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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-19-2011 01:31 PM
longbox
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcclark
all you need is a sealer coat of epoxy over your urethane,
that's reducing it down as much as 25 to 50%.
With it reduced you shouldn't be getting orange peel.

Make sure you're turbine is not putting out to warm of air
like they're known for, that'll help it peel.
Use a slower reducer too.
Hey! Thanks! With reducer should i use?
05-19-2011 11:24 AM
Hotbo i have used a fair share of Omni Epoxys and they are not that great imo.

but like BarryK said it is a temp Problem.

dont over think this.

your cleaning process was good imo.


you final cleaned with PPG 330 which is great cleaner,only other thing i would have done was once finished with the Solvent borne cleaner i would have gone back over it with Waterborne.

but that did not cause the issue.Tempo control did imo.


Best of luck Travis...
05-19-2011 11:15 AM
OneMoreTime Ditch that laquer thinner as some of it will leave a residue that interferes with adhesion..and warm is good as most of the 2k products will not kick well under 60 degrees..

Sam
05-19-2011 11:03 AM
jcclark
Quote:
Originally Posted by longbox
but the say to spray another coat of epoxy over the urathan. then ill be right back to orange peel again! I'm using a hvlp turbine sprayer.
all you need is a sealer coat of epoxy over your urethane,
that's reducing it down as much as 25 to 50%.
With it reduced you shouldn't be getting orange peel.

Make sure you're turbine is not putting out to warm of air
like they're known for, that'll help it peel.
Use a slower reducer too.
05-19-2011 08:43 AM
wetstuff Scary read.. Last week, Thursday, was also the very first time I have shot Epoxy primer. ..outside, low-70s, medium humidity, sunshine... Stuck them in a shipping container because it's been rainy most of this week.

After reading this, I took a 3M red pad and scuff'd the hell out of a section of the inside of one of these four wheels. Mine seems good. Whew! I sandblasted and simply wiped with DX330 W/G remover.

Transtar 6104 primer is what I used. First time I tried Transtar stuff. I only shoot something a coupla times a year, usually Nason or duPont. I'm going to shoot the finish coats in the next couple of days to take advantage of upper-70's.

Thanks for reminding me about temps. I gather it is better to start with warm product on a warm day in sunshine - if you are stuck outside like me. Thanks for all the good info.

Jim
05-19-2011 07:55 AM
longbox
orange peeled epoxy

Quote:
Originally Posted by haism007
hello every one


SURFACE PREPARATION AND PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS:


STEP 1: Clean surface with soap and water to remove water soluble residue.
STEP 2: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330).
STEP 3: Hand sand hood to finished surface with 220 grit sand paper.
STEP 4: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330) and then apply a fast evaporating cleaner (PPG DX 220).
STEP 5: Apply the epoxy primer coat (PPG DP Series)*.
STEP 6: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330).
STEP 7: Lightly sand the surface with 220 grit sand paper.
STEP 8: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330) and then apply a fast evaporating cleaner (PPG DX 220).
STEP 9: Apply primer surfacer coat (PPG K36*.
STEP 10: Finish sand the surface with 400 grit sand paper, clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330) and then apply a fast evaporating cleaner (PPG DX 220).
STEP 11: Apply a coat of epoxy primer as a sealer (PPG DP Series)*. NOTE: To use the epoxy primer as a sealer, follow the mixing instructions provided by the manufacturer.
STEP 12: Apply the basecoat (PPG DBU DeltronŽ)*.
STEP 13: Apply clearcoat (PPG DCU 2020)*.
STEP 14: Polish to desired finish.


Hey! I'm repainting my 59 chevy truck and have just sprayed ppg epoxy primer. No mater how i sprayed it, it comes out with orange peel. is this normal? if i then spray the urethane primer and wet sand thats fine, but the say to spray another coat of epoxy over the urathan. then ill be right back to orange peel again! I'm using a hvlp turbine sprayer.
08-28-2008 11:52 AM
red65mustang "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"

just water and/or lacquer thinner won't neutralize any remaining (still active/left over) Navel Jelly acid....

wash the panel with a baking soda solution and a scotchbrite then a water rinse....

do agree, temp was the primary problem source and do agree 80 grit makes for a stronger mechanical bond to the steel
08-28-2008 10:54 AM
jcclark
Quote:
Originally Posted by goshawks00
Can anyone recommend a good 'fast' drying epoxy so I don't run into these issues?
Barry
Ive use epoxy by SPI, Montana, and Kirker.
They all did good and behaved pretty much the same.
The SPI comes in white, gray and black, I like that because I like to
mix a shade compatible with the final color. I stock white and black.
The Kirker is much thicker, and cheaper.
I like it as well but it doesn't come in white.
But for the money, that Kirker is hard to beat.
08-28-2008 08:18 AM
shine 220 is too fine for epoxy in my opinion. i 80 grit everything before epoxy.

temp is the leading cause for all types of paint failures .
i would move up to a better quality epoxy if it were me.
08-28-2008 07:40 AM
goshawks00 thanks for the posts all... Not trying to hi-jack thread but seems appropriate to ask... I am about to have my car ( 51 woodie) sandblasted and then it will be epoxied...
Can anyone recommend a good 'fast' drying epoxy so I don't run into these issues?
Thanks guys ..you all are making the site a big bonus to me and I really appreciate you.
Barry
06-06-2008 06:41 AM
haism007 hello every one


SURFACE PREPARATION AND PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS:


STEP 1: Clean surface with soap and water to remove water soluble residue.
STEP 2: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330).
STEP 3: Hand sand hood to finished surface with 220 grit sand paper.
STEP 4: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330) and then apply a fast evaporating cleaner (PPG DX 220).
STEP 5: Apply the epoxy primer coat (PPG DP Series)*.
STEP 6: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330).
STEP 7: Lightly sand the surface with 220 grit sand paper.
STEP 8: Clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330) and then apply a fast evaporating cleaner (PPG DX 220).
STEP 9: Apply primer surfacer coat (PPG K36*.
STEP 10: Finish sand the surface with 400 grit sand paper, clean surface with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX 330) and then apply a fast evaporating cleaner (PPG DX 220).
STEP 11: Apply a coat of epoxy primer as a sealer (PPG DP Series)*. NOTE: To use the epoxy primer as a sealer, follow the mixing instructions provided by the manufacturer.
STEP 12: Apply the basecoat (PPG DBU DeltronŽ)*.
STEP 13: Apply clearcoat (PPG DCU 2020)*.
STEP 14: Polish to desired finish.
11-23-2006 12:52 PM
baddbob Yup I agree it's either a temperature issue before and after spraying, old epoxy catalyst that has gone bad or a combination of the two. Your cleaning methods should have worked just fine and 120 grit scratches should have provided enough texture although 80 grit would have been better. I think it's time you shoot a test panel in good temperatures with good cure temps and see if the primer locks up and hardens good.
11-23-2006 12:20 PM
crashtech Epoxy is THE best thing for coating bare steel, but as far as cure rate goes, it can be a bit unforgiving. I would suggest that everyone doing refinish work in colder weather buy an infrared thermometer. I have one now and couldn't live without it during the winter. It's really important to keep metal temps above 60°F, As Barry says you can go down to 55° but in my experience the cure rate is VERY slow below 60°, plus there is always a margin for error, and as far as I know, somewhere in the mid 50's, catalyzing of the material just plain STOPS.
11-21-2006 10:06 AM
Bee4Me This issue came up awhile back I recall with the Omni epoxy and it being "soft" as well as lacquer thinner wiping it off.
Nature of that beast I believe.
Anybody bookmark that one?
11-21-2006 07:57 AM
onebadmerc Thanks for all the replies and help on this. This was my first time using epoxy primer, all I can say if you don't screw up you are not learning anything. My plan of attack is to take the hood back down to bare metal and start over, hopefully everything goes well this time around.
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