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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-31-2006 06:02 PM
hillbilly bob
power steering-need help

HI, I AM NEW TO THIS SITE SO PLEASE EXCUSE ME. I HVE A 1953 MERCURY CONVERTIBLE {1 of 8400 made} WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR IT HAD A 302 WITH A C 4 IN IT. I PULLED THEM OUT & I AM PUTING IN A 5.0 & AN-A O D TRANS OUT OF A 1986 MARK VII. I BOUGHT THE MARK FOR $50.THE MERC NEVER HAD POWER STEERING & NOW I WANT TO PUT IT IN WHILE THE ENGINE IS OUT.DOES ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW WHAT STEERING BOX I CAN USE? MY FRIEND HAD A 53 FORD WITH A 350 CHEVY IN IT & HE PUT A STEERING BOX FROM A 1977 TOYOTA IN IT {the engine was in the car when he did this} HE SAID THAT THE GUY THAT PUT IT IN HAD A HARD TIME WITH IT.AFTER IT WAS IN HE SAID THAT IT DIDN'T STEER RIGHT.I DON'T KNOW WHO THE GUY WAS THAT PUT IT IN & THE GUY THAT OWNED THE FORD DIED & HIS KIDS TOOK IT TO ANOTHER STATE SO I NEED SOME HELP PLEASE.
THANK YOU. BOB
02-25-2002 06:02 PM
Paco Thanks for the kind words about my Buick, I've spent 6 years working on it, driving it, and working on it some more. Made some major changes in 2001, most of which worked out really good. There are not a lot of off the shelf parts for a Buick on the market, you just buy something that looks like it might work, then adapt...cut to fit, paint to match is a good expression I found comes into play often. I have a LaCarra steering wheel on it( on a Caddy tilt/tele column) to match the grey UltraLeather seats, currently rebuilding the under dash and console area and will also be covered with the UltraLeather. Will eventually do the door panels when I have the time and money to buy more fake cow covering. Put a Dakota Digital cruise on it also. Complete new Master Power brake system, TCI rear suspension made for a 55-57 Chevy spring relocator system.(lots of cutting to fit and painting to match, but well worth it and it was almost like it was made for the car.) Tanks poly tank for a 41-48 Chevy, new GM crate motor with lots of polished and chromed parts and the ill-fated FatMan frontend we have been discussing. Tons and tons of things I have not mentioned or forgotten...and I will be up front and tell you I didn't do all of the stuff myself, I had help from lots of hot rod buddies who would come over and give me a hand when I needed someone to hold the lite in my eyes...could have never done it without them either, at least not in the time frame it all came together in. But what goes around,comes around, and I show up at their place to shine the light for in their eyes when they need it. Not too much on the car was farmed out, the first upholstery job was, and I still get the same guys to do stuff for me when it's above my knowledge or don't have the time to unscrew my screwups. Did the paint 5 years ago, and it's due again, but that's later down the road, maybe next year...it's almost cruisin' time now, no time for down time.
02-25-2002 02:55 PM
Phat Paco I just saw your car,THAT IS ONE NICE BUICK!!! You should be very proud of it. I just did something i hate (and dont recommend)I put a nova clip on a 40 buick sedan last week. I have to show your car to the customer.He will be in aw. One thing i did forget,it wont help much but the biggest steering wheel allways helps a little.(maybe a nice stocker if your not allready running one)
Phat
02-25-2002 09:04 AM
Paco Thanks, Phat, that gives me a starting point, and gives me several options from mild to wild to try. I figure it's best to start with the simplest and easiest an progress towards the full meal deal if the other doesn't have any effect on the steering. The car actually runs down the road straight as an arrow, handles OK, and drives really good...but the steering is as quick as a cat...and that can be dangerous. I have got to correct that, starting with the slower rack and working my way into the other things you mentioned.Thanks for the info...PACO
02-25-2002 06:24 AM
Phat Great You are your own builder!! Thats a good thing cause you will understand this better as you have installed it. Ok I find he has never left enough room for castor on his kits cause he beleives that ford did it correct(actully i dont think he knows how to check it or cares,cause i have disproved his BS about GM pumps having to much pressure by using ford pumps with the same results) Now if you had known you could have set the ride heights on the rear and front ,put a castor gauge on the clip before it was welded and tipped it back a little(as long as the lower a-frames are level to the ground,nothing in hot rod 101 says the frame has to be srtaight front to rear) before you go cutting anything see how much castor you can get(do you have gauges?? circle track guys allways have a set you should be able to borrow) I have on some of his clips sloted the upper holes a little but most times have had to cut the upper hats off.I beleive he thinks 2-3 degress is all the castor you need cause that is what ford used. I have corrected a few by just putting a lot of castor in them(please dont go more than 4 degrees on a manual as it will be real hard to park,6-8 on a power rack) I think that would be my first try,but in the end everybody has been happier with the slower rack. You could go one other route BUT i caution anybody doing this if your not a weldor DONT TRY THIS(bird**** weldors you will KILL yourself) I have preheated the steering arms and added 1/2 5/8 of and inch to the steering arm by welding them(also correcting for akerman at the same time because its wrong on a big wheelbase car compared to a pinto)Stringing the arms to the wheelbase.After you have lengthened the arms you most likely will have to move the rack out the same amount to keep the tie rods on level(bumpsteer) Try the castor first see what you can do. If at all possable lower the rear of the car with some weight or stuff,it will give you a false sense of what castor can do for you(it tips the tops of the spindles back)and take it for a ride. Also dont take it to and alignment shop and let them align it for a stangII or pinto ,make sure you see they are getting the full 6-8 degrees(its a real pain in the a## to do on the alignment rack) A good clue that it was not done correctly if he charges you 50 bucks and it only takes 1/2 -1 hour forget it!!!. It takes much longer to get it right,cause when you change castor,you mess up the cambor and toe also.So if the guy gets it done and asks 100 bucks dont be pissed at him ,he worked for it.Most machines have a print out now just ask.
Good luck Hope i helped a little.(sorry i cant spell worth a damn)

[ February 25, 2002: Message edited by: Phat ]</p>
02-24-2002 07:12 PM
Paco I think it's pretty safe to say that Phat don't like Fat...Man....I bought the Stage II set up with the tubular upper and lower A frames, optional power rack, sway bar, and GM 11" rotors, etc. I actually bought the restictor valve from Parr or somebody, don't really remember, but it didn't really help that much. I don't have a problem with removing the rack and installing a mid-90's version if that's what it takes, I made the rest of the car, however good or bad it may be, so one more part ain't no thang....it ain't brain surgery, it'll work or it won't...that's the way most of my project go. On the subject of getting 6-8 degrees of castor and having to cut a lot, I am assuming you have to cut the shock/spring towers and relocate those to achieve the needed castor, is that correct? Give me some insight before I break out the plasma cutter and start whacking...thanks, PACO
02-24-2002 09:16 AM
Phat Bomo is correct. Fat man has screwed up that frontend for years.But he gets to sell you all the valves and pressure "correctors" Only thing you can do now is take it to some one that knows frontends and cut up MR FAT MANS junk. Its needs to have a slower newer bird or mustang rack installed . The castor needs to be up around 6-8 degrees (last one i did on a 40 buick i had to do alot a cutting to get it right.) If you were to do a 40 buick again I cut the front off at the twin rails and weld 2 peice's of 3x6 tubing (i might be wrong on the size ,i did that one a while ago)in and then install a TCI coil over frontend. Its to bad Fat guy sells this frontend cause everbody has trouble with it. You next step is to forget FAT boy and go find a rod shop that dont use his junk. Get the guy to remove all the valves and add on junk.Than repalce the rack with a good newer slower rack,put 6-8 degrees castor in the car and it will be the sweatest drivin car you have driven.When you set the castor make sure all the tire pressures are set ,the tires are on it that you will run and the trunk has about how much weight you will have in it on a trip. Also if MR Fat sucked you in on the lower strut rod a-frames gey rid of them and go to a solid one peice front lower a-frame.Strut rods change a lot of geom as your driving and have no place on a rod to begin with. Hope this helps. Beleive me when i tell you there is no other fix,you must have some one change the rack for you(or do it yourself). I dont know how this guy stays in bussiness but chalk up another one to his great advertizing. Good luck man,NICE car also!!!
02-24-2002 05:14 AM
bomo i'm not sure how valid this is but i'm told that a later model rack up to 95 is not so quick in steering

bomo
02-23-2002 03:40 PM
Don Meyer Paco - when I installed my Heidts Muut II X-member in my Model A, I noticed that one of the holes for mounting the R&P was oblong. I called Heidts & they said it was for the newer Mustang R&P. I already had a Flaming River R&P, but I agree its Tooo quick. I also have this rack on a short wheelbase Shelby Cobr(kit) & it can get away from you in a heartbeat.........let us know your solution.......Don
02-23-2002 06:45 AM
Paco
power steering

OK, guys, here's the deal...'40 Buick Super coupe(think 40-41 Chevy,only heavier), fairly heavy car at about 3500lbs, small block 350, FatMan complete stage II front stub assembly, Mid-80's MustangII power rack, GM power steering pump from an early '70's Caddy, already installed the aftermarket "valve" to slow down the steering and correct the pressure from the GM pump to more match the Ford power rack. It's better, but still steers too much like a go cart...way too quick for me. I don't want to run manual steering on this car, it is not a "hot rod", it a cruiser with all the bells and whistles made for doing the hi-way thang, not the drag strip and I don't like to wrestle the steering in close quarters. Anyone have a clue what to do next to make the steering more user friendly??? Is there any way to adapt the new style "assisted steering" set ups like on vehicles now or is that type steering a computer related thing? The assisted steering style works like power steering at slow speeds but with more speed, the steering reverts back closer to a manual model..it has "computer controlled" written all over it, maybe someone knows for sure....PACO

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