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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend> I pulled the first transmission(TH350). Now...
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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-28-2006 01:57 PM
Jmark Once it's in, put 4 quarts in the trans then start it up! Keep adding while idling until it reads full. May take quite a bit. Once showing full, go for a drive and then re-check again idling in park.
10-28-2006 12:46 PM
topdogger Alright, so all I have to do is hookup the new torque converter. Push it in all the way and give it a little spin until I hear it pop in? Then push it up against the enine and make sure the housing goe's flush against the motor? I've also heard you're suppose to load in enough oil so the dispstick shows full then disconnect the power to to distributor and turn the motor over. Thats suppose to spread out the oil Then keep adding oil. Is this true?
10-28-2006 09:59 AM
sha_ba_do_bang no need to fill the new converter, this has been discussed to death before

when installing it you have to make sure it is seated on the pump, you should push it it and spin slowly until you hear the clunk and it drops all the way in.

Never pull the trans to the motor with the bellhousing bolts(#1 newbie mistake) If the converter isn't seated properly and you pull the trans in with the bolts you'll prolly break off the pump drive teeth.

Brendan
10-27-2006 06:20 PM
topdogger BTW, I ordered a new torque converter for the new setup. How do I install this properly? I've heard you are suppose to fill the converter half full of oil before sliding it onto the transmission. Is this true? If so how do I stop it from leaking everywhere? I pulled the old tranny out a few days ago and left it sitting on the garage floor. My dad came home and told me I had a tranny leak as there was red fluid coming from under the garage door. Went out there and a 1/4 of my garage was in a pool of red tranny fluid. I don't want that to happen again... It all came out of the torque converter to tranny area and I'm not sure why but its all out now anyway.
10-26-2006 03:53 PM
topdogger
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmark
ROFLMAO!!! How true. I have 2, 24" extensions that I used to use on some top bolts back in my wrenching days.
Do you guys mean for the engine housing to tranny housing bolts? If so I found the box end of a wrench works perfect for tightning those bolts. On my car I find it all really easy to get at aswell. I have the passenger side header off and the driver side is really loose so I have no problem getting around it.

One of thing main problems I have right now is shifting issues. How much is a used rachet shifter worth? Are horseshoe shifters practical for an application where you have to shift in a manumatic style? I've never even shifted in a manumatic style with my currrent shifter because it would never go into first. Is it hard to setup a rachet shifter?

Thanks
10-26-2006 12:25 PM
Jmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1
6' of socket extensions help with the upper bolts or nut's.
ROFLMAO!!! How true. I have 2, 24" extensions that I used to use on some top bolts back in my wrenching days.
10-26-2006 09:56 AM
johnsongrass1 Four lenght's of 3/8x16 all thread cut into studs, or just real studs, will make lining things up a lot easier since you are limited on a tranny jack.

Cut a slot into each one so you can remove the thing after you get it in with a flat screw driver.

6' of socket extensions help with the upper bolts or nut's.
10-26-2006 09:44 AM
raidmagic
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66Caprice
I used brake lines to replace the trans cooling lines. The autoparts store had various straight lengths with the right fittings on the ends and it was just a matter of bending them in the right places and getting them in there. I found it easier to lay out the old lines and mark where the bends should be on the new lines and also made sure they were the right total lengths.
I did the same thing when I did the engine and trans in my Camaro. I didn't have old lines to go by so I had some trial and error to make them fit but it was pretty easy. Total cost was $15. $5 each for the lines and $5 for a cheap bending tool.
10-26-2006 09:28 AM
66Caprice I used brake lines to replace the trans cooling lines. The autoparts store had various straight lengths with the right fittings on the ends and it was just a matter of bending them in the right places and getting them in there. I found it easier to lay out the old lines and mark where the bends should be on the new lines and also made sure they were the right total lengths.
10-25-2006 10:15 PM
topdogger
I pulled the first transmission(TH350). Now...

Well as the title said I pulled my first TH350. It all came out almost perfectly. The exhaust on my car totally sucks so its all getting ripped out his winter so I got started on that knowing I would need the room to get the transmission out from under the car. I lifted the car 22" right on the dime I think it was to a certain high point in my undercarriage right where my front subframe cuts off. However, I couldn't get my transmission cooling lines off first of all because I had no clearance to move the wrench. So I undid everything lowed the tranny down just enough to spin the brass fittings on the cooling lines. BUT, as I was turning them so was the steel line. Its twisted up like a drill bit on the one end now. To get it out I simply cut the lines figuring they should be replaced anyway. I may also be going to a tranny cooler so I would need to redo the lines anyway.

Here's what going back in. Rebuilt th350 with a stage 3 b&m shift kit in it and a 2200 stall torque converter. The transmission has about 1000 miles on it and the torque converter has 50! I bought it off ebay for less then $100 CDN. The guy had it in his car but it was too low of a stall for his car so he ripped it out right away.

I've bought a new filter kit for the new transmission as well as front and rear seals. I figure since I have the thing out now I'll replace the seals just to be safe. Prior to frying my old transmission there was a leak between the engine and transmission. I just didn't feel like pulling the thing yet. But I don't want to have to do this right away again to its getting done before I put it in.

Can anyone give me some advice and tips on doing all the stuff to get it back in? I have a friend coming over on friday to help me put the new seals in and possibly the filter aswel. He'll be able to take a quick look at the car while he's over here aswell. Currently I'm the only one pulling this thing and I'm just following a service manual I picked up at a swap meet last weekend for $20. BTW, best dam $20 I ever spent.

Any recommendations for tranny oil, cooling system, way to fix my chopped up lines, etc?

Here are some high resolution pics:

New tranny and old one just after it was pulled.
Side view of old tranny(where linkage connects)
Perfect estimating by myself. Transmission JUST fit!
Shot of my tunnel and flywheel
speedo gear and horeshoe shifter linkage.
chopped up pail catching tranny fluid from cooling lines and engine held up.
The side of my exhaust that I haven't chopped up yet(its all getting redone to a 3" system that dumps before my 295-50-r15's
Old torque converter(guy who installed my motor put one size to small bolts in this thing! nasty clunking when starter engaged before)
cooling lines cut off at transmission


One last question for this post. I want to go to a rachet shifter. What are the implications for this? The thought of missing a shift and messing stuff up keeps running past my mind. Right now I have a horseshoe shifter and with the old transmission I couldn't lock the thing in 1st. I had drive, reverse, neutral, park, 2nd, and 3rd. But, no first. With a stage 3 I'll need first. Anyone know where I could get a cheap rachet shifter?

Thanks in advance.

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