|02-17-2007 07:47 AM|
|DanTwoLakes||PVC foamboard can be heated and formed to the shape you want, but why not use the tops of the old panels, combine that with new lower panels and save yourself a giant headache? I assume the tops of the old panels are metal, right?|
|02-15-2007 04:06 AM|
I faced the same problem with my S-10. I ended up using the stock panel after cutting out the “lumps”. My goal was to have a flat clean looking door panel. After cutting out the undesired shapes I used ¼” masonite to fill in the gaps and make the panel flat. By using the stock panel most all the stock mounting (outer edge) points were available. There’s a picture in my Project Journal. The armrest was shaped from a piece of pine board then covered with closed cell foam and vinyl. The armrest is attached from the back with T-Nuts and 3 bolts. The door panel is covered with closed cell foam and tweed.
|02-14-2007 10:31 PM|
(516) Drum Co.
|04-23-2002 06:42 PM|
|patgizz||take the old panel and graft that part onto the new one|
|04-21-2002 09:00 PM|
|Halloweenking||First of all Orange county is a great place, secondly you could use sheetmetal but it would be heavy and noisy, I say either use fiberglass, mold it over some aluminum flashing, it will peel right off of the fiberglass, or you could use some urethane plastic you can get in a 4'x8' sheet for about $50 at a plastic supply place.|
|04-21-2002 08:40 PM|
Another custom door panel question
In my 1970 Coupe de Ville ive decided to toss the stock door panels and fabricate some custom ones. As far as the majority of the panel i know exactly what to do... but im still going to have one problem. i only know how to make flat panels. once mounted this will leave me with about a 2 inch gap between the top of the panel and the bottom of the window. im sure there has got to be something i can use like a thin piece of sheet metal i can bend...then seal the whole thing together. but if anyone has a better suggestion please let me know. i dont want this to turn into another nightmare.