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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-10-2007 04:04 PM
chevymastermind
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathRattle
Might I add you will like that MSD streetfire distributor. Very good distributor for the money. Almost unbeatable.
ya exept summit racing sent it to me with a cracked cap and wont send me another cap because they said that i must have cracked it (im thinking its UPS's fault)!!!
04-10-2007 03:54 PM
DeathRattle Might I add you will like that MSD streetfire distributor. Very good distributor for the money. Almost unbeatable.
04-10-2007 03:41 PM
chevymastermind ya this is there accual reasearah and development enginethat they built to test new products hear are the specs! and they dynoed it and every thing!

Specs:
Dyno proven horsepower rating of 370.21 @ 5662RPM and 409.1 Ft. Lbs. of tourque @ 3900RPM and with only 9.23:1 Compresion ratio! and it has over 400 Ft. Lbs. of tourque from 3,200-4,300 RPM!

Engine specs:
350 4bolt main bored .030 to 355cid
steal crank (3.48" stroke)
Sealed power flat top -5cc flat top
Speed pro piston rings
Stock rods with Milodon chromoly Rod bolts
all felpro gaskets
heads are chevy heads with a stage 2 port job
Manley Stainless steel valves 2.02int. 1.50 ex.
Comp cams roller tip rocker arms 1.6 ratio int. 1.5 ratio ex.
z-28 valve springs
Comp cams XE268 camshaft
Moroso Chrome oil pan
Moroso Chrome valve covers
comp cams 84000 series lifters, which are very strong and expencive


i painted it chevy orange it was originally black!
04-09-2007 08:03 PM
Blazin72 You shouldn't have any problem with their work. They're a little more expensive but I'd rather pay more and have the work done by them than some other places. A friend of mine has taken a couple engines of his to one of the some other machine shops that shall remain unnamed and they've been dickering with him over both engines. They lost the connecting rods to one of them.

I have a 400 block at P.E.D. right now, when I dropped it off they said the only way they were accepting any new work is if I was willing to wait 7-8 weeks. I'm on week 6 now so I'll give them a couple more weeks then give them a call to see if they've made it to mine yet.
04-09-2007 07:35 PM
chevymastermind
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blazin72
Who is it that did the work? I know of a few shops in the area. Some good, some not so good...
it was P.E.D. (performance engine development down on river road. my dad had his vette engine built there and ran exelent!
04-08-2007 11:50 PM
Detroit Muscle in NZ
oil pump

When turning the pump they can be fairly ratly until oil goes into pump they quieten up heaps then but can still be a litle clatery. Does it turn without any notches or tight spots. You need to put an old dissy or proper priming tool in as your main oil gallery is open with out it and you cant pressurize the whole system properly. Also may be your oil pump pick up is touching sump making more noise than normal,dont know just an idea cheers
04-08-2007 10:03 PM
Deuce

Go read this thread from a few days ago ... it explains HOW the screwdriver is NOT a good way to prime the engine ...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/new-...ng-113033.html

Deuce ... Moderator
04-08-2007 09:42 PM
Blazin72 Who is it that did the work? I know of a few shops in the area. Some good, some not so good...
04-08-2007 09:37 PM
chevymastermind
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathRattle
And are you using a oil drive shaft with a steel sleeve or plastic?

what an oil drive shaft? i didnt build the bottom end but it was done by a local engine shop as there R&D engine! (that built the miss budweiser hydro plane engines) so im guessing which ever one is better? but not sure?
04-08-2007 09:33 PM
chevymastermind ya ive got a west bay auto that sells them so ill try that! thank you
04-08-2007 08:39 PM
Blazin72 That noise could be bearings, valvetrain or both. Like you said, only priming the pump isn't going to supply the entire engine with oil on initial startup. When doing it that way you're leaving the oil pump to move oil to critical parts of engine on initial startup. The noise will probably go away as pressure builds but you'd be putting unnecessary wear on the engine early in its life. In order to help prevent this you need to use a priming tool or modify an old distributor as previously suggested and prime the engine with a drill.
04-08-2007 08:27 PM
DeathRattle Do you have an old distributor laying around? OR Do you have local access to a speed shop that would sell the proper tool?
And are you using a oil drive shaft with a steel sleeve or plastic?
04-08-2007 08:21 PM
chevymastermind
chevy 350 oil pump priming noise?

ok this is the first time i've builtan engine and i went to go prime the oil pump (with a long screw driver) and some oil came out of a hole on the back of the engine! oops! i need an oil pressure guage! ok so i got that installed it along with the water temp guage. and when i started turing it again it was making a weird clicking noise? what is that? did i screw up in not using a proper oil pump priming tool. and i do relize that im not going to get oil threw the whole engine this way (without a drill) but i just wanted to prime the pump! WHAT IS THAT NOISE? ?? please help! respond very quickly so i can get my nova on the road!

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