|01-10-2007 11:14 AM|
heads cam and converter
if you decide to sell your existing Dart215 heads, and converter drop me an e-mail email@example.com.
|01-09-2007 05:32 PM|
[/QUOTE]I will take your advice and not go with a bigger cam[/QUOTE]
Both cams listed in your first post are smaller then your current cam...
[/QUOTE]but instead continue to save my money for some AFR 190's....I took some ill advice from the guy at the speed shop he talked me into the Dart pro1 215's as soon as I drove the car I new I had made a mistake...The are nice heads but as you guys said not enough cubes.....I will save them for another build.[/QUOTE]
Maybe spend the AFR head money on a .060 over crank kit for your block and stroke it to better fit your Dart 215's! That would give you a 388 with a 3.750 crank or a 401 with a 3.875 crank.
[/QUOTE]Also i did call that guy Joe Sherman...He would not give me the time of day unless i was going to buy a engine from him..He was real jerk... [/QUOTE]
I don't know what to say except it doesn't reflect my experience and I've never purchased a complete engine from him, but I have purchased parts.
Did you buy the 64cc or 72cc combustion chamber Dart 215's and did you have them milled? What are the specs for your pistons?
If you replace your heads with a pair that has smaller intake runners, you still don't have enough converter (or gear in my opinion) for your current cam.
|01-09-2007 03:21 PM|
Rule of thumb on SBC is cubes x 50 % = port volume for street performance.
cubes x 55 % = volume for high rpm useage.
You want the port air velocity at an rpm range you can use effectively.
Several tests have shown that AFRs flow better for the port size. = more power.
|01-09-2007 02:26 PM|
You could sell those heads for 5 to 800 around here.
|01-09-2007 12:23 PM|
Interesting. Every time I have talked to Joe he has been the nicest person and wanted to visit about our hot rodding experience beyond my technical inquiry. I have never done $ 1 worth of business with him.
Maybe somebody was kicking his cat.
|01-08-2007 03:33 PM|
Thanks all for you comments and advice.......
I will take your advice and not go with a bigger cam but instead continue to save my money for some AFR 190's....I took some ill advice from the guy at the speed shop he talked me into the Dart pro1 215's as soon as I drove the car I new I had made a mistake...The are nice heads but as you guys said not enough cubes.....I will save them for another build.
Also i did call that guy Joe Sherman...He would not give me the time of day unless i was going to buy a engine from him..He was real jerk...
|01-08-2007 01:07 PM|
Just curious here. Not being a smart-a..s.
If you chose a ductile iron cam OR if you chose a grind that did not perform as you hoped, is either a fault of CompCams..?????
All engines are combinations and some parts work together better than others. Often minimal spec changes are quite noticable.
Did you try altering the lifter clearances to see if the cam is too big or too small for your combination? Did you alter cam timing to adjust for variations in combination? Often cam changes need fuel mixture and timing tweaking.
|01-08-2007 12:51 PM|
As to your split duration comment. It depends on if the intake is less, or the exhaust is more than the comparison cam. He is considering splitting to a shorter intake, thereby reducing the overlap minimally.
My poor choice of wording.
I should have said
"I think it would be a waste of money to change. You already have an outrageously large set of heads and cam for your cubes/compression.
..... If you were to use more cam the dynamic compression and the overall combination would be worse. You compression likes a 224-230* cam. Crutching the combination with a minimumly smaller cam would be disappointing in my opinion. Not much will help the slow port velocity of those large heads that like 7000 rpm on a 355 cube.
Luckily you have a dual plane intake which crutches the cam overlap. If you had a single plane intake it would be rough idle and be horrible to drive. YOu would drop 4" idle vacuum. You probably also have very large headers.
The heads and cam might be matched to each other, but not matched to the intake and cubic inches as the heads/cam implies a race car.
I would go for a maximum chassis dyno tune-up to see what you can get from what you already have, and then carefully consider changes. In my opinion your combination is ill chosen.
I would look to cam timing, ignition curve, and fuel mixture as already suggested by this forum crew.
Trouble is, chassis dyno time will eat your money and might net you minimal gains.
|01-08-2007 10:54 AM|
It seems to me that your heads and cam are matched OK right now. Your cam could be bigger, but I dont think it is out of the ballpark. The compression is a little low for the current cam you have though, so I think the fact that you did not go any bigger on the cam is a good thing. Being that your heads are as large as they are, I dont know that going with a smaller cam would gain you the low end power you are looking for. I think you would be better off buying a 3500 converter to get the stall speed more into the powerband when you hit the gas. When you sell the cam and heads, you could also sell the converter with them.
|01-08-2007 07:47 AM|
I think you got that back-wards. A split duration cam typically makes an engine run rougher due to more overlap.
For example a 270/270 degree cam ground on 110 lobe separation will have 50 degrees of overlap. A 270/280 cam cam ground or 110 lobe separation will have 55 degrees of overlap.
|01-07-2007 02:21 PM|
I think it would be a waste of money to change. You already have an outrageously large set of heads and cam for your cubes/compression and more cam might really hurt the mid range due to duration and dynamic compression loss.
|01-05-2007 05:09 PM|
|bonzipenguins||Another advantage on dual patterns is slightly smoother at the same durations,and more vacuum.But other than that there isnt much it does for performance.Sometimes single patterns will still make power past that of the dual patterns.|
|01-05-2007 03:18 AM|
New Cam Advice
71C10 wanted to see the differences between my old cam and my new one so I found the old cam card.The cam that was in my car when I bought it was a Crane solid roller part # 138021,valve lift was .567 for intake & exhaust,duration @ .050 was 234 intake and 244 exhaust.The new Comp solid roller is part # 11-771-8,valve lift is .646 intake & .653 exhaust, duration @ .050 is 242 intake and 248 exhaust.For what its worth,the old Crane cam lasted for over 15 years,and if I had of known that the squealing noise that I thought was the alternator was actually a lifter,I could have put new lifters in and probably still be running that cam.
|01-04-2007 07:09 AM|
Only 300 on the dyno means your engine isn't making the power it should or the dyno is wrong. Have you ran any timed 1/4 miles?
You combo should be making about 350 rwhp even with the mismatch of parts. So, maybe you should find out where the problem is before installing new parts. What is your total timing? Did you measure air/fuel ratio on the dyno? Checked cylinder pressure?
Yes, the cam and heads are too big for your combo. Get a smaller cam and head cc or add more cr, more gear, and more stall. A smaller cam would help but as you know already, those heads are killing low speed torque.
Typically heads that flow well don't need split durations or narrow lobe centers to aid in cylinder filling. However, narrower lobe centers will allow the intake valve to close earlier which will make more dynamic compression ratio and help low speed torque. Have you tried advancing the cam 4 more degrees?
|01-04-2007 05:21 AM|
I was hoping Guy would give us his old vs new info as well...
I like to go higher than the "bare" minimum advertised compression, stall and gear recommendations. http://www.holley.com/50157.asp
Maybe you should consider more converter (since your below the minimum recommended) until your ready to build a new motor?
Take your car down to Joe, you'll find him "very" straight forward and honest with his opinions.
Let us know what he says.
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