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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-03-2007 06:31 AM
302 Z28 Mike, I have considered using the lower hinge as a method of running the wires and that is probably what I will do, just have to fabricate some kind of cover for the wires. The contact type would be a PIA as I would have to cut the mounting hole through the 1/4" thick hinge mounting plate in the "B" pillar.

Brian, I have looked at all the commercially available wire chases and none will work with the geometry of the 34 Ford's offset hinge design, thanks.

Vince
01-02-2007 11:19 PM
powerrodsmike Vince- on all of the 34 coupe bodies with hidden hinges I wired I made a sheetmetal wire duct that laid flat on the lower hinge and put a loop in the wires towards the back by the hinge pivot. If you position the wires just right they bend at that point and don't need a big area to accomodate the loop.

I know the sliding type conduits won't work due to the shearing action that goes on between the door and door jamb, unless you mount them inboard some. The 34 bodies are not wide enough in that area to make installation easy.

The other alternative is the door jamb contact plates like carolina custom machine and golden rodtronics and others make, but those suck a little because you lose the connection when the door is open. I have seen them get messed up by the shearing action also if they are not positioned just right Usually those require modification to shorten the travel of the contact pin, as the door is really close to the jamb. Some are adjustable.
Check these out
http://www.widecontact.com/product1.html

Hope this helps,
mikey
01-02-2007 10:39 PM
docvette Doc here,

Try an accordion style Rubber Boot..(you can find in about any boneyard in a late model car..) It will fit between the A post and the Door frame, and when closed, will "fold" onto itself.

Be sure you put a rubber coated Adel clamp on the A post side and another at the inside door frame for stress relief, and be sure it is at maximum "extend" (door open) ..

That should work fine for power windows and locks as needed for the doors. Be sure the "boot has a "snug fit when you cut the holes, add pliobond glue to assist the boot.

Doc
01-02-2007 09:27 PM
Bryan59EC Vince
58-60 Big GM used a steel "trough" (for lack of a better term) that was bolted to the door and actually went into the jamb when the door closed.

American Autowire---Factory Fit
They have them in their performance catalog----I think they said they were for the 57 Chevy.


Bryan
01-02-2007 09:16 PM
Stroker56 Glad to hear I am not the only shy when it comes to the electrical side of things. I'm sure a 50 Amp would make a good bang going off.

I had heard that the "SNAP" kit info was not the greatest but for me the $$ was right.

Now that I am sure everything is working I too am cleaning things up .Just got the basics going so I can run and drive this summer . Will take it apart again next winter and add some goodies after saving up up some bucks .
01-02-2007 09:03 PM
302 Z28 Just finished the preliminary wiring on my 34 this evening. It is also an It's A Snap harness. I am running the fuse panel from a 50 amp Maxi Fuse, it and the battery are in the trunk. First I just touched the Maxi Fuse to it's holder and got no spark so I went ahead and plugged it in. Everything works, cranked it from the ignition switch for the first time . I have my low and high beam headlamps on relays, the electric choke is on a relay off the alternator, the suicide door locks are off relays with a Dakota Digital controller, the trans lockup is off a relay, as well as the A/C power and A/C blower motor. Needless to say I was also a little apprehensive about plugging in that honkin 50 amp fuse. Still have to clean everything up and get it all tucked in though.

I also found the supplied instructions quite a bit lacking. In the off time at work I drew (CAD) up my own wiring schematic based on the It's A Snap kit.

Anyone got any tips on passing the wires from the body into the doors? Most wire chases will not work due to the offset hinge setup of the 34 Ford. The door does not open square away from the jamb, it kinda moves back and away from it.

Thanks
Vince
01-02-2007 02:42 PM
docvette Doc here,

Sounds about right..

just wanted to be sure you were not using AC and Had everything Digital unplugged!

Can't be too careful.

Doc
01-02-2007 02:38 PM
Stroker56 DOC

The output was 4 volts DC and if I used the meter right for AMPS it was at 1.15. at the source .Dropped to 1.02 at the taillights.

Does this sound right? Like I said electrical and me are at opposite ends of the spectrum.
01-02-2007 02:24 PM
docvette Doc here,

Glad to hear you had some "Non~Destructive " testing and all went well!

The Train set Variable supply IS a good Idea EXCEPT .. be sure of 2 things..One it has enough current to test with..(amps not milliamp) and IT IS NOT A.C voltage! AC voltage WILL Destroy any Solid state devices on the line..

Linear, CMOS/HMOS technology will not tolerate ANY AC on a DC source line..The chips will go into Thermal shutdown ( usually forever) and the unit will be destroyed. (ECM's, ECU's, Alarm systems, Tach, Digital Dash, CD players, power amps,Digital clocks)

This is why I Never advocate using a battery charger for testing new harness. Chargers ARE not Regulated, Nor Well Filtered..a Standard wally~mart charger usually consists of a half wave rectifier, a Filter cap, multi tap transformer, and a Current meter and fuse..

This means each half wave of AC power that passes from the transformer, will pass through to the DC side, and cause an AC ripple (or wave form) that can be destructive..

A Bench supply, (used for DC testing) HAS a full wave rectifier , AND current and Voltage regulation, surge and spike suppression, proper fusing and A CLEAN DC output.. Unfortunately not everybody has one..

If you would like to test the theory, hook any OLD car radio up to a battery charger and SEE what you get...IF it works at all, you will hear nothing but an intolerable buzz..in the audio output.

I always advocate the use of the lantern battery's, if no bench supply is not available.

Anyway..It's good to hear you had success..

Onward and upward!

Doc
01-02-2007 01:59 PM
Stroker56 Trucknut,Bluepen,DOC,

Working on the wiring this AM ,I used a variable voltage thingy from an old model train set . Set the voltage at 4 volts and checked all circuits for the voltages. Guess what.... I found it everywhere I put the meter. Headlights \taillights \dimmer\radio \dome\dizzy\fuel wire\brake switch etc . Connectors were all disconnected of course .......NO SMOKE

Man I am happy

Thanks for the notes all
01-01-2007 04:52 PM
Stroker56 Doc ,

I think I will try that low voltage test with the lantern batteries .

Thanks for the suggestion.
01-01-2007 02:36 PM
docvette Doc here,

If your real nervous about power...

Get 2 ~ 12 Volt Lantern Battery's in Parallel, and use them for your FIRST low Voltage testing...(Don't try and run headlamps ect..) If it all checks, you should be good to go with a standard Automotive battery.

If any shorts exsist..There is not enough current with lantern battery's to do any harness damage.

Best "O" Luck!

Doc
01-01-2007 02:06 PM
Stroker56 Think I will pull the fuses out of the box and push in one at a time or check if the power is there at each circuit like both you and trucknut said ..one at a time

Electricity and I don't get along either .Could be the age thing I couln't read the writing on each wire even with my specs. Had to get one of my girls involved .

Guess I will get up the nerve and try it this week .

Thanks for the encouragment
01-01-2007 01:55 PM
Bluepen I know how you feel belive me. I did my '46 Panel with a kit from EZ wire and me and electricty do not get along at all. I had to call a guy to come put in a switch and two outlets in my kitchen when I remodeled it. The only thing I can tell you is just what Trucknut did, take it slow one system at a time then take a deep breath and turn the key. I'm sure you did fine just like mine turned out and I'd never done anything like it before.
OH, if you can get one a CO2 or Halon extinguisher does not leave a mess just in case you have to use it


Hey I just noticed, how come its us older guys that are so nervous about doing these kinda things for the first
01-01-2007 11:25 AM
Trucknut I went thru the same anxiety when I wired my 1951 Chevy Suburban. I took all the wiring out of it before doing a complete inside and out paint and restore. You may have the upper hand on me in that I didn't use any type of kit or harness. I did it wire for wire, front to back, including the complete dash and guages. I mounted a fuse block under the hood, on the firewall and segregated each circuit individually. When it came time to connect the battery, I was really concerned. So, I put my fire extinguisher close by, hooked up the battery and took it one step at a time. Turned on the lights (I had added some things), tried the turn signals (they were after-market, as this '51 didn't come with them). After I went thru an individual check of each system....I hit the key and found that the engine cranked. Maybe I got lucky or maybe I just knew what I was doing. This was two years ago and it's all good today. I still have my concerns, but.......I still have my fire extinguisher!

All I can tell you is fire it up and see what you did right. Sounds to me like you did your best.

Let us know what happens.
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