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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-04-2006 10:39 AM
roddinron
Quote:
Originally Posted by HUH?
Muratic acid is a cheap, available, effective and slightly dangerous rust
remover for small parts. It is sold is hardware stores for swimming pool
and concrete cleaning. Wear protective clothing. Use a plastic container.
Use diluted muratic acid. Pour in the water first, then add the acid, then
dunk in the parts. Store in a safe manner. Do not store near ANYTHING that will rust!

Use at your own risk. I take NO responsibility for this advice.

http://www.picturetrail.com/yelrah_dave
I reject your reality and substitute my own.
Well said, I was going to suggest it also, since I use it myself, but am always reluctant to suggest it to someone I don't know. Nice thing is it's cheap enough that you can buy a couple gallons and pour it into a PLASTIC pan like a oil change pan or something and just set the parts in and let them soak for a while. It gets into nooks and crannys where brushes can't go. Do it in a well ventilated area, and where it's safe from kids and pets, and just be careful.
02-27-2006 06:20 AM
farna I've had good results from a product called "The Must for Rust" available from K-mart and Wal-mart. Good on light rust, that is. The main ingredient is muriatic or a citrus based acid, I forget which. It leaves a white phosphur rust inhibiting coating that can be painted over. I used it for surface rust on a car after going over it with a wire brush wheel then 80 grit sand paper. This stuff lifted and cleaned the remaining rust and was relatively inexpensive.
02-26-2006 07:57 AM
trees There is nothing magic about rust removers. Most of us deal with Iron Oxide (Fe02) which is rusted iron(steel). The rust remover is a chemical designed to neutralize the FeO2 through chemical reaction. Those that took basic high school chemistry years ago learned that X amount of chemical A mixed with Y amount of chemical B would create a neutral solution. The rust removers could be Chemical B and your rust problem is Chemical A. You apply the rust remover to your rusted part as per instructions and when time is up, you still have some rust remaining and say it did not work well. It really did: there was just too much rest present for the amount of remover applied so you must repeat the process until all the rust is gone. To save on the over priced rust remover, you need to remove as much rust as possible through wire brushing or some other abrasive before applying the rust remover. Applying more remover to heavy rust is a waste because it will run off vice penetrating deeper.

A couple of other things are important when using rust removers. Always rinse liberally to kill all the chemical reactions. Dry as quickly as you can and add some sort of protectant as soon as dry. This fresh new metal starts the rusting process (combining oxygen in the air with the iron in the metal) immediately. A good rust inhibiting primer will kill it and seal out the air so it will not come back to haunt you. Always wear goggles or at least safety glasses when using the chemicals. Also, have a glass full of clean water available to rinse your eyes if you happen to splatter the least droplet in an eye(s).

As a side note, the reason for the wide range of costs for rust removers is usually in the concentration of the real chemical that attacks the Iron Oxide so read the labels that tell you the % of the contents. I can't remember the specific chemical you look for and would have to look on my Rust Mort to remember. Getting old is not for the weak.

Trees
02-25-2006 09:42 PM
home brew Molasses - used for livestock feed, not your kitchen molasses:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/rust...light=Molasses

Another set of posts about rust removal on this site:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/secr...light=Molasses
02-25-2006 09:04 PM
HUH?
Rust Removal on the Cheap

Muratic acid is a cheap, available, effective and slightly dangerous rust
remover for small parts. It is sold is hardware stores for swimming pool
and concrete cleaning. Wear protective clothing. Use a plastic container.
Use diluted muratic acid. Pour in the water first, then add the acid, then
dunk in the parts. Store in a safe manner. Do not store near ANYTHING that will rust!

Use at your own risk. I take NO responsibility for this advice.

http://www.picturetrail.com/yelrah_dave
I reject your reality and substitute my own.
02-24-2006 06:19 AM
TheHarleyMan2 I came across this stuff on a weblink when I was searching for some rust eaters. I am going to get me some and try it out on some small parts and see how it works, but being I will be out of town for 2 weeks for a motorcycle rally that I will be working at, I won't have any reviews for any of you until mid March.

http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-Gallon-P1C1.aspx
02-22-2006 05:20 PM
matt167 Do you have a die grinder, if so get a 3M rollock abrasive disk kit, there inexpensive, probably the green would do ok ( second most abrasive ) but the brown ( most abrasive ) would be best, wiz it up quick, you probably could do a lot of hubs with 1 disc, also great for gasket scraping, and grinding welds. we use them at school, and I have a set at home
02-22-2006 04:16 PM
home brew
Magic rust removers?

Have you ever heard of electrolytic rust removal? Check out this site. I have not used this process but it looks good and it sure would be cheap.

http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html

Picklex makes another product:

www.picklex.com

So does Zero Rust: www.zerorust.COM

Ultra One also makes a product:

http://www.safestrustremover.com/default.asp

I haven't tried any of these products but they have been talked about on various boards and the users praise them.

For the little bit of derusting you have I would just go ahead and use naval jelly. Buy locally and not have to wait for shipping and no extra shipping charges.
02-22-2006 03:51 PM
35WINDOW I have used the Oxisolv, and as far as I can tell it works as promised (desolves rust, leaves zinc coating)-be sure and use Thinner afterward-
02-22-2006 03:23 PM
MI2600 A friend of mine who resurrects a lot of old frames and bodies said he's had problems with the performance of some of Eastwood's "rust" products the last few years and has stopped using them. Plus, I think their shipping is/was a little steep.
02-22-2006 03:01 PM
gavinpierce I'm not very patient either, just wondering if this stuff worth spending the extra money and shipping it to my house. I too have had good luck with eastwood products, but just a little sceptical when it comes to magic solutions in a bottle. Wasn't there some old saying in the car world that went something like "Nothing out of a bottle ever fixed anything in a car"? As for removing rust, I think we all are looking for the easiest method with the least cost.
02-22-2006 02:35 PM
65Stanger they're both really good. Eastwood has a thing that's like jb weld (in the fact that you mix it and it does what it's supposed to do, doesn't comeo ut of the bottle ready made), and it works really well. Eats the stuff up. I like naval jelly too, but man, I don't like waiting and waiting and waiting......
02-22-2006 02:32 PM
gavinpierce Navel jelly is the way I have always done this. I was just wondering if this Eastwood stuff was some kind of magic in a bottle. I'm pretty sure nobody here enjoys cleaning rusty parts. Has anyone used this Easwood product and navel jelly to compare the difference? I did notice that Eastwoods product does come in a jelly form, which leads me to believe that they are the same thing. Other than the price of course.
02-21-2006 09:28 PM
home brew
Magic rust removers?

I've used naval jelly too. It works and is relatively cheap. I don't know how bad your drums are rusted but if you use a wire wheel on them first and then again after you've coated them they should come out great for what you need.
02-21-2006 09:01 PM
65Stanger http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...ORY&itemID=372

Eastwood is good stuff
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