|01-29-2007 10:26 PM|
Jack, I just came across this thread, and looks like the guy gave a pretty good outline on using the adhesive, and figured I'd pass it on.
|01-29-2007 04:26 PM|
|kenseth17||I was replying to mels post. I see his said it would harden up whats in the tubes, not the tip. Anyway, if a two part I don't see how that could be a problem either, since both parts are in different cartridges and shouldn't harden if not mixed together, and when the adhesive it will seal things up if the tip is left on, or else you can put back the cap that normally comes on the tubes that you remove to put on your mixing tip.|
|01-29-2007 04:15 PM|
thanks for the advice. it is 2 part. am making all my repair panels before gluing any. mine didn't come with an extra tip but has a small rod to clean out the tip
|01-29-2007 03:09 PM|
|kenseth17||If it was a two part adhesive or seam sealer, of course it is going to harden up in the mixing tip. If 1k sealer, well then you should close the cut end of the caulk tube with some masking tape to seal it back up. I think most packages of panel adhesive come with two tips in the package (at least the stuff we use), but if you have several patches to do, you may want to by some extras so you have them in case you need them. I don't know what working time you have, but have all your stuff ready so you have your pieces ground, then squeeze out your adhesive (little before applying to patch so the two components are properly mixed). Then you will be able to grab your clamps or screws install the patch and have time to clean up any excess if needed. If you plan things right and have long enough working time, you may be able to do more then one small one at a time so you don't use as many mixing tips. There a buck a piece, but can you believe an old boss use to make us clean them by dumping in lacquer thinner and blowing them out with a blow gun into a rag. The time spent cleaning them, probably was just as cheap to buy another tip.|
|01-29-2007 09:13 AM|
use the "search" link on the main board page....type in: panel adhesive....7+ pages of threads on who/what/where/why and "how" on using panel adhesives
|01-29-2007 07:26 AM|
|baddbob||Evercoat has panel adhesive that works in a regular calking gun. Fuzor gets my vote.|
|01-29-2007 06:32 AM|
i bought fusor seam sealer. same price. same problem no directions at all. back to supplier, no help. put tip on and the stuff run out ,tried to apply to seams and it ran out the other side. my garage floor is sealed. for that much $$ there should be a little instructions. one thing when you finish using it HANG IT UP WITH TIP DOWN or it will harden what is left in the tubes..
|01-29-2007 05:01 AM|
I haven't had any problems yet. Was just hesitant to start because of the cost. Have started making patches. will begin with the smallest soon.
|01-28-2007 07:14 PM|
|kenseth17||So what instructions are you having problems with? You having problems using the gun somehow, or don't understand how to use the adhesive and make the repairs?|
|01-28-2007 06:57 PM|
Thanks kenseth17. You were correct, thee adhesive gun was about $125
of the total 162. one problem is each different type of adhesive uses a different gun. I purchased "large panel adhesive" because the gun was among the least expensive. Some guns were about $350
|01-28-2007 05:51 PM|
Yeah but did you buy the gun harry, those can be pricey and extra mixing tips if needed add up too.
What are you having problems with? Its not too hard really. First make sure the replacement piece fits well and then grind the mating areas. Squeeze an inch or so out of the gun and mixing tip onto a piece of cardboard or something and throw that away, before applying to your mating surfaces. (need to do this so you are using well mixed material on your piece) Apply a good bead and clamp in several places the piece into place while the adhesive cures, or if you can't get clamps screw it into place. The clamping gives it strength. As long as you applied a decent bead and it squeezes to cover the seam, the seam should be protected by the adhesive. Grind or sand your patch area down to metal and you can do normal filler work to finish it off, or better yet spray epoxy primer on the area and do your filler work over that.
Don't forget to spray protection on the backside of the repair if you have bare metal. I think even if you sprayed epoxy primer on the pieces and roughed it up where you were applying adhesive it would adhere fine also if used where you will have little access after patched to the backside. There are many different adhesive and what they are used for may vary, but generally the procedures are similar but cure and working times may be different. Go here for some procedures of working with panel adhesives. Or maybe look at 3m's site and maybe they have similar instructions.
|01-28-2007 05:36 PM|
$162 ??? hey I am cheap, I have used it , don't know what brand, but it was NOT that expensive for a tube !!!
|01-28-2007 02:06 PM|
using panel adhesive
I just bought some 3m panel adhesive and an applicator gun. it was expensive($162) total. But I have never seen it being used and the instructions are not that helpful. does any one have pictures and/or pointers? I have some holes to patch with new metal in all of the fenders on a 48 ford truck