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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-11-2002 09:11 AM
solowookie well - I didn't have the knee actions (first year without them). however, the stop of the mounts were stretched so I removed them. I'll have to figure out / fab up some shock mounts on the frame somewhere.
11-11-2002 07:27 AM
Maverick Ok Ill measure it tonight when I get home and report back to you in the am. Brothers makes a kit that has the perches and u bolt and stuff to make the change pretty easy if the ones that are on the axle dont fit. They also have a traction bar system that I will probably go with thats pretty inexpensive. I just have to fiqure our a way to mount shocks to my frame since I had those knee action type, shouldnt be a problem though!

11-11-2002 07:13 AM
solowookie SJFast - I agree with you. however, this is always something that can be changed, and I have to agree to stay with the theory to KISS - keep it simple for my first project.

CenterLine - phat's a good guy, and taught me a lot. however, he does this for a living. he also thinks all work has to be as pretty as his. you've obviously been doing this long enough to know your welds are solid, if not pretty as pretty as he likes.

yea - you seem a bit paranoid to me, but hey it's you that's got to feel comfortable.

maverick - I got leads on 2 10 bolts... if it isn't too much trouble could I talk you into measuring your 10B flange to flange? if it fits that well it would give me a reference point to go off of. (and even pad to pad if possible) I don't have the origianl axle to measure (yes I'm an idiot)
11-11-2002 05:38 AM
Maverick Iam using a GM 10 bolt out of a '76 Nova. It fit right in the orginal leaf springs. The orginal spring perches on the Nova rear are right were they need to be to fit. The pinon angle may be off but that can be fixed with a wedge. Then you can go with a ladder bar and coilover set up. TCI sells a set up like this. Iam still amazed at how well that Nova fit just like it was made for it.

11-11-2002 05:25 AM
Centerline Yea, he gave me crap about my welding but I challenge anyone to lay a pretty bead using flux core wire. It's not easy and the only way to make them look good is to grind them smooth once your done. I don't use gas simply because I don't like the idea of storing pressurized gas cylinders in my garage. Everyone says its no big deal but in my opinion they can be dangerous. Maybe I'm paranoid but I even feel uneasy about my air compressor and I drain that every time I'm done using it.

<a href="" target="_blank"></A>
11-11-2002 02:11 AM
SJFast You want a nice ride and good handling. You put an independent suspension on the front. Why put an obsolete farm wagon rear suspension under it ?

11-10-2002 07:36 PM
solowookie well - that's 2 votes for leaf springs... heavy sway bar makes sense as well as the traction bars.

actually I had seen centerline's traction bar setup before (when Phat was giving him crap about how bad his welding looked :eek I'd kept the link to his page in case I decided to do a solid axle.

guess I begin looking for a donor vehicle for this.
11-10-2002 06:20 PM
WoodsEdge Run leaf springs with a heavy sway bar. Easy to install, cheap, and a good ride.
11-10-2002 05:31 PM
solowookie if your curious to look at the kit <a href="" target="_blank">here's the link...</a> TCI is usually pretty good about their products, and instructions from other peoples recommendations.

I think you are correct about keeping it simple. I don't have any idea which way I need to go. I need to keep things simple, but at the same time I don't want to pour a bundle of $$$ into the project, and not be happy with the way it rides.

I'm much more concerned with the overall ride then anything else. if I can get a decent ride from the springs, then I will probably go springs.

so - how is your ride with the springs on rear? with an IFS crossmember up front am I going to be decent?
11-10-2002 03:27 PM
Centerline Unless you're going to race the truck I would stick with the Jag or conventional leaf springs. There are new leaf springs available for your truck that require no frame mods. They simply bolt in. You would have to modify the spring saddles on whatever rearend you chose to use but that isn't a big deal.

I haven't looked at the 4 link you mentioned but I can almost guarantee that some frame mods will be required. I always caution a novice to keep it simple on their first rod project. So if I was you I'd go with leaf springs, but good luck whichever way you go.

<a href="" target="_blank"></A>
11-10-2002 02:22 PM
solowookie well - as much as performance or anything else, the ride is as important as anything to me. you mentioned that combination rides like a truck, and I don't want it to ride like a truck. if that's the case I need to explore some other options. look at total costs (also maintenance costs).

anybody have any sources where I can look at the IRS suspension? (installation, components that come with it etc.) somebody had mentioned regearing is only $50, and if it has disk breaks that would be a bonus.

TCI has a rear 4-link kit too (that I just noticed today on their website that is made for this app too). I'm sure there are better options, but for a novice it wouldn't be terrible to use it. it comes with instructions etc. that would almost make it a bolt in, and would require no frame mods. this wouldn't be a cheap option though.

don't know if I'm more decided now, or less decided.
11-10-2002 01:52 PM
SJFast If you go with the Jag there's nothing else to buy. It comes assembled in a crossmember with coil-over shocks, inboard disc brakes, and mechanical emergency brakes. You mount that crossmember to your rear frame and enjoy !
11-10-2002 01:19 PM
Centerline My fault on the previous post I said 12 bolt and actually meant 10 bolt. Big difference in the cost of those two.

I used Dodge Caravan rear springs on my 53. Cost me $40 at a wrecking yard. They are simple bolt on units and only require you to make one bracket and weld it to the outside of the frame rail. Combine this with a mid 70's Camaro/Firebird 10 bolt Posi and everything more or less just bolts together. You can run conventional traction bars or do what I did and design your own "Cal Track" type units. (Cal Track traction devices are used on a lot of pro street race cars. <a href="" target="_blank"></a>)

I chose a rear with drum brakes but they are available with disks and the mid 70's years are within an inch of being the correct width.

A four link is really not necessary for the street, unless you're producing mega hp. Its totally adjustable and was really designed for racing. I run a ladder bar system on my pro-street car (street rod not race car) which is similar to a four bar and the thing rides like a race car/truck. The four bar is a bit smoother but really is more than you need for a daily driver. If you're going to be doing any real racing though I'd use one.

The Jag suspension has disks and although the chunk is easily repaired the rest of the components aren't cheap to fix. Yes it's really beautiful but if I was going to go that far I'd use a Vette rear. At least you know that will handle just about whatever amount of hp you throw at it. Just my personal preference. The Jag will work. I just don't like the idea of using foreign car parts on a street rod. That being said my pro-street car has Toyota seats and my 53 pickup has a Mazda wiper motor.

If you want to see how I did my rearend then just go to my site and check out the 53 Chevy pickup pics.

<a href="" target="_blank"></a>

[ November 10, 2002: Message edited by: Centerline ]</p>
11-10-2002 12:28 PM
solowookie what about bolt patterns & rear disk conversions? if it's a dana 44 then I'm assuming it should be pretty straight forward.

would like to go 5-lug in case I may decide to tow with this etc.
11-10-2002 11:21 AM
deuce_454 the ring gear in the jag is a dana 44, and national drivetrain has a ton of center sections in 3,52 and 4,09 for 50$ a piece!! and i dont know where you will find a 12 bolt at that price... if you do be sure to let me know where and just for the record the jag handles way way better than the solid axle..
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