|04-27-2006 11:47 AM|
|farna||Once you get into a specific EFI system you soon realize it really isn't complicated at all. Not as much "zen art" into it as tuning a carburetor and recurving distributors, that's for sure! Never mind that you can't change much on the factory EFI systems... you can "tweak" them once you figure out what they're doing. Crankshaft sensors can be moved a little, and a resistance or voltage changed here and there to make a big difference. Or go all out an get a programmable system and connect the laptop -- easy fuel and timing curve changes! But those systems cost $1000+ depending on how far you want to go. But try www.megasquirt.com (or search for Megasquirt) and www.sdsefi.com. The SDS system is one of the best DIY installer products out there.|
|04-27-2006 11:42 AM|
|04-27-2006 10:50 AM|
|xntrik||Cleanup on aisle 5.|
|04-26-2006 05:44 AM|
|04-26-2006 02:54 AM|
|IanRiordan||In the early 80s a co worker (the Bear) and I used to bet on how close to factory dwell angle we could get setting points by eye. Mostly within 1-2 degrees, I got bang on about a 1/2 dozen times. (M/Benz with the dissy up front) Just practise, nothing more.|
|04-25-2006 02:16 PM|
wow, young people like me can learn A LOT from this thread. they don't even teach my best friend how to recurve distributors in college for mechanics anymore; everything is all computer computer computer
UGH! I hate complicated stuff.
|04-25-2006 08:04 AM|
|farna||Like Ian, I set timing "by ear". Advance until it rattles, then back off 2-4 degrees, which is also done "by ear". I used to take a light and see what I had for future reference, but stopped doing that as well. If it pings later I just drop it another degree. This can happen not only with different gas, but under differing conditions such as altitude and temps. I used to change timing 2-3 times a year, but now I'm using EFI and don't need to.|
|04-25-2006 03:17 AM|
|IanRiordan||I used to 'power time' by advancing until it rattled uphill or 1 gear too high. 20 years on I do the same but retard 3 - 4 degrees from this as fuel quality is no longer consistent. I also run much less compression these days.|
|04-25-2006 12:46 AM|
Everybody knows that under light load an engine needs more timing, like with a vacuum advance can kicking in.
So if you time an engine with the vacuum line off, revved to 3000 or more, all you get is a lot of timing in a zero load condition that will usually give you detonation when you drive the car (load), and especially when the vac can kicks in another 13-24 degrees under a light load actual driving condition.
So, ya, I have seen it done for years, but with a marginal fuel octane condition, it NEVER works. That is, you are going to have to adjust it again to stop the detonation.
|04-21-2006 02:42 PM|
|04-21-2006 05:34 AM|
|04-21-2006 05:24 AM|
Back in the day we used to "power time" an engine. Once it is up to operating temperature raise the rpm to about 3000 and hold it there. Advance the distributor until the engine starts to misfire, then retard just a hair.
|04-20-2006 10:18 PM|
the only vacuum tuners are concerned with these days is BOOST...PSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
i like to set my valves to a vacuum guage. ive also set the timing and idle to vacuum also. never let me down.
|04-19-2006 07:48 PM|
|matt167||It does work good timing with a vac gauge I know a lot of people that do it, you have to use ported vac tho, not manifold vac.|
|04-19-2006 07:34 PM|
I think you would wind up with the timing way overadvanced.
Using vacuum gauge for setting idle mixture would be good though.
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