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i'm gunna need some help

3K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  MrPhotographer06 
#1 ·
I'll find out tommorrow if we have a deal but i'm plannig on getting a 1965 Mustang Coupe which is suspected to have a 200 CI straight 6. the exterior is rusted in places but it comes with all the parts to repair the exterior problems :thumbup: then comes the interior .. it as far as i can tell needs to be gutted and re started.. i've only heard words.. but no sights yet.. so i need to see before beliving.. i'm gunna need some help with decisions on interior and the engine has been said to have run last summer. I'll post pics and a new thread that hopefully yall can help me with..

-Scott
 
#2 ·
Soundsl like a great project. Be forwarned though, early Mustangs have some dirty secrets. The inner cowl was made of plain steel with no rustproofing and that is where the rainwater collects from the draining though the louvers at the bottom of the windshield. WHEN the cowl rotted out, it let water drain onto the carpet which rotted out the floor boards which rotted out the structure below the floor. If you pull the carpet back on the passenger and drivers side, you'll probably find some cobbled up tin repair that was done at some time.

Really don't want to spoil the fun, just letting you know. I'm working on a 70 right now that had these problems too.

You can check my journal out here:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal.php?action=view&journalid=20616&page=11&perpage=5&reverse=1
 
#3 ·
64-69 Rambler Americans and 63-66 Rambler Classic and Ambassador have a similar problem with the cowl vent floor. Only in those cases there was at least paint. Trash/leaves/etc. accumulate over the years and cause it to rust out, just like the Mustang. I had that same problem, just made a new floor and put it in. Should be available as a patch panel for the Mustang, I had to make my own! Some photos are in my album. Not extremely difficult once you figure it out. I had to go under the hood and put a few rivets in, but they aren't noticeable unless you know they're in.
 
#4 ·
Absolute first priority if you get the car is replace every part of the brakes hydraulics...steel lines, hoses, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, etc

they are extremely dangerous because it is a single cylinder master cylinder......"if" any part fails you lose all the brakes instantly....have no stopping at all...pedal just goes to the floor

the steel lines rust from the inside out due to moisture in the lines so there is no way to tell when they are going to fail....you don't know how old and rotted the hoses and cylinders are....fair chance the master is original and all the seals are shot

best if you replace the master with a 67' or later dual cylinder

the good news is all the parts are resonably priced, alot are available local and the rest from any of the many Mustang parts houses (ex:mustangsunlimited.com online catalog)

wet feet from a cowl leak won't kill you....no brakes will
 
#7 ·
Hmmm I usually just Slidd mine off the Road intoo the Bar ditch too get her too stop . Yipp from Falcon's too Rancheros , Too a 66 Shelby 2+2 << pretty much covers me and my car experience add F series truck's and Air Cooled Buggys too the list . But For me Horses were my first Luv . On the 200 motor Mustang << realize has Falcon brakes small Drumms << Meaning Might wanna Consider Upgrades here afore you start just rebuilding the existing System . the 200 CU In is for the Most part a 170 Falcon or Maverick motor . So Afore you start thinkin it needs a v8 motor need too consider the car and what your intentions are for it . as too is this a OEM restoration or is this Gonna be a Hot Rodd with all the Goodies ! Lotts of Goodies availiable for these Cars . I was even once involved with a 351 Cleaveland in a 65 << requires Shaving of the Shock Towers <<, Old School Technology Not really reccomended these Days 5.0 Is the way Too Go But realize on the V8 Transformation intoo the 6 cyl Mustang Gonna need a Differential 8 In be Minimum or Custom made Ford 9 In But then Theres Stuff out there on the Market Supercedes Any of the Stuff Ive Done with these Car's . I once Did a 390 In a 68 Cougar <<, That was a trick and My 66 2+2 with Shelby Tail Pinns Came with Flaired Fenders and one Ratted out 351 Windsor motor With Headers > yeah I was a kidd then and it Pumped oil like crazy . Had too change Plugs All the Time Not easy task with windsor and headers . But Yeah I loved these Cars ! Basic 2 types of re Upholstering Kitts For the Seat's 1 Was Cheap << No horswey emblem on Seat Other was Qaulity Had Horsey Emblem's . There a Unibody Vehicle <<, Might wanna Consider Full Frameing in the Partial Unibody on it . Then theres Door Repair <<< Camaros and Mustangs Long Door's <<, Means You gett the Fulcrum Affect . Then the Cowl Like what was mentioned in Former Post << Hopefully you wont have too Go there ? Then Suspension << Realize that 6 cyl Mustang Suspension is that of the Falcon not the Mustang V8 there are considerable differences in these car's . So not sure what your intentions on the car is but hope maybe this will get you too lookin in right Direction , and askin right question's per where you intend too take the Car . Sean
 
#8 ·
yep yep

but i'm going with the stang i belive...
so now i need some help with design plans
b/c i want it to be street/strip car
so the interor needs to be awesome ..
its going to be gutted so i'll install new radio and speakers and what not.. .. i think i can get my hands on a 428CJ.if not i'll find a 351C

but racing bucketseat with racing seatbelt for the left side.
racing.. LEANING bucket seat for right side.. racing seat belt?
rear seats going to be re-covered.. and regular seat belts

carpet.. idk

dash will be stock

the gauges might be left alone except for maybe a tach and the 3 gauge pod under the center dash



..sorry if this seems redundant.. but i copied it from an email.. so if yal didnt know.. i'm stickin stang.. sorry VW fans
 
#9 ·
MrPhotographer06 said:
but i'm going with the stang i belive...
so now i need some help with design plans
b/c i want it to be street/strip car
so the interor needs to be awesome ..
its going to be gutted so i'll install new radio and speakers and what not.. .. i think i can get my hands on a 428CJ.if not i'll find a 351C

but racing bucketseat with racing seatbelt for the left side.
racing.. LEANING bucket seat for right side.. racing seat belt?
rear seats going to be re-covered.. and regular seat belts

carpet.. idk

dash will be stock

the gauges might be left alone except for maybe a tach and the 3 gauge pod under the center dash



..sorry if this seems redundant.. but i copied it from an email.. so if yal didnt know.. i'm stickin stang.. sorry VW fans
follow the KISS rule for now, you have what could be a very nice car, you could even take to the track. a 428 CJ WILL NOT fit in a Falcon Chassie without a lot of fabrication, and even a 351C will need finnessing. keep the 6cyl, in stock form, they have a strong bottom end, 7 mains 6 cyl in a row, meaning it's twice the strength of a 2 bolt 302 or 351W as a V8 has 4 mains. many things change between V8 and 6cyl cars, suspension, steering, rear end, trans are 2 diffrent bellhousings. Put a few parts into the 6cyl, headder, '78- later cylinder head ( shaved .080 ), cam, 2bbl carb ect..., it will sound cool, and it might not be the fastest, you might turn a 15-16s time slip, but your only 14, you don't need a rocket ship. you could even get the comp to 8.5:1 and run a turbocharger and have approx 200 HP at the wheels.
 
#10 ·
well

matt167 said:
follow the KISS rule for now, you have what could be a very nice car, you could even take to the track. a 428 CJ WILL NOT fit in a Falcon Chassie without a lot of fabrication, and even a 351C will need finnessing. keep the 6cyl, in stock form, they have a strong bottom end, 7 mains 6 cyl in a row, meaning it's twice the strength of a 2 bolt 302 or 351W as a V8 has 4 mains. many things change between V8 and 6cyl cars, suspension, steering, rear end, trans are 2 diffrent bellhousings. Put a few parts into the 6cyl, headder, '78- later cylinder head ( shaved .080 ), cam, 2bbl carb ect..., it will sound cool, and it might not be the fastest, you might turn a 15-16s time slip, but your only 14, you don't need a rocket ship. you could even get the comp to 8.5:1 and run a turbocharger and have approx 200 HP at the wheels.
well i guess your right


i want a 4 bbl..but that'd be hard

... but later on i'll worry bout that..

i'll hold what i got..

and drag it.. and tune it ..

i think i could run a 11-12 with a 6 cyl easy ..

i mean the 4clys do it dont they ... but they got more parts... i got 2 more cyls. than themm..MUAHHAHAHAHAHA

lol

thanx
 
#11 ·
MrPhotographer06 said:
i want a 4 bbl..but that'd be hard


i think i could run a 11-12 with a 6 cyl easy ..
Why a 4bbl? there is no super magic that always makes a 4bbl better. every part has an application in which it belongs on, for these 6's, a 500 CFM Holley 2300 2bbl seems to do the trick well for a N/A motor, but a 350 CFM Holley 2300 2bbl works best for Turbo/ supercharged applications, if you had an aussie 250 2v head ( or new Alloy head, when it comes out ), you could mod the intake to fit a 390 CFM Holley 4bbl and they work good ither way, but with a factory USA cast integral intake ' log head ' a 4bbl would be almost not possible.


There is a '63 Roundbody Falcon that runs a turbocharged 250 CID I6 ( same engine faimily as 200 I6 ) and runs mid 11's in the 1/4, grantid it has a lot of $$ in the motor, it puts about 446 HP out at the crank. if you turbocharged your 200 I6, you would have at least 200 HP at the crank, right now you have 120 gross rating. I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my 200 I6 ford for my '67 Falcon right now, I got a turbo for it, and a bunch of other go fast goodies I'm going to buy for it, so I know a bit about them, if you need help with anything.
 
#12 ·
matt167 said:
Why a 4bbl? there is no super magic that always makes a 4bbl better. every part has an application in which it belongs on, for these 6's, a 500 CFM Holley 2300 2bbl seems to do the trick well for a N/A motor, but a 350 CFM Holley 2300 2bbl works best for Turbo/ supercharged applications, if you had an aussie 250 2v head ( or new Alloy head, when it comes out ), you could mod the intake to fit a 390 CFM Holley 4bbl and they work good ither way, but with a factory USA cast integral intake ' log head ' a 4bbl would be almost not possible.


There is a '63 Roundbody Falcon that runs a turbocharged 250 CID I6 ( same engine faimily as 200 I6 ) and runs mid 11's in the 1/4, grantid it has a lot of $$ in the motor, it puts about 446 HP out at the crank. if you turbocharged your 200 I6, you would have at least 200 HP at the crank, right now you have 120 gross rating. I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my 200 I6 ford for my '67 Falcon right now, I got a turbo for it, and a bunch of other go fast goodies I'm going to buy for it, so I know a bit about them, if you need help with anything.
iight then turbo it is..

i think the 500 CFM Holley woudl be cool..

NOS maybe?
 
#13 ·
MrPhotographer06 said:
iight then turbo it is..

i think the 500 CFM Holley woudl be cool..

NOS maybe?
if your going turbo, then you would want the 350 CFM, overcarbing is not good, will cause the engine to run like crap until you wind it up. if you want NOS, drill and tap for 1/8" NPT right under the carb mounting base, then you can use a single NOS fogger nozzle.
 
#14 ·
You might as well use the Crites kit on the shock towers, or better yet just MII the front end. You will be happier in the long run.

I don't hink that I will ever do another one without trimming the towers, even if I use a 302 block. :thumbup: It's too easy to do, and the benefits later are well worth the trouble.
 
#15 ·
tomorrows the day
i'm so ready..


no not for my orthodonist appointment.. ugh

but for the time after..

when i get the final word on the trade..

then i got to get permission for the whole deal from my dad....

then here come my mustang

so cant wait...

i'll post picures of them tomorrow..

they look all rusty b/c they've been siting in a field for like 5 years

-Scott

oh and thanks for all yalls replies...
 
#16 ·
xntrik said:
You might as well use the Crites kit on the shock towers, or better yet just MII the front end. You will be happier in the long run.

I don't hink that I will ever do another one without trimming the towers, even if I use a 302 block. :thumbup: It's too easy to do, and the benefits later are well worth the trouble.
What do you mean by "trimming the towers"? Mine is alomst completely disassembled and I could do it. That won't give me enough room for a 4.6 DOHC will it? :thumbup:
 
#17 ·
MrPhoto -- no offense, but you ARE only 14. You've got a lot to learn! You will be able to learn most of the basics with the six, and it will be very forgiving. I run a six now, though it has been hopped up just a little... The point is none of the things you've talked about have an application. On most sixes a 500 cfm carb will kill it. A lot of people put 750 cfm carbs on V-8s, then wonder why they seem to have lost power instead of gained. The carb has to be sized to the engine, as already pointed out. I deal mostly with Rambler/AMC/Jeep sixes (all the same, with the exception of the oldest Rambler sixes). The biggest one is a 258. The largest carb used on it is a 500 cfm 4V, but only hard core drag racers use it. It only works well at high rpm. Most of the four wheelers use a Holley 390 cfm 4V, and a few a 450 cfm.

The Ford 200 is a good engine, but the intake is cast into the head. You really can't change carburetors on it. That's one of the limitations to that design. It can still produce decent power. Compare it to a Honda Civic or one of the other small four cylinder cars of today -- that's about how the car will feel (a little better because of the six). Learn to drive it -- it may not last more than a year or two. We were all young once, and most of use can tell you about the wrecks and/or stupid stuff we did with or first cars that led to their demise. Most of us got through it with only minor injuries -- and the real lucky (like me!!) with none. The cars, however.... well, let me say that there aren't that many that still have their first car in great condition. There are a few, but most of the cars are gone. Big plans and cutting/"fixing up" ruined more than one of them due to lack of knowledge/skill and/or funds. Nothing like starting a project that will never get finished!

So take it easy! Get the thing running. Learn to tune it, do your own brake job, and other things. THEN contemplate what you'd like to put under the hood. A turbo on the six would help -- the engine will only suck so much air down that small carb, but you can force a bit more! Not a whole lot, but enough to notice. The fours have larger carbs, actually. They turn a lot more rpm, so they move more air -- the pistons just have to move up and down a lot faster to move it. That's why in-line sixes last so long -- they turn relatively slow in comparison to small fours. That's the main reason US manufacturers in the 60s used small sixes instead of fours -- longevity. Slower turning means fewer warranty calls too.
 
#18 ·
farna said:
MrPhoto -- no offense, but you ARE only 14. You've got a lot to learn! You will be able to learn most of the basics with the six, and it will be very forgiving. I run a six now, though it has been hopped up just a little... The point is none of the things you've talked about have an application. On most sixes a 500 cfm carb will kill it. A lot of people put 750 cfm carbs on V-8s, then wonder why they seem to have lost power instead of gained. The carb has to be sized to the engine, as already pointed out. I deal mostly with Rambler/AMC/Jeep sixes (all the same, with the exception of the oldest Rambler sixes). The biggest one is a 258. The largest carb used on it is a 500 cfm 4V, but only hard core drag racers use it. It only works well at high rpm. Most of the four wheelers use a Holley 390 cfm 4V, and a few a 450 cfm.

The Ford 200 is a good engine, but the intake is cast into the head. You really can't change carburetors on it. That's one of the limitations to that design. It can still produce decent power. Compare it to a Honda Civic or one of the other small four cylinder cars of today -- that's about how the car will feel (a little better because of the six). Learn to drive it -- it may not last more than a year or two. We were all young once, and most of use can tell you about the wrecks and/or stupid stuff we did with or first cars that led to their demise. Most of us got through it with only minor injuries -- and the real lucky (like me!!) with none. The cars, however.... well, let me say that there aren't that many that still have their first car in great condition. There are a few, but most of the cars are gone. Big plans and cutting/"fixing up" ruined more than one of them due to lack of knowledge/skill and/or funds. Nothing like starting a project that will never get finished!

So take it easy! Get the thing running. Learn to tune it, do your own brake job, and other things. THEN contemplate what you'd like to put under the hood. A turbo on the six would help -- the engine will only suck so much air down that small carb, but you can force a bit more! Not a whole lot, but enough to notice. The fours have larger carbs, actually. They turn a lot more rpm, so they move more air -- the pistons just have to move up and down a lot faster to move it. That's why in-line sixes last so long -- they turn relatively slow in comparison to small fours. That's the main reason US manufacturers in the 60s used small sixes instead of fours -- longevity. Slower turning means fewer warranty calls too.


i know all that jazz.. my dad did all this crap when he was little so i mean i'm following in his footsteps..

hes here to help me..

and i know about the carb is overkill.. i just put out the idea

i'm using a 350 CFM holley

-scott
 
#19 ·
Scott, you say your dad is going to help you.... please do have him read my post about Mustang brakes....

betcha' he will help pay for the parts

complete set of new steel lines from the master to all 4 wheels approx $100
front hoses approx $20 ea
new master cylinder approx $70
wheel cylinders, approx $20
new springs kit approx $10 per wheel
new front wheel bearings while you are in there...approx $8 ea

so for approx $300 (turn the drums, maybe new shoes) you can have all new SAFE brakes

I appreciate how excited you are!
But how would you feel if you killed your best friend riding in the car because the brakes failed!
 
#20 ·
Arrowhead said:
What do you mean by "trimming the towers"? Mine is alomst completely disassembled and I could do it. That won't give me enough room for a 4.6 DOHC will it? :thumbup:

Go to google and insert "Crites shock tower modification"..... you will get lots of information. :thumbup:

This is the modification that was done to the original 62, 63, 64 Thunderbolt cars to fit in an FE, and later the Boss 429 Mustangs. The conversion for 62-65 Fairlanes is similar but different from all the other Fords.

Not sure how wide the DOHC is. It might require a Mustang II suspension conversion.
 
#21 ·
red65mustang said:
Scott, you say your dad is going to help you.... please do have him read my post about Mustang brakes....

betcha' he will help pay for the parts

complete set of new steel lines from the master to all 4 wheels approx $100
front hoses approx $20 ea
new master cylinder approx $70
wheel cylinders, approx $20
new springs kit approx $10 per wheel
new front wheel bearings while you are in there...approx $8 ea

so for approx $300 (turn the drums, maybe new shoes) you can have all new SAFE brakes

I appreciate how excited you are!
But how would you feel if you killed your best friend riding in the car because the brakes failed!


alrighty

well first of all im excited

that my grandpa agreed to let me trade them
i'm excited that brent loves the cars and will pay 300 appice..

but hes charging me 1500 for the mustang..

so thats a 600 diffrence


but i found out today.. that i have another engine and tranny that i didnt know about

so i think that takes care of the rest of it.. :thumbup:

i hope it does

and i'll find out later tonight..

but then all i got left is my dad...

the interior is the first thing i'll do

(wont take me long..) i'll switch it.. one day interior.. next exterior .. next engine.. next interior.. and so on..

then i'll get done faster i hope

and when it gets crunch time.. i'll finish the interior. then focus on engine..
then exterior

..now some one tell he how i can upload these pics
 
#22 ·
well guys i got some info. on the mustang..

the floorpans got to be replaced
the rocker panel has to be replaced
the cowl did leak.. which i suspect rusted allthat^.. and it needs to be fixed

it needs a hood..


6 cly 200 in it..

auto tranny
^that'll go

the seat mounts arent mounted down.. b/c its rusted...

trunk mounts are rusted..

i'm gettin a rust bucket

..but all the parts except for the hood are there

and the gas tank is rusted.. and it has repair parts

now.. all the electronics are gone.. the dash needs to be replaced..

so yeah..

i'm restoring a car

and i;m gettin it for free.. go to my photogallery and see my VW's

-Scott
 
#23 ·
if you want to change from the auto to a manual, you could get a 3.03 3spd for a 6cyl or a V8 but you will need a 6cyl manual bellhousing, and you will need to have a bronze piliot bushing put into the end of the crank snout, the clutch pedal assembly's are easy finds, but you need ALL linkages. check the unibody supports, this car might be too far gone, the way you described it, it has lost a lot of structural integrity and probably is not true sqaure anymore ( rockers gone ), if the unibody supports are rusted and weak, there would be nothing except the roof holding it togther, and if it was bad enough, trying to move the car, could tear it in half.
 
#25 ·
techinspector1 said:
Scott, I posted my feelings on your other thread, but I hope you have come to your senses and keep the V-Dubs. I'll bet the guy you're planning to trade with is frothing at the mouth to get them.

oh yeah.. brent probally by now has a whole ocean full of drool and his jaw polly hurts b/c its been draggin the ground since last night
 
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