|12-05-2013 07:04 AM|
I want a 4x4 that sits slightly lower than these, so I'm going to try the later chassis, such as a 2000 or newer. We'll see how it goes.
|12-01-2013 10:53 AM|
|Oregonite||I've heard that the older '69-'72 K5 Blazer running gear works great.|
|11-30-2013 11:24 PM|
|dsraven||for 2 wheel drive the tread width is 60.75 front, 61.02 rear. this is from the assembly manual. tread width appears to be the centre line of the tread where it contacts the road surface. don't know if that does you any good or not, but hopefully you get something figured out.|
|11-30-2013 10:49 PM|
NAPCO link and a source for good info
Bill, here's a link to a NAPCO organization that you may may helpful;The NAPCO 4x4 Homepage
Also a member/contributor to this thread 57halfton(Gene) has built (converted) one before and may be able to give you some tips on what to use, etc. Nolan
|11-30-2013 10:07 PM|
I am looking to convert one to 4x4 and was looking for dimensions of hub to hub to get a more accurate dimension.
Thanks again Bill
|11-30-2013 07:27 PM|
Cl to cl
Bill, the front tread width is 60 1/2" center to center, the rear is 61" center to center. Here is a link to the original specifications;
1956 Chevrolet Specifications
|11-30-2013 05:09 PM|
|11-30-2013 04:48 PM|
1955 - 1959 Front and rear end width wms to wms
Hello I've been looking everywhere, well everywhere but where the info is, for the front and rear end wms to wms width of the 55-59 trucks.
Thanks for your help
|11-12-2013 12:57 PM|
:thum bup:: thumbup::thumb up:
|11-11-2013 06:15 PM|
|cal1320||Maybe not near death, just sleeping. Loads of info in this thread for those that need it. Nothing to really do on mine except keep driving it as often as possible. Even though it's a beater, it never fails to attract questions and from people.|
|11-10-2013 02:43 PM|
bringing this thread back from a near death experience
winter project list...
high beam head light relay
fine tune cruise control (adjust dip switches) which involves removing the console and getting at the control box
maybe some touch up paint (it's a driver)
book rooms for 2014 hot rod power tour
|08-12-2013 10:26 AM|
What youíre saying makes sense. I guess I will bite the bullet and have to replace it.
Sorry to hear about your back run of luck on those parts. Itís hard to tell when looking at some of the remanufactured parts, if they are good quality or not.
|08-10-2013 10:26 AM|
|ogre||i'd think that if your still getting air, the pump is bad. no way to induce air into the system from the rack, probably a spring and check ball installed wrong. the only place you could suck air into the system is the shaft seal on the pump, but it would have to have a blockage in the suction side in the pump. the way they rebuild stuff is getting ridiculous. my ps pump lasted 2 yrs and took out my rack when it went. also took two mc to get one that worked.|
|08-09-2013 05:54 PM|
Power Steering continued
I took the shims from 4 (850 psi as recommended by literature on the Ford rack) down to 2 shims (1100 psi according to Borgeson chart)
A small difference but no where close to "power steering".
My Italian mother in-law says to use olive oil but I didn't take her advice.
Cranked it from lock to lock at least 30 times and air is still coming up in the reservoir, but no leaks.
Hmmm! Any other thoughts? Its a rebuilt pump, I wonder if it is bad.
|08-01-2013 12:18 PM|
That's kind of what I was wondering about.
Yesterday as I was turning the wheels from lock to lock I noticed that the tires were hitting the sway bar so they were not able to fully extend in each direction. (An unexpected problem I am going to have to look into.) I took off the tires/wheels and have been turning the wheel from extreme to extreme. Its still a little "jumpy", but it feels like it is getting better.
I think I am going to continue this process for a little while longer and then I will try increase the pressure by removing a washer of two.
Thanks for helping out. I will let you know what the results are.
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