|04-04-2007 10:25 AM|
The 1968 302 4V is already 10:0 to 1 from the factory. You only need to open the exhaust ports on the heads. If one was to use either 289 HI-PO or later 351W exhaust manifolds, it should not be that noticeable. That and the new dualing exhaust will make a lot of difference.
Ditto on the 1.12 AUTOLITE...
Do you have the 4100 or the 4300 Series? It could be either on the 68.
Now...did you ever see the SHELBY accessories catalog for the COUGAR?
I just have to aggravate a little...
|04-04-2007 09:19 AM|
|Brazz_04||Well i think i've gathered some geat information to make a good decision. Thanks for all the help ill try to get back to you all on how things go. Thanks for everything!|
|04-04-2007 08:13 AM|
I think you are on the right track, with small mods. the gears will do more for you than anything. I would have 1.94 int and 1.60 ex valves put in the heads. the porting is going to be expensive on iron heads. i would also mill them .045to. 060 for more compression. A set of headers will help, but are they worth the work, and expense? duals ,of course. i like the aod idea. if you have the 4100 series autolite, you might want to go to the larger carb it will have 112 on the left side of the ft float bowl, yours should read 108, if it is a autolite.the petronix is good. herbert has a good street cam that is .475/.500 lift, with adv, duration of 275/285. I have used over 50 of these cams and everyone was satisfied.
|04-04-2007 07:42 AM|
I was curious so I plugged in some #'s
typical mild build 302=269 FWHP/302 TQ at peak
same motor at 331 cubes= 270 FWHP/328 TQ at peak
not "exact" but the approx 30ft/lbs more is evenly distributed across the whole rpm range....curves are parallel(?)
alot cheaper and way simpler to swap rear gears to gain ft/lbs at the rear wheels
302ftlbsx3.00 gears=906 ftlbs at the rear wheels
328ftlbsx3.00 gears=984 ftlbs at the rear wheels
spend the 331 $$$$ on a AOD and have the best of both
it's TQ that makes a fun street car....
|04-04-2007 06:45 AM|
|ap72||Stroking wil help more in your TQ numbers than your HP since your heads will limit your HP- that being said I would go with a 331, a VooDoo256 cam with high ratio rockers, port the heads and intake, swap to headers and dual 2.25" manderal exhaust, and aftermarket ignition of your choice. It won't make huge HP numbers but it will definitely add a lot of low end torque- I would be suprised to see close to a 100 FTLB difference at the peak (at the flywheel).|
|04-04-2007 12:30 AM|
|KULTULZ||The stroking is OK. Just consider the cost of the kit.|
|04-03-2007 09:04 PM|
|Brazz_04||Yes it is a 4V 302 from 68. And i already have the pertronix 2 installed so what do you think with the stroking? it's been rebuilt last year and i guess i just want a couple more ponies so i think you're on the right track. Thanks I just love the original look...it's a surprise im saying that at 20 years old!!!|
|04-03-2007 07:25 PM|
Yes, it can be done. Talk to a cam manufacturer for a cam recommendation. Working the exhaust ports on the heads will be a large help. A quality mandrel bent dualing exhaust system. Rework the distributor and install a PERTRONIX II (according to instructions), re-jet the carb and it will be a nice street engine.
This is the 68 302 4V correct?
|04-03-2007 05:03 PM|
Ford 302 build
I'm in a unique i guess you would say situation. I have a 1968 Mercury Cougar with a 302 and i want to build ita little. The car is completely original and i would like to keep the original motor in it but i would like to give it a little more smoke production power!! The thing is i'd love to keep the original carb, heads and intake on it. So what do you think is a way to do this or is it a waste of time? I'm thinking of porting, a little bigger cam, and possibly stroking it to something like 331?? I just wanted a little feedback to get some ideas rolling. Thanks for all the help!!