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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend> HELP WITH B&M SHIFT KIT/TURBO 350
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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-07-2006 10:08 AM
jvsutton Yea I know I will still have to mess with the check balls. I just meant I don't have to worry about them falling out while I'm removing the valve body. Because they are inside the valve body. I have to take it apart to get to the check balls and gaskets and stuff.

Jason
77 f100
04-07-2006 09:57 AM
intimidator3 You will still need to be concerned about the check balls as you will need to change the valve body gaskets, you will probably only need 1-2 of the balls depending on what shift quality you want. Most of the kits come with a new spacer plate, gaskets and balls along with a new plate at the rear of the the v/body.

Jack
www.*.com
04-07-2006 09:54 AM
jvsutton Mine is a rebuilt one. It was rebuilt a few years ago and has less than 6,000 miles on it. Before I got the truck my dad drove it back and forth to work and that is it, 6 miles a day. He got a new car so then I got the truck and started working on the engine trying to get it stop leaking oil, but it gave out and cracked the block and sent the #3 piston up the cylinder sideways. So I pulled a newer 5.0 from a grand marquis and rebuilt the engine over a period of time and so the truck did not get driven for a while. So I shouldn't have a problem, I HOPE!

Jason
77 f100
04-07-2006 09:45 AM
leejoy
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvsutton
Thanks for the update! The being able to feel a difference was the main thing I wanted to know, along with ease of installation. I am going with the B&M because of the price, I've heard the transgo are somewhat better but I just don't need to spend $89 bucks on a shift kit.
I know mine is different in that the valve body is totally self contained so i don't risk any check balls or anything falling out when I take it out. And as for the Crossmember mine is not going to be a problem I don't think. Thanks again for the update.


Jason
77 f100
Jason

I am anything but a automatic trans expert, but remember that the trans must be in good shape to expect results. I was told that a trans with wornout clutches, bands, plates, etc may see only a slight or no improvement. However, the trans I have is a 69 or 70 model (very old) which was probably never rebuilt and it worked well. So good luck.
04-07-2006 09:33 AM
jvsutton Thanks for the update! The being able to feel a difference was the main thing I wanted to know, along with ease of installation. I am going with the B&M because of the price, I've heard the transgo are somewhat better but I just don't need to spend $89 bucks on a shift kit.
I know mine is different in that the valve body is totally self contained so i don't risk any check balls or anything falling out when I take it out. And as for the Crossmember mine is not going to be a problem I don't think. Thanks again for the update.


Jason
77 f100
04-07-2006 09:13 AM
leejoy
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvsutton
I've been watching this post because I plan on putting the B&M shift Kit in my C4. I know the C4 is different but I wanted to see if you had finished it and drove it yet to know how if feels. I plan on using the Street/strip set up in my truck since it's not going to be used a truck and its not my daily driver.

Jason
77 f100
Jason

You are in luck. I finished the job, test drove it, and observed a noticeable improvement. I am happy with the kit so far. I only drove it for like 10-15 minutes around the neighborhood and got about 3 or 4 chances to really step on it (without getting busted) and feel the difference. I got my kit on sale somewhere for only $25 on the internet. There's another kit out there from Transgo also. It was not hard to do even with the trans installed in the car. yes it takes time and is very messy but if you plan and prepare properly it's not that bad. the instructions from B&M are ok, not perfect. Go ahead and do the kit and contact me with questions you may have or if you need help. You will also need to add 5-7 quarts of new trans fluid when you are done because that's how much you will be draining out. B&M recommends their "trick shift" ($6/quart) fluid or Type F. If you have a digital camera like I do, take photos of the disassembly process as you go so that when you reassemble the valve body, detent valve linkage, manual valve linkage, seperator plates, bolts, etc, you will have photos to guide you. also take note of the check balls - quantity and location as you remove the valve body and drop it down. when you drop the valve body you will see the check balls sitting in their locations in the seperator plate gasket. you will only use 1 of them typically with the new kit however. one of the biggest problems I had was with the new trans pan gasket. I had to remove the crossmember for the trans support to get access to the gasket and it's bolts. Hard to explain but basically the crossmember was in the way. I recommend moving it before you begin the project. that itself may take an hour or more. It only has to be moved an inch or two and remember it is still supporting the trans so DONT remove it - just slide it over a bit with a hammer. You will have to remove the trans to crossmember mounting bolts also. Your vehicle may be different. Mine was a 72 Nova.
04-07-2006 08:54 AM
jvsutton I've been watching this post because I plan on putting the B&M shift Kit in my C4. I know the C4 is different but I wanted to see if you had finished it and drove it yet to know how if feels. I plan on using the Street/strip set up in my truck since it's not going to be used a truck and its not my daily driver.

Jason
77 f100
03-29-2006 05:58 PM
leejoy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theresa Shank
Sorry for late reply. Transgo kit involves taking out valve body and exchanging springs and a few simple parts. Kits with written instructions, video, color coded parts, 800# tech serviceline, tech service support from Sumitt Racing ( where to buy for less than $100.00). What it does is allow you to stay in any gear, manually, as long as you want. So you can shift like a manual transmission. If you put it in DRIVE it will shift like an automatic... Best of both worlds for cheap bucks. Problem with less expensive Shift Kits is cheap parts, little instructions, no help, limited results... but cheap price, You kind of get what you pay for... Transgo 2621 Merced Ave El Monte, ca. 626-443-4953.... THERESA
I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm 75% done with it now. leaving town for a few days. Should have it done next week.
03-29-2006 05:48 PM
Theresa Shank Sorry for late reply. Transgo kit involves taking out valve body and exchanging springs and a few simple parts. Kits with written instructions, video, color coded parts, 800# tech serviceline, tech service support from Sumitt Racing ( where to buy for less than $100.00). What it does is allow you to stay in any gear, manually, as long as you want. So you can shift like a manual transmission. If you put it in DRIVE it will shift like an automatic... Best of both worlds for cheap bucks. Problem with less expensive Shift Kits is cheap parts, little instructions, no help, limited results... but cheap price, You kind of get what you pay for... Transgo 2621 Merced Ave El Monte, ca. 626-443-4953.... THERESA
03-27-2006 06:15 AM
leejoy
Quote:
Originally Posted by sha_ba_do_bang
Sounds good, thats why we pull them out of the car to work on them, but it is a pain on the ground, so its pretty much one half dozen and the other.

Did you ever tell you what kind of vehicle?
Any metal in the pan? how does the fluid look?

Brendan
Well lastnight I had about 45 minutes to work on it so I dropped the factory valve body plate and gaskets, seperator plate and (4) check balls. So far so good. I also drilled out the (2) holes in the new B&M trick plate to 3/16" per their instructions. Then I went and read the instructions a couple more times for the next few steps so I understand what's going on. I finally get it. I am now ready to install the (2) new gaskets, B&M trick plate, seperator plate(s), and (1) check ball. I'll keep you updated.

The trans fluid oil plan looked pretty good. No signs of significant damage or deterioration. It was dirty but wiped off with a rag just fine. There was however a some tiny metal pieces in the trans fluid filter. Not that much. I am just going to ignore that for now because I am NOT pulling the trans and rebuilding it now - maybe next winter when it's stored. For now I'm going to drive the heck out of it since summer is coming..... The trans fluid looked good.
03-26-2006 11:29 AM
sha_ba_do_bang Sounds good, thats why we pull them out of the car to work on them, but it is a pain on the ground, so its pretty much one half dozen and the other.

Did you ever tell you what kind of vehicle?
Any metal in the pan? how does the fluid look?

Brendan
03-25-2006 09:36 PM
leejoy
Quote:
Originally Posted by sha_ba_do_bang
I guess i'll have to spell out my words around here, and i didn't want to come off like a know it all. I was trying to give him as much advice as possibly to maximize his potential for success. I think i built my first trans when i was 13, it was a 700. I started building a hydroplane when i was 10 and rebuilt and tuned the outboard for it when i was 14.

I realize you might not run them down with an impact gun, but people have, and you never know. I've seen multiple transmission rebuilds where the pump wouldn't lay flat (because the inside wasn't correct) and the tech just ran the pump bolts down and jammed it in and broke the pump and other hard parts. Unfortunately there are alot of hacks in this industry, the attitude of "just get a bigger hammer" is the worst. Why not just get it right and have the satisfaction that you put it together right. How many times can you not get the drainplug out of the oil pan because some idiot at walmart jiffy lube ran it in with an impact. There's my rant for the day.

About the inch pound torque wrench, if this is the only time you ever want to take your valve body out, you can just tighten it by hand. Having one does help alot in all aspects and if your a tool junkie like me its a cool addition.

Defiantly keep us posted on you progress.
dear shabodobang:

Well I'm moving along with that shift kit project on the Turbo 350. I just removed the detent valve clip, and then loosened all bolts on the valve body and dropped the valve body out. What a mess. when dropping the valve body you have to remove the "Z" shaped linkage clip that connects the valve body to the rooster bracket. I had to let it drip for 2-3 hours as it drained about half of the torque converter also before the dripping stopped. There is no such thing as having to many rags, shop towels, and cardboard for this job, not to mention 1 or 2 large (24" x 24" minimum) size drain pans and some empty 1 gallon plastic jugs with lids to dump the fluid into (about 6 quarts). My next step is to remove the seperator plate, then the main plate and gaskets (and check ball valves) I will keep you posted with my progress.
03-25-2006 09:24 PM
MAYNARDTRUCKIN Use Vaseline to hold in your check balls. The tyranny fluid will dissipate it and it causes no harm to the tyranny components.
03-25-2006 09:12 PM
Twistedwrench
Quote:
Originally Posted by sha_ba_do_bang
Yea man, i wasn't really offended, we are all here to help eachother

Brendan

Thank You Brendan, It is appreciated Troy
03-25-2006 09:08 PM
sha_ba_do_bang Yea man, i wasn't really offended, we are all here to help eachother

Brendan
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