I wanted to run copper pipe around my garage for air lines but the more I think about it I don't think it would be worth the extra cost. I'm pretty sure now that I am going to use 3/4" galvanized. Harbor Freight has a pipe threader on sale for $19.99 . Has anybody here used one and if so does it work OK? It would be more convenient to have one while putting up the pipe rather than run back and forth having the pipe threaded. Thanks for any replies.
Made in China? You could always get it and if it doesn't work very well, you could always take it back. Some China junk works well while some doesn't. Guess I'll go over to the HF around the corner and see what you are talking about since I'm going to be doing the same thing soon.
Why not save the cost of the threader and apply it to the price difference to plumb the air with copper, the time savings alone will make you happier.
I've plumbed both ways and copper is the only way to go. I haven't used pvc but other people here have.
Why not save the cost of the threader and apply it to the price difference to plumb the air with copper, the time savings alone will make you happier.
I've plumbed both ways and copper is the only way to go. I haven't used pvc but other people here have.
If the price difference wasn't too great I would really like to go copper. I've sweated in several copper lines and know what I'm doing but I've never threaded pipe. The 3/4" galvanized at Lowes is 12.80 something and the 3/4" copper is 30.80 something for 10 ft. lengths. I may be able to buy the galvanized at a local plumbing store a bit cheaper but I don't think they even carry L copper and I think M copper may be too light. I'll probably need at least 60 ft. to do my job or maybe more. That would be quite a big difference in price and with all of the couplers I'll need would only spread the price out even more.
If nobody else has used the threader and I get one I'll keep you posted on how I like it. I've never used one before so I might not be able to tell if it is a decent one or not. My main concern is getting nice threads that don't leak and have one at my house for convenience.
If youll measure what all you need, you can most likely buy pre-cut pieces to do the whole job. I have access to a pipe-threader, but I didnt even need to use it when I plumbed mine. Personally, I like galvanized pipe, as its very versatile for adding on or removing, and if you clean the threads and use quality tape, you wont have any leaks. Just my 1½ cents worth.
I have a cheap threader ($29) from our version of HF (Princess Auto) it worked out well for my air line installation. I figured it would cost me $3 for every threaded end I needed from HomeDepot not including cuting down to size, cost wise it worked out.
Just remember to use plenty of oil, you don't want to make dry cuts. Lots of pressure while making the threads also. My lines work out to be around 60ft also.
The onr thing with PA, even though some of their stuff in made in China. :spank: They have a 100% satisfaction gaurantee, I could use and abuse the itam for as long as I like then return it for full refund. No hastles or questions asked.
copper pipe (in my experience) does not work well for airline. galvanized is the way to go. the compressor manual should tell you (mine did) how to plumb and what to use (as well as what not to use).that is just my 2cents
keith
If youll measure what all you need, you can most likely buy pre-cut pieces to do the whole job. I have access to a pipe-threader, but I didnt even need to use it when I plumbed mine. Personally, I like galvanized pipe, as its very versatile for adding on or removing, and if you clean the threads and use quality tape, you wont have any leaks. Just my 1½ cents worth.
It is not hard to thread iron pipe, like said above, lots of cutting oil, get a gallon.
Most china machine tools seem to work well, even name brands use china parts. Copper is too expensive and generally not recommended for air pressure it will corrode from inside. Put a few ball valves in line, and lots of "T's" with plugs so you can make new attachments later. You can also plan your runs to use pre-cut lengths and nipples as I have done many times. Use couplings not unions to connect your pipe joints, and a good pipe dope or Teflon tape to seal. Also blow the line out real well before you hook up tools.
I thought I'd get back and give you my experiences and opinion on the HF pipe threader. I wound up piping my shop connected to the garage and used more pipe than I originally planned. I bought 90' total and had about 4' or 5' left over. I threaded about 40 sets of threads and it wasn't extremely difficult but did take time. I went back and bought my last piect of pipe from a different place and it was made in China. It threaded easier and the threads looked better than the others. A good pipe vise instead of my bench vise would have made things easier. The threads I made weren't as clean as the ones that were on the pipe from the factory but I'm sure they had some very expensive equipment. I had trouble keeping some joints from leaking but I don't think it was the threader's fault because some of them were the factory threaded joints. I'm satisfied with the way things turned out.
If I were to do a project again like this I would go with copper. The extra work and time that it took was not worth it to me.
Danny
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Hot Rod Forum
2.2M posts
175.6K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to hot rod owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!