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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-19-2006 10:02 PM
colormecrazy Oh ya know that old debate!
08-19-2006 08:46 PM
302 Z28
Quote:
Originally Posted by colormecrazy
Ah yes, the Abralon, had to let that secret out, didn't you!

No just kidding, my boss thinks it's too expensive?
He doesn't think excess labor is expensive?

Vince
08-19-2006 04:09 PM
colormecrazy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 302/Z28
Block with 1000, 1500, 2000 then go over it with an Abralon 4000 DA pad. It will almost shine when you are through with the Abralon 4000 DA pad. If you still see sand scratches after buffing you are not doing enough finer grit sanding. After buffing with wool pad you can then work it with a Porter Cable orbital polisher with some final glaze. The Porter Cable polisher is not as aggressive as the buffer and you can work it longer.

Vince
Ah yes, the Abralon, had to let that secret out, didn't you!

No just kidding, my boss thinks it's too expensive?
08-19-2006 03:50 PM
302 Z28 Block with 1000, 1500, 2000 then go over it with an Abralon 4000 DA pad. It will almost shine when you are through with the Abralon 4000 DA pad. If you still see sand scratches after buffing you are not doing enough finer grit sanding. After buffing with wool pad you can then work it with a Porter Cable orbital polisher with some final glaze. The Porter Cable polisher is not as aggressive as the buffer and you can work it longer.

Vince
08-19-2006 03:32 PM
colormecrazy
Buffing!

I hate to buff! But I do it every day. As for sanding with 2000 only, you are not going to get as flat a surface with 2000. A coarser grit will give you a flatter surface. I use 1000, 1500, and then 2000 (with 3 coats of clear). Make sure you sand over your coarser scratches enough with the 2000. And well guys frankly patience, patience, and more patience! Devide the car up into 2 foot squares and do a small area like that at a time. Also the building up heat is not going to help. I just use 3M quik cut with a white wool pad then good ol Finesse it 2 with a yellow pad and then the creme de... whatever 3M Dark Foam pad polish with a dark foam pad. Be patient in the compound stage, it takes time to get all thse scratches out and more preasure won't help either you'll just tick off the body man with that. Once you don't see any scratches anymore then glaze over it all with Finesse gently then ever so softly drift over it all with the dark polish. Use just a sparing amount of the dark polish the less the better. Then hand glaze with the micro fiber, sit back, have a beer and enjoy the shine!
08-18-2006 10:26 AM
loyter
I'm no expert....

I'm no expert, but I did stay at a Holiday.....wait...but I am in the process of sanding and buffing a new PJ right now. I have found that each panel I buff with 3M Quickcut (I think that's the name) takes a long time. At first, I went all the way around the car only to find that I hadn't buffed nearly long enough, for in good lighting, the paint looks awful.

So, I am going around again and spending a lot more time on each panel, light to medium pressure, and letting the buffer do the work. I am getting pretty good results, but I have yet to get to the glaze or polish. But after just the quick cut, the paint looks nearly perfect.

I'm sure someone will tell me I'm doing it wrong, and I'll welcome any more knowledge I can get.

Oh, and by the way, I was using an air buffer, but my compressor couldn't keep up with it so I bought a cheapo $29 buffer at HF which is variable from 300-3000 RPM and came with a bunch of attachments. So far, it's been great. I'd buy a nicer one, but I don't buff much so hopefully it won't be getting a whole ton of use. It's so much nicer than the air buffer...well worth the price.
08-17-2006 10:47 PM
student blake what i do, ( don't necessarily take my advice cause i don't know if its right, but it works for me) is sand with 2000 only, it takes longer but secures my mind of scratches then i buff with a foam pad with Maguires scratch remover compound, then i use Maguires polish compound and i come out with a really nice glassy finish, people disagree cause i skip some steps but it works for me also i apply some pressure i end up slightly burning the paint when i apply too much pressure and i often see it later but thats an easy fix if its not to bad, hope i could help


08-17-2006 10:07 PM
hemi43
color sanding & buffing help needed

I know this has been talked about before, but I need someone to explain to me what I'm doing wrong.
I've been painting for years, but always found buffing a challenge.I'm in the process of color sanding my street rod, but I can't seem to get that perfect finish. Anyone that sees it think it's perfect but I can see the flaws in certain light conditions.
In the early morning when the sun is low, I can see dull hazzy spots as well as slight sand scratches. I have buffed this thing five times with different products, but still it's not perfect. The best results have been with Ferecla G3 and a wool pad followed by G10 and a foam pad.I then applied hand glaze with a micro fibre cloth.The paint is Chroma Premier base with 72500 Chroma Premier clear, which was applied about a week prior.I wetsanded with 1500, then 2000 first.What are the special techniques? Do I push down on the buffer to heat the paint? Any help would be greatly appreciated. BTW, I'm using an air powered rotary buffer which spins about 1800 RPM. Thanks,Dan

www.geocities.com/dantechfab

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