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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-04-2006 08:34 PM
Crosley
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar
Put it this way, she almost has a degree in Architecture and she thinks she is a decendent of Frank Loyd Wright. I came home to walls literally torn out a couple of weeks ago.

I guess I was procrastinating too much so she thought she'd help me along.

I got a PhD in procrastinating.

good luck,

post back when you can
12-04-2006 07:55 PM
Lonestar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosley
Your wife wants remodel finished by Christmas? Did she specify a year?

Put it this way, she almost has a degree in Architecture and she thinks she is a decendent of Frank Loyd Wright. I came home to walls literally torn out a couple of weeks ago.

I guess I was procrastinating too much so she thought she'd help me along.
12-04-2006 07:02 PM
Crosley
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar
Just to let you know that I'm back and will be compiling my paperwork and drawings as soon as possible. With the remodeling going on and the fact the wife wants it done by Christmas I don't know how soon it will be (there's a lot of notes, and the drawings are full scale so they will need to be scaled down), not to mention I have to dig them out of storage.

I went to move the car the other day and for some odd reason it won't go into gear now...haven't had a chance to look at it yet.

Will get some stuff posted asap.

Your wife wants remodel finished by Christmas? Did she specify a year?

12-04-2006 06:44 AM
Lonestar Just to let you know that I'm back and will be compiling my paperwork and drawings as soon as possible. With the remodeling going on and the fact the wife wants it done by Christmas I don't know how soon it will be (there's a lot of notes, and the drawings are full scale so they will need to be scaled down), not to mention I have to dig them out of storage.

I went to move the car the other day and for some odd reason it won't go into gear now...haven't had a chance to look at it yet.

Will get some stuff posted asap.
11-18-2006 08:35 AM
Lonestar
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1
What are your upper and lower links lengths?
I appreciate you all being helpful in trying to diagnose this issue, so I will post all my drawings / notes on the set-up. Considering that I recently got my drivers license back after almost 10 years I had plenty of time to play so there are a ton of notes. This will take me some time as my new wife has the house boxed up in storage right now while she is remodeling and painting it. If I missed something in the set-up and you guys spot it that would be great (although I must admit I hate being wrong).

On top of that I have a nasty head cold so I won't be going out to the shop to get actual measurements right now AND we are leaving tonight for a week down in Raleigh for Thanksgiving.

If memory serves me correctly, the uppers were appx. 24" and the lowers were appx. 32". Both do have 1" of adjustment available.

As far as installing motor plates, I do not want to do that as I do not plan on keeping this engine in the car forever. I intend on using this car for a variety of different engines, including a stroked Buick so using plates would severely complicate things. This vehicle needs to be a "universal" type set-up for this reason.

When I get back I will spend some time going through my notes and getting them in order so someone other than myself can understand them (I am horrible at documenting things).
11-17-2006 03:35 PM
johnsongrass1 What are your upper and lower links lengths?
11-17-2006 03:04 PM
Lonestar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Highrise
In a sitting still level position...........How much inward sliding distance is left on your driveshaft yoke?
When I fitted the driveshaft I gave it 1.25" clearance.
11-17-2006 12:11 PM
Henry Highrise In a sitting still level position...........How much inward sliding distance is left on your driveshaft yoke?
11-17-2006 12:04 PM
Lonestar
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1
Have you thought about using a midplate and not using the rear trans mount at all?

Is your four link moving the axle forward enough to jam the driveshaft into the tranny and lifting the trans?

Is the body flexing enough to stress the joint?
There is no indication of either of these, I mounted one of those cheapo web / video cams under the car and recorded what was going on. Even though the recording was crappy I coudn't identify any issues.

I had thought about body flex, but I do have sub frame connectors and I do not see any indication of flex in all the normal areas (quarters, door jambs, etc..)
11-16-2006 03:27 PM
Henry Highrise
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1
Have you thought about using a midplate and not using the rear trans mount at all?

Is your four link moving the axle forward enough to jam the driveshaft into the tranny and lifting the trans?

Is the body flexing enough to stress the joint?
I was just thinking of force from the drive shaft into the tranny also...that could very well be part of the problem......
11-16-2006 03:22 PM
johnsongrass1 Have you thought about using a midplate and not using the rear trans mount at all?

Is your four link moving the axle forward enough to jam the driveshaft into the tranny and lifting the trans?

Is the body flexing enough to stress the joint?
11-16-2006 08:37 AM
Lonestar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Highrise
Exactly..... the way it is now...the engine mounts cannot flex so the tranny mount is getting all the force.
I have used solid mounts on the trans in the past with disastrous consequences. Typically the tailshafts are ripped off of the trans.

The best way that I have found so far is with my current setup, which I have used extensively over the years. One vehicle was a '73 Firebird loaded with a Kenne-Belle stroked Buick 455 (492 ci)...solid motor and rubber trans mounts were the only way I could keep the thing together.

We used a cable on another 3rd gen f-body in the same manner as my picture, only it did not have any give and coupled with the rubber motor mounts resulted in the trans being ripped off of the engine. It was quite a sight actually, left about 2" of the bell still bolted to the engine and the rest on the ground.

I do not seem to have any issues with launch, but the 1-2 shift gets me every time. My thought is that with this idea I can have a rigid mount with just enough give to absorb the shock.
11-16-2006 07:22 AM
Henry Highrise
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frisco
If you are going to use solid engine mounts then you should also use a solid trans mount. Assuming that the Lakewood trans mount is not a solid mount, then the way you have it now allows the trans to "flex" in its mount while the engine can not flex causing a great increase in the forces at the trans mount.

Either mount the engine and the trans solid or mount them all in rubber.
Exactly..... the way it is now...the engine mounts cannot flex so the tranny mount is getting all the force.
11-16-2006 07:05 AM
Frisco
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar
I have solid front mounts and the Lakewood trans mount.
If you are going to use solid engine mounts then you should also use a solid trans mount. Assuming that the Lakewood trans mount is not a solid mount, then the way you have it now allows the trans to "flex" in its mount while the engine can not flex causing a great increase in the forces at the trans mount.

Either mount the engine and the trans solid or mount them all in rubber.
11-16-2006 04:47 AM
Lonestar
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobscogin
The car is a 1985 Firebird with a TH-350.
Could be a clue here. The TH350 wasn't originally installed in your car. Does it have the stock rear axle torque arm set up which attached to the transmission? If so, how is it attached? To the transmission, crossmember, or what?

Bob[/QUOTE]

No, I ripped out the original suspension and installed a 4 link. I know what you are talking about with the torque arm, we used to snap off the trans tailshaft while running that setup. I learned that one a long time ago.
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