|12-31-2006 12:17 AM|
|PRO 48 fleetline||i recently just bought a 140 Hobart my first welder and im really happy with it bought it to worl on my hot rod and so far seems to work great i paid 490 for it its a 115 plug and can use the flux and the gas look forward to working with it just got it the other day plus i got the dealer to trow in a nice helment and a big role of wire with tank around 600 even|
|12-25-2006 09:19 AM|
|oldred||You could turn a compressor pump big enough to run a wind tunnel with that 110 AMP motor|
|12-24-2006 11:04 PM|
I believe you are talking about 110 volts and 220 volts, not amps? I believe you might be a little mixed up.
|12-24-2006 12:33 PM|
Yeah I bought my Hood At Harbour Freight . Paid 650 On my Lincoln + the Bottle Small Argon Co2 Mix rann 100 Buck's ! Your Lincoln Can Weld with Flux Wire and or Argon Mix Gas in a Bottle Reverse Polarity you can run Flux wire with out the Argon Bottle I Prefer the Argon Mix with .06mm Wire and or .08mm Wire Untill Metal Get's Thicker than 1/4 in or 3//16's is about where Penetration needs Flux Wire welding . My welder I run on 220 amp's << You need too check where and how your Gonna set Up 110 Or 220 Out lett Cause may Require a 220 Breaker And Wireing And Not Sure on this But Even the Lincoln Set upp on 110 Amp's I Think Requires A Single Circuit Breaker on 8 Gauge wire with a 20 amp breaker ! << Meaning Nothin can runn on the 110 Breaker Except the Welder and it has too come off a 20 amp breaker and wire gauge needs too be big enough too handle the 20 amp breaker and 20 amp out lett . So I urge you afore Buying the Welder that You Look at your Breaker Box and Determine if your sett up for running a welder and or what your willing too do or go thru too sett up the electric on your welder . <<< almost same deal as an Air Compressor ! So what ever Building Garage Etc Your setting up too weld in or do work in needs Some investigateing intoo ! Preferably before you purchase the Welder and or Air Compressor . As my Welder is sett up in my Dad's Garage . Wich he had wired for a 220 amp welder when he built the house ! But He Put Plug in on the Back Wall <<< Means I got a 15 ft extension Cord Too Welder So I can reach out front of the Garage . Extension Cord Rann me another 120 Buck's Built it My self with Wire From Home Depo About as Big around As your Thumb or Bigger and a Box Plugg In Of Proper Gauge wire . But reall screw up was the 110 Amp Compressor All outletts in the Garage were runn off 15 Amp Out letts and or breaker ! Luckily I traced Wire From the Fuse Box and Determined it was of a Large enought Gauge wire too Runn a 20 Amp Breaker . << Means I got Lucky and wire was of Large enough grade wire I could Runn a 20 Amp breaker and out lett For the Compressor ! << Sounds Complicated ! But it's Not ! Start At Breaker Box Make freinds with Guy at your Local Hardware Store . Investigate what you need then determine if your Gonna go 110 Amp's and or 220 Amp's And How your Gonna do your Compressor . << Will need 2 Seperate wires and 20 amp breakers on single seperate out letts . Other wise every time you turn the lights on the Welder and or Compressor Etc Or any thing else plugged in on there circuit will trip the breaker ! <<< Hope this help's gett ya pointed in right Direction too makin a Good Viable Descision on your Purchase ! Safety Glasses <<< Gonna need um and Suggest you wear them ! Im Currently Sufferin an Eye Injury ! Again ! 25+ years of metal workin ! Cant take it back ! once it happens ! Hurts reall badd ! And like any thing no matter how safe you are ? After 25+ years of daily metal fabricateing and welding it's bound too bite you a few times . << Only takes gettin bitt once, and it's not worth it ! Be Safe ! Shopp around ! Investigate ! Ask lotts of stupid question's ! Now I gotta take a Vicodan and a Napp, my eye hurts . Merry Xmass. Hope your's is Better than Mine ! Safety , Safety, Safety ! Big Ouch ! Lott's Of Anger ! And Regrett ! Sean
|12-24-2006 07:33 AM|
lowes has the 175 for less than $500. lincoln rep told me they are the same machine on the inside as what is available from lincoln direct.
|12-16-2006 04:06 PM|
|oldred||Eric, A 110 volt MIG will work just fine for what you are doing but stay away from the gas-less flux core welders. A lot of guys will buy a flux core welder because it is cheaper and up grade it to MIG later but it is much better and cheaper to just get a MIG in the first place. A 110 machine will do the job with .023 solid wire just like a 220 volt on thin stock but it's duty cycle will be shorter, that is you will only be able to weld a short time before having to let the machine cool however this is usually not much of a problem when doing body work. What you are planing on doing is not particularly hard but does require a fair amount of skill so if you do this yourself practice a LOT before attempting a job like that, learn to weld on scrap NOT on your car!|
|12-16-2006 02:17 PM|
hi,i have a lincoln weld-pac 155,8 years old,great machine,ive used hobarts,and millers,and they are all great machines. you pays your money and you takes your choice. before you buy,go to a few pawn shops and see what they have, my lincoln was $636.00 in home depot,and i bought one BRAND new from a pawn shop for $250.00 check out the pawn shops..im boatbob2
|12-16-2006 12:41 PM|
I have a 66 Mustang that I need to weld rear subframe patches on. I only have 110 available in my garage. Is it possible to get a safe repair with a 110 welder, or should I get someone to weld those pieces for me?
I haven't bought a welder yet for my body repair, and I am new to the welding stuff.
|12-12-2006 08:57 PM|
I just last week bought a new Miller 180 mig. It has just been released to the market and is not on the Miller web site yet. I bought it off Ebay from Indiana Oxegen. The thing about the new 180 is the voltage setting instead of having just 4 clicks to set it on it has knob just like the wire speed so you can dial in the exact voltage you need. I really like it. Here is a link to the company. The new Miller is not on Ebay you will have to call and ask about it.
It was $742.00 delivered to the door.
|12-11-2006 11:59 AM|
If you just buy a cheap helmet with one lense, you want a #9 or #10. That's good for most welding jobs.
The only time I've had a problem with my auto darkening helmet (provided by USAF -- forget the manufacturer and model) is when I was instructing. Lots of on/off cycles when watching over students shoulders will give you a head ache by the end of the day! If you use it a lot for a day or two you might get a bit of a head ache -- especially "stitch welding" large seams.
You can cut down on the headaches closing your eyes momentarily (a bit longer than a quick blink) right as the shield changes from dark to light (and vice-versa), which almost defeats the purpose of buying one anyway! Hard to anticipate when the arc is going to light up though. It's still better than having to reach up and move the helmet or using the "nod" tehcnique to lower the helmet -- you never move your head so you're still "on target" when you start.
My theory is your eyes are more ready to adjust when you close them momentarily, it's not the sudden adjustment like when you strike the arc. Learned this in the desert mostly -- going from a nice shaded room into very bright desert light.
|12-06-2006 10:23 PM|
If you will settle for the T version, keep watching Ebay. There's a bunch on there. I just won a bid three days ago on one, new in an unopened box for $409 plus $49 shipping, $458 total from an established seller with a 100% rating. The cheapest locally I could find one was $600 plus tax (though I didn't look real hard).
It seems that the Plus versions are no cheaper than local sources, maybe because they are pretty scarce on Ebay.
At least you are going with a name brand. I started with a HF mig several years ago and it has already died after light use. Never again.
|12-06-2006 07:26 PM|
|39chevy||Thanks alot guys for the great INFO, I'm off to spend More Money, (it never ends) Dana|
|12-05-2006 08:25 PM|
I have used that HF hood and it is a good one, they are on sale now for $49.95. The shade is adjustable from #9-#13 and the shade time is about 20/000 of a second. About 5 years ago I bought a Hobart model called "The Hood" for $199.99 and a year or so later I was looking at the HF hood and guess what, it had the same identical "Chameleon" lens in it as the Hobart at 4 times the price The shell and head gear was different but the electrics were EXACTLY the same thing! The newer Hobarts have a different lens now than they used then but so does the HF hood and I would not be at all surprised to find it the same as the newer Hobart but I don't know if that is true now or not. Anyway I have tried the HF hood and the shell and head gear are not bad at all and the lens worked as well as any I have used.
Just an added note here, don't believe all those horror stories you will hear about people burning their eyes because one of those hoods failed to darken because the UV protection is 100% even when in the light mode. This means that even though it may be a bit un-nerving and somewhat uncomfortable when it fails to darken on occasion it will not cause any harm and is nothing to worry about.
|12-05-2006 08:04 PM|
If you are just mig welding the lower end helmets will do nicely. If you're doing other types of welding you'd probably want a higher end one.
I bought my autodark helmet from HF for $50.00 'normally 100.00'.
My biggest suggestion is don't buy one online! NOT unless you go try it on for fit, open and close it, move around a little like you're working on something. There's nothing worse than an Ill-Fitting helmet no matter what the price.
I bought one 2 years ago and have abused the heck out of it and never had a problem. My friend who has owned a body shop for 25+ years, he liked it so well he bought one for his shop. They're hard to beat for welding sheet metal.
Basically most of the mid priced welders are pretty close. If you get a chance what you want to compare is the electronics, and the rollers and drive areas. I thought the Miller had a little better parts in these areas than the Hobart, didn't look at a Lincoln so can't comment on those.
Also take look at the business end of the the welding the hand grip, tip and nozzle - to see the quality of parts there as well. If I were to criticize my Miller 135 it would be that I would prefer a beefier components in this area - but the stock one has held up so far.
|12-05-2006 06:36 PM|
I really have the same question on the helmet (self darkening). Re the welder, I ended up with he MillerMatic 175 in that I have 240v in my garage. Otherwise I think I would have gone with the Miller 135. It was really pretty much of a toss up to me between the Miller and the Lincoln. I didn't look at any Hobarts but my reading indicates their quality is on par with the others. Good luck and I hope someone posts on the helmet recommendation.
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