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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-24-2006 11:41 AM
Stinkin_V8 I was afraid of the needle perforations becoming "tear along dotted line" kind of thing. I guess the right thread tension and stitch spacing will keep the thread from cutting it further.

My machine can take a twin needle but I can't find a leather twin needle. Do you think a Schmetz 6.0/100 would be good enough for a french seam?
06-23-2006 06:42 PM
creativeinteriors if you thread tension is correctly set it makes no difference with the exception of whether you have an issue with the appearance of the back tack. Lock stitch back tacking is the best way to insure threads are not going to loosen up over time.
06-22-2006 04:04 PM
Stinkin_V8 Hmm - I just read online that you're suppoosed to tie the loose thread ends together instead of lock stitching when sewing leather. Makes sense to me, does it sound right to you guys?
06-21-2006 04:20 PM
Stinkin_V8 Cool, I'll try the big gun and let you know how it works.

I tried the hair dryer on the leather as I was gluing, I dunno how much it helped. I wasn't sure about how long to heat it so I used a hair dryer instead of the heat gun.

And yeah, it's contact cement that I got, I scuff-sanded the foam and sprayed both parts when gluing. I won't tell you how badly it was sprayed out of that touch-up gun, though.
06-21-2006 01:12 PM
creativeinteriors No the glued panel isnt good for 5 days, sorry. Once the glue is down and dry its pretty much over. Trim and top is meant to be fairly heat resistant. heating will help to pull it off but it is not repositionable.

Too much glue will stiffen you up too. Are you making a spray pattern that is fairly loose (Large fan) in opposite directions on opposite panels? this will minimize the amount of air you need. I have a 5 gallon I use cause its mobile. A touch up gun is too small in my experiance. Get a quart gun and adjust the paint screw until it shoots it out like snot at about 40 psi. Then raise the air up until you get a fan about 3 to 4 inches. You want the glue to go on wet bet not soak in or thru. Put it on in layers like a cross. On the opposing panel rotate the cross patter 45 degrees. It will give you the best bond with the least amount of glue.

the glue if it is trim and top is contact cement. 2 sided and you should be gluing both sides. if you take a hair dryer and heat the glue side it heats out the solvents and softens the leather from the back side. And makes the stuff stick like a mother.
06-21-2006 09:40 AM
Stinkin_V8 I did one layer of 1/8", followed by another layer of 1/8" with the flames cut out. I was considering (as you suggested) not padding the inset flames at all, but I wasn't sure how that would look. I was worried about needing more padding on it where your arm would normally rest but it turned out exactly how cushy I wanted it. I used leather from the neck of the hide, seemed to be about as stretchy as I was going to get. Found a plastic coat hook laying around that I used to define the lines along the flames while the glue was still wet, it worked pretty well.

You mean I can still go back (5 days later) with the heat and try to force the contours of the flames?

I wasn't happy with the gun I used. It was a little touch-up gun with a little pressure regulator I mounted to it. I really couldn't get even coverage out of it, I wound up running it at 50 PSI, 40 was to globby. I'm going to try my bigger gun next time. That's a great tip about leaving the paint in the gun and taping off the hole. I'm definately going to try it after cleaning the gun once already. My little 3-gallon compressor wasn't keeping up, either - had to run to a friend's house and use a bigger compressor.

But all in all, it was a good experience. I didn't totally screw up the part, got a good idea how the cement works, I know how much I can stretch that leather now and I got a little practice. All thanks to some great advice from you guys on the board here.
06-21-2006 07:32 AM
creativeinteriors Dont go back now on the door panels so they are both the same. But on the flames I would have foamed only the outside surface and bevel cut the the pattern edges and left the deepest surface un foamed. That way you glue to a non-flexible surface (foam flex added to making the definition go away). If you use heat (carefully!!) and a fiber stick or a plastice knife with hockey tape wrapped over the handle you can heat and force the material into the corners.

But you did good keep up the good work. One thing I recommend about the gun is tape over the breather hole on the top of the lid and leave the glue in the gun. Wipe the gun tip with mineral spirits right after your done using it and it will stay trouble free for use even if you dont re-use it for weeks. Just remember to take the tape off the hole and shake it up good before you restart as the glue separates.
06-17-2006 02:42 PM
Stinkin_V8 I just wanted to say thanks for the advice. I tried an armrest first since it looked like one of the easier pieces:

I was hoping the flames would be a bit more prominent, but the amount I had to pull on that leather, there wasn't much left to dip into the contours. I haven't wrapped it around the back since it has to attach to another panel first.

I'm glad I went with the right glue, it sticks like nobody's business! The stuff I got from the local trim shop didn't need any thinning and was a bit more than I expected to pay. But still half of what the super 90 would have cost.
06-13-2006 02:02 PM
lowROLLERchevy good to hear you already did it

best of luck on the covering job
06-13-2006 09:44 AM
Stinkin_V8 LowRoller, thanks. I was assuming that was the case so all panels are sanded to straight, but not necessarily smooth. But it's good to hear it from someone else.
06-12-2006 11:14 PM
lowROLLERchevy you'll be happy that you picked up that spray gun

aerosol cans take forever to cover a large area, but a spray gun will cover the same area in no time flat

edit: oh yea, just mentioning it because it cant be overstated

pinholes in the filler / fiberglass are easily covered with no ill effects .... but BUMPS in the sufface are magnified, because a 2" round bump in the surface becomes 2.5" around after foam, and becomes 2.75 after the leather .... so sand out ripples in the panels just liek your going to be painting them
06-12-2006 10:57 PM
Stinkin_V8 Oh wow, six months? I was thinking "the end of the day" kind of thing. That's good to know, thanks! Just clean with reducer?
06-12-2006 10:46 PM
kristkustoms for a gallon id offer 20-30 bucks...i use cheap paint guns, 9.99-14.99 on sale at harbor freight. i never clean the guns, but they get used alot and dont have much time to sit around. they would last, i would guess, at least six months, but we usually abuse them and drop them alot, so they usually get broken or just too smashed up in about 3-4 months.
06-12-2006 08:50 PM
Stinkin_V8 Creative, you talked me into it. I have a small compressor and picked up a cheap gun. Next I'm going to see if the local trim shop will pour me off a gallon of glue for a slush-fund contribution. What's a good offer?

I was mostly concerned about the limited use the gun would see. I figured I'd spend more time cleaning it than I would spraying it. How long can I leave the glue in the pot?
06-12-2006 08:42 PM
Stinkin_V8 Changed the contours on both sides of the center section, sectioned the right side and moved it out more, changed to contours of the right side blend into the door panels, built the end caps, fiberglassed the plenum and vent ducting (in progress) to the underside of the dash, built the defroster recess, built the end caps to meet factory mounts. I opened up the instrument area, digital gauges ready to go in. custom vents. I'm conteplating sectioning the instrument panel hood, the steering column is not centered in there. But I'm close to upholstery so I don't know if I want to start cutting again. And since I didn't notice for such a long time, I think I'm just being picky.

Everything else is home-built but I'm keeping the factory door panels and rear panel as a base. The A- and B-pillar trim's been dyed and the headliner is ultrasuede. The rest of the car is stock for the most part. Aus stage II, 3800/4T60E, 17" wheels, power steering, custom fastback is being done on a spare rear clip, maybe for next year.
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