|02-23-2009 05:03 PM|
I haven't used it, other then there cheapo line.
There is one jobber here that handles diamont and glassurit, but have yet to ever use it, even growing up the next door neighbor was a rm paint rep, but never used it. I have heard good things of those lines though. PPG and Dupont seem to be the biggest and in most use around here though. Back when I painted in shops, the ones I worked at used dupont (pretty much mainly chromabase), but I would usually buy ppg for whatever I shot at home.
If memory serves me correctly, I believe rusty (rusty428cj) uses diamont in his shop. And possibly jim (mrcleanr6) has used a fair share.
|02-23-2009 02:17 AM|
I think am going to go with PPG this time around. The thing is I need to find a PPG jobber that is around here without having to drive miles and miles. It seems that every jobber around handles DuPont. There used to be a guy up the road that handled BASF but he had to go out of business because of health reasons. Has anyone ever used the BASF product? According to him, that is what is on a lot of the higher end cars from the factory. He swore by the paint, but he was also a dealer in it so that would go hand in hand.
|02-22-2009 11:27 AM|
house of color ,boy do i feel dumb. thread still worth reading info still good,oldie but a goodie
|02-22-2009 06:53 AM|
Hok= house of kolor paint
old thread= thread started and last post in 06, until it was dug up from the dead recently. This is usually done by new members with few posts.
Indigo blue, I don't know if its the same color you guys are talking about, but painted a ricey spoiler and deck lid (welded up old spoiler holes) on a 2000ish cavalier a few years back. Called indigo blue pearl and I think I only sprayed 2 coats ppg dbc on spoiler and over grey primer spots on decklid. But cost was 80 bucks a pint for a friggen blue.
|02-22-2009 05:44 AM|
|02-22-2009 05:41 AM|
what u meen old thread?i hear that a lot,67 goat realy nailed it that ultra 7000 is some awsome stuff,id deffinently use it.been in the biz thirty years best i can tell everyone is youll get farther with many opinions and using your own head,save your lunch money your already in the right place.a pros a pro dont matter where they work never put all your eggs in one basket youll find something usefull in everyones opinion even the young gunslingers sometimes especially them some of us oldtimers are a little set in our ways stay open minded i learn something new every day especially now ive joined this site. am i doing something wrong i seem to always be on old sites,new to this computer stuff 2 months
|02-22-2009 03:25 AM|
Wow...old thread resurrected. Willwrk4pnt...When i painted it, I did not talk to any Chrysler guys, but I did talk to quite a few experts that paint show cars. They all stated that the Prowler Orange was a tough color to paint for the reasons I stated above. One guy had done his over the value shade of gray and he seemed t have the least trouble with coverage, but the color did not look the same as mine. One painted his over white on a '49 Ford and the color really popped. When I painted my inner fenders, inside of my fenders, the insides of my doors, and jambed it, I got good coverage in a few coats. I think it was because on the small parts, you could lay it on a little heavier. When shooting the truck overall, you are not getting the same mil coverage per spray so the base sealer showed through. And as I stated, everyone that I have talked to had the same problem with this particular color. All in all it took 1 3/4 gallons of base to do everything. I did notice though that when jambing the doors, that the paint actually had better coverage over the factory Teal color than it did the buff sealer. There was an area inside of the door that still had the Teal on the floor. It seem to cover that in one coat and at two coats was completely covered. So base color definately has something to do with it. I do know that if I had to shoot anything in that color again, I would experiment with a different base or more than likely go with a tinted base.
Deadbodyman......You are not the only one that thinks the Indigo blue is a bear. My large truck was basically the same color although I think the correct name for it was black sapphire. Almost identical to Indigo blue. The guy that shot it for me after I got hit complained from the first squirt. Just like shooting water with no coverage on it. The last time I talked to him, he switched brands of paints and has no problems now. So it seems it may be the DuPont paint. I don't know. But for the price of paint it pays to find out ahead of time so as to get your moneys worth. IIRC, the Prowler Orange was right at $700 / gallon. And depending on where you were the jobbers prices fluctuated quite a bit. Prices ranged anywhere from $85-$135/qt.
I don't know what paint is going for now. I guess I am going to have to stop in and see my jobber as I am planning on shooting my Jimmy this Spriing or Summer but I really hate to hear what the price is going to be. I am going to shoot it or at least planning on shooting it Viper Red unless I see another red that catches my eye. I'm just going to hate hearing the story as to how red is so much higher than any other color. LOL!!!
With the way that paints have been going up in the last few years...well decades really.....factory colors are just about in line with HOK paints.
|02-21-2009 01:53 PM|
|02-21-2009 01:20 PM|
Just a thought
a little professional advice can save you hundreds of dollars in the long run... when in doubt, ask those who have product knowledge beyond what you or your painters do...
Whenever i am going to attmept either a custom or factory custom color i always consult those who do it everyday and try to mimic their results! if you are attempting to reproduce a chrysler color then go talk to a chrysler painter! if you go to a chrysler dealership that has a bodyshop offer to take the guy out to lunch and bring a notebook... have all of the information handy such as the color that you are going to attempt to reproduce, the intended paint system, your sealer color etc.. etc... i would bet that for a decent lunch for him and his crew you would get a lifetime of knowledge and skill... he will probably tell you everything that you are going to need to know before you even purchase your base... if you want a professional result then you should use the materials and techniques that the professionals use to get that result... write everything down! what sealer he uses, the color of the sealer, how many coats it usually takes all the way down to the clear!...
in most cases he's got a couple of sprayout books and right on the back of each of those cards is a paint formula! most painters even jot down notes about coverage, tint, and even hang time and its all right there!
if you don't have any luck with that method of madness then contact a local jobber or paint supplier and they all usually have painters and techs that have run into the same issue... treat these guys well as they are the best of the best at their craft... these are the guys that we call when we have an issue....
|08-10-2006 12:31 AM|
I've had excellent luck with PPG and that PVE color... I did find a need to put down some kind of yellow/white to have a even ground and get it to hide well with 3 coats (or 6 passes) of DBU color to cover right. It was around $80 for a pint of color ...
in a nutshell . clicky .. ...
the long story ... ..clicky
|08-10-2006 12:04 AM|
Wow, it's so interesting to read all the different opinions on this subject. Now, I'm not an expert, but on a color like that it would not have been too difficult for me to decide what to do. Most paint systems have some solid oranges with decent coverage. If sprayouts of that pearl color showed poor coverage, in my opinion a couple coats of a good solid orange would have been the best bet.
I'm not sold on the idea of shades of grey providing easier coverage, not at all. I'm betting that is marketing sleight of hand, having sprayed so many letdown panels that show the exact opposite! When you get the correct solid shade under a transparent pearl or metallic color, it is sometimes possible to cut film thickness (coats) down quite a bit and still have an extemely close representation of what a full black-white coverage test panel looks like.
The paint I use has coverage issues as well, so I do a lot of this. Fortunately, there is also a primer line that enables the mixing of literally hundreds of shades of colored primer. Unfortunately, it costs about $2.09 an ounce to spray!
|08-09-2006 10:46 PM|
Ha Ha Ha!
Chroma-base, value shade, ... ... BOOOOO!
Guess you gotta use what you got!
Try putting a nice coat or two of white down for a ground. Treat the color like a tri-coat. If you repeat the same method on all your parts properly match should not be a problem. I've learned that yellows and oranges tend to lean towards green when you have grey showing through. I think your color will look nice and bright with a white ground coat.
|05-27-2006 04:45 PM|
|48cad||Kevin, I shot that orange with a Sata RP, I think around 30-32 psi atleast I inintially set the gun around there and fine tuned it by feel, like I normally do. I'm no expert, but have sprayed my fair share of vehicles. I dont believe it's your gun or setup. From my experience with dupont in that color range, I believe it's a dupont problem. That Prowler Orange and the Go Mango sure are hot colors though.. Chris|
|05-27-2006 11:49 AM|
S-W tint prime is my absolute favorite primer, period. Not only do you have a ground coat of a similar color it has a built in guide coat. If fills like mad and if the thing gets chipped down the road your primer under the paint is a similar color.
|05-27-2006 09:46 AM|
|outlaw17||I painted a jeep about 2 years ago in Prowler orange , it was with S/W Ultra 7000 , and it was over a buff primer , it was a bit tough to cover and took about 4-5 coats but after that it was good , Last spring I did a Dart in the Go-Mango (S/W as well) and I had put a tintable primer down in orange first and it was no problem covering mm see the pics below.|
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