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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-01-2006 06:16 AM
adtkart I have not done a S-10 or full size Chevy truck hinges. We did have a job in the shop a few months ago. I was actually pissed when they gave the job to another tech. It was a job that, when looking at it on paper, looked real good. He was making big bucks on the repair, that is, until he got to the hinges. By the time he got done with the hinges, he actually lost money.

I would figure out a way to keep what you got somehow.

Aaron
04-30-2006 09:36 PM
oldred Sounds like it is even worse than I imagined With no visible weld I figured it must be welded from behind somehow but I never thought it would be this bad. I will definitely try and repair this thing first. Thanks
04-30-2006 07:33 PM
baddbob I agree with Brian, repair the old hinge if at all possible. Pull the pins and the door off the truck. Take a comparison measurement off the other side to the pin hole and try and get the bent hinge into alignment, you'll need to trial fit the door probably a few times before it's right but popping the door on and off gets easy after the first two times. GM sure screwed it up for the techs when they went with this design. Bob
04-30-2006 07:07 PM
MARTINSR Do you have new OEM hinges? They have directions on how to install.

I have to tell you, if these hinges are anything like the full size weld on, DON'T DO IT!

I am not kidding you, they are a total PITA, one of the worse designs I have ever seen. Those hinges are plug welded from the back with a HUGE 1/2" or so diameter welds. After grinding the weld off the front and removing the hinge you have to drill the four holes and then insert a stud that is on a "fishing line" spring like device thru a hole in the cowl up thru the bolt hole from the inside of the cowl side. Then, this stud is "supposed to" be pulled into the hole by the nut and sort of swedge into the hole. BS, the friggin giant weld on the inside prevents the stud from setting flat as it doesn't stay.

The book gave some ridiculas amount of time like four or five hours a hinge to install. I said YAHOO, I'm in the money, I will kick *** on this job. Yeah, RIGHT, it took me all day to do that friggin thing.

LEAVE THE ORIGINAL HINGE AND REPAIR IT. That's my advice.

Brian
04-30-2006 04:59 PM
oldred OMT, The fender is off and looking at the hinges there is no sign of a weld so no "landmarks" to go by. I was kind of puzzled by the lack of a visible weld since I know it is there and I did not know if it was spot welded or maybe slotted and welded. Oh well, I guess there just "ain't no easy way" and I will have to just shave the darn thing until I get it off.
Thanks
04-30-2006 01:58 PM
OneMoreTime
Door hinge replacement

Red

Sorry for the issue..First I would order and have in hand my replacement hinges as that will help visualize how they are installed..On ours an 88 they are spot welded on so it is a matter of some judicious cutting and grinding to get the old ones off..then getting them properly aligned again will be a bit of a zoo..having the marks tho will help in that area..I woudl suggest tacking them and checking the door alignment before welding the new ones up....

Having the front fender removed may help as well as you can line the door to the cab and then line the fender when it goes back on..

Good luck
Sam
04-30-2006 01:24 PM
oldred They are bent and I can't get the door aligned. This thing was hit in the fender, drivers side, with not much damage to the door or door post but the upper hinge took a lick that has it bent somewhat. Kind of hard to imagine how the hinge could be bent without harming the door but that is what happened. A steel bar on a farm tractor deeply creased the fender and went under the front edge of the door and nicked the hinge. Anyway it will have to be replaced.
04-30-2006 10:34 AM
1931 steve Can you just replace the pins and bushings with new? Or are they worn out and won't hold the new pins and bushings?

Steve
04-30-2006 10:21 AM
oldred
S-10 door hinges

I need to replace some weld-on door hinges on a 99 S-10 and since I have never dealt with these dang things before I need to know the correct way to remove them in order to do the least damage possible. Any suggestions as to proper removal/replacement will be greatly appreciated!

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