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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-14-2006 04:36 PM
MNFatz
Quote:
Originally Posted by elvis 66 chevelle
Thanks for reply, i use fram on my my wifes car........no more! first used Fram HP-4 racing filter on my SB Chevy 400 because my son uses these on his race car. I had hard time getting mine off, header and flex plate in the way!! From my research the best filters are .....1 Amsoil, 2 mobil 1, 3 K&N, 4 Pure One!! The only other problem i have is a long filter is very close to header, can not get a finger between filter and header!! Do you guys have this problem?? Does it raise oil temperture or do damage to filter it self?? Do any of you put heat wrap on oil filter? That is what i am thinking of doing because i don't want to go with short filter.

Doug
Here's a pic of my remote mount. I was basically forced into using this because of my setup. you could remount yours far from the header. Summit has a bunch of different adapters that might do the trick.

(click on the pic to supersize it)



-fatz
09-14-2006 01:07 PM
xntrik
Quote:
Originally Posted by onovakind67
The Smokey reference came with the text from Rousch. Perhaps you could enlighten us as to what exactly Smokey said, I read his book but I didn't memorize it.

As I indicated, they misquoted.

The best authority as to what ole Smokey said is Ole Smokey himself.

Smokey's SBC oil article also appeared in Engine Masters Race Edition last year.

EDITED I won't rewrite my posts.
09-14-2006 12:56 PM
xntrik
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcclark
With all the info available about oil filters I don't understand why anyone
would use a Fram, they're the worst.
Especially considering that some of the other really good filters are
about the same price. It's just not worth it.

I know lots of people that have used them exclusively and have never had any problems.

I have a beater 5.0 Ford with 247,000 on it with Fram every time (but maybe 2), and it doesn't burn a drop of oil (Mobil 1).

If you study what "race filters" are you might begin to question their viability for any situation other than "race and change the oil".
09-14-2006 07:02 AM
jcclark With all the info available about oil filters I don't understand why anyone
would use a Fram, they're the worst.
Especially considering that some of the other really good filters are
about the same price. It's just not worth it.
09-14-2006 06:43 AM
onovakind67
Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
Pardon me sir. That is partial mis-information and a misquote of what Old Smokey actually said.

I suggest looking up what Smokey Yunick wrote in HIS book about the small block Chevrolet.

He also emphasized that those pressure readings must be taken at the very END of the delivery system.
The Smokey reference came with the text from Rousch. Perhaps you could enlighten us as to what exactly Smokey said, I read his book but I didn't memorize it.
09-14-2006 06:18 AM
elvis 66 chevelle
Fram oil filter = lower oil pressure

Thanks for reply, i use fram on my my wifes car........no more! first used Fram HP-4 racing filter on my SB Chevy 400 because my son uses these on his race car. I had hard time getting mine off, header and flex plate in the way!! From my research the best filters are .....1 Amsoil, 2 mobil 1, 3 K&N, 4 Pure One!! The only other problem i have is a long filter is very close to header, can not get a finger between filter and header!! Do you guys have this problem?? Does it raise oil temperture or do damage to filter it self?? Do any of you put heat wrap on oil filter? That is what i am thinking of doing because i don't want to go with short filter.

Doug
09-13-2006 06:01 PM
MNFatz Don't ever, ever, ever use a Fram.

Fram Extra Guard

Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

Fram Double Guard

Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html
09-13-2006 03:31 PM
xntrik
Quote:
Originally Posted by onovakind67
A friend of mine at Rousch Racing sent me this


How much is enough? The rule of thumb: "10 psi for every 1,000 rpm", was originated more than 25 years ago by Smokey Yunick.


e."

Pardon me sir. That is partial mis-information and a misquote of what Old Smokey actually said.

I suggest looking up what Smokey Yunick wrote in HIS book about the small block Chevrolet.

He also emphasized that those pressure readings must be taken at the very END of the delivery system.
09-13-2006 09:25 AM
onovakind67
Quote:
Originally Posted by elvis 66 chevelle
My oil pressure gage autometer electric and warning light sending unit electric are installed on a T at back of block behind intake beside distributor on drivers side. my light comes on when oil pressure is below 18 PSI. So at 700 - 750 RPM'S in drive 17 PSI is ok??
17 psi is just fine at idle.
09-13-2006 09:15 AM
elvis 66 chevelle
Fram oil filter = lower oil pressure

How do you get that much oil pressure 30 at idle???

Doug
09-13-2006 09:10 AM
Jmark I've seen them live on less pressure, but in all the sbc engines i've built, I've never had one idle below 30 pounds. Even my last one still was up good and it was just shy of 200,000 miles when I pulled it.

Mark
09-13-2006 06:21 AM
elvis 66 chevelle
Fram oil filter = lower oil pressure

My oil pressure gage autometer electric and warning light sending unit electric are installed on a T at back of block behind intake beside distributor on drivers side. my light comes on when oil pressure is below 18 PSI. So at 700 - 750 RPM'S in drive 17 PSI is ok??
09-12-2006 04:16 PM
Jmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
I dare you to hook up your pressure gauge to the end of the oil gallery.

Hmmm, interesting suggestion. I have my Frantz bypass filter plummed into the front galley plug just up from the end of the cam. Might have to undo it from the Frantz and hook up a pressure guage and see what i'm getting. Would be interesting to "T" it into that line with the bypass filter hooked up and see what happens too. The orifice in the Frantz is .035, always wondered what it did to the oil pressure. My guage reads 40 at idle and 55-60 at cruise.

Mark
09-12-2006 03:07 PM
johnsongrass1
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve t
if you got a million dollars to use a product, you would use anything, but john is just a fast racer, hats off to him
Just cause the money comes from frame doesn't mean they race with hit.
I've got all kinds of sponsors that I don't use their products. They never said John, do you use fram filters? IF they do, it'll be a one application product that you can't get anywhere but john himself, much less any store.
09-12-2006 02:53 PM
onovakind67 A friend of mine at Rousch Racing sent me this on his recommendation for oil pressure on our road racing motor:

How much is enough? The rule of thumb: "10 psi for every 1,000 rpm", was originated more than 25 years ago by Smokey Yunick. Does that mean that because you think your engine will run 7,000 rpm you need 70 psi?

No. Recommendations also depend on application.
Note: All pressures are "hot" (ideal temp is about 220 F)

Street engines 35-45 psi

Street HP 45-55 psi

Racing (only) 60 psi

Pro, turbocharged 70+ psi

In the 1984 Power Manual, Chevrolet recommends 65 � 80 psi for racing applications. This means purpose built, trailered racecars. Bob Mainetti of Canton Racing was quoted in Circle Track (April �96) as saying: " At 6,500, you want 50 to 60 pounds. At 7,500, 60 pounds is plenty of pressure."
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