and go to the next spot on your patch. you should do spots at first, later you can run a few beads in a row. I have found that with sheet metal you throw out all the rules about making a puddle then sticking the rod in it... hope this helps. here is a fender im doing right now, it has 5 patches on it..|
|02-17-2006 08:19 PM|
Tig welding sheet metal
I am having trouble with my High Frequency TIG setup. I'm welding in patch pieces to my fender, it's thin material so i have my voltage and amperage on the low side. I tried raising it but i kept melting holes trough the metal. Because i am working with low current, i have to keep the tungsten and the rod close to the work, but this causes my tungsten to get contaminate with molten metal. So what am i doing wrong?