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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-01-2008 04:48 PM
OHD BG tech

Telling people to they are to modify a carb makes you look silly while telling people they can not disassemble a fuel pump for maintenance.....

a full retail, list price quantity one, 2.55 seal, you charge 25.00, installed of course...with FREE LABOR. Real good way to promote your pump that needs new seals every racing season...

Futhermore at a cost of $179 is MORE than your cost, on those BG400 fuel pumps, Brand New...so even replacing the whole unit you do not lose any money....under your FREE LIFETIME LABOR WARRANTY

That is why people go to Weldon, Product Engineering, Magnaflow, Aeromotive,etc for quality and you get the "uneducated", low ball, price shoppers...with these type "problems"..
09-30-2008 11:49 PM
CNC-Dude
Quote:
Originally Posted by sbchevfreak
Sometimes quality contol issues happen, and a certain number of production units go out with a flaw. Mechanical error and plain human error can and do cause this. Carb stud holes drilled oversize? It happens. Notify the manufacturer in a civil and professional way, and see what happens. Water neck doesn't fit? Mispick maybe, get the straight one you need. If that doesn't fit YOUR MODIFIED CAR, it's not BG's problem. That is hotrodding. Making something fit where it was never designed to. Should a $3000.00 part fit right? Yes, but issues do happen.

As for pumps, how many vehicle manufacturers will warrenty an engine overhaul that you did yourself, in your garage? OHD, you may very well be able to properly do the pump job yourself, but you are one in tens of thousands. They have a blanket policy so that the other 9,999 people who can't do it right don't screw it up.

BG has had quality control issues, but come on, so has almost every other parts manufacturer. Holley had warpage on metering blocks right out of the box, and trash in passages as well. I had to overhaul more than one "new" carb, just to get it to run properly, due to customers needing it right away and not being able to wait for the turnaround. It shouldn't becom the norm, but hiccups do happen, and we do have to live with them.
Well spoken! #1-Notify manufacturer of problem in a professional tone(email pics of problem also helpful to them). #2-Give manufacturer reasonable amount of time to respond to issue or defect! #3-Give manufacturer reasonable amount of time to access the issue once they respond and realize there is an issue! #4-Never give ultimatums, only reasonable solutions as to how you would like to see issue resolved(still using a professional tone)! #5-Remember, you will never be out your investment(cash), return for refund is always an option, if you feel the issue isn't going to be resolved in your favor! #6-In all fairness,give manufacturer every opportunity to resolve issue in a reasonable time frame, before you make comments on forums without having all the answers yourself! #7-Most importantly, you can always speak to someone higher up the chain if you feel you are not getting a fair shake. Get a SEMA directory, and listed in it are all the CEO's and "Big Dogs" email addresses and contact info of all the companies that are members of SEMA! #8- #7 works everytime!
09-30-2008 04:27 PM
CNC-Dude
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmark
Trying to stay on track with the original topic of this thread, I agree that the quality seems to be poor and a lot of mis-machining has been passed off as "acceptable". I went through a similar problem with a set of Pro Topline heads. My sons first engine. Spent the big bucks on the heads. Guess what, tons of problems. As stated by others, pushrods not fitting was the biggest problem, along with ports that were so far off it was rediculous.

My complaint was almost identical to the one here. When you spend big bucks, you expect a better product. AND since most manufacturers are now using CNC equipment, there is NO excuse for a crappy product to make it out the door. I could see misdrilled holes or whatever if some guy was drilling them by hand but on CNC parts, it should be close enough to go on the space shuttle!

CNC has now made it into the woodworking industry (my field) and the accuracy is increadable. I have a program here (free) that if I had a CNC pin router, I could build things to machinist tollerances.....out of WOOD!

There is just NO excuse for crappy parts when someone is paying big bucks from a big buck company, who ever it is!

Lets hope this problem gets resolved in a positive manner. We all know that "things happen", but this seems a little over the top.


Mark
I know from experience myself with CNC eqiupment, its only as good as the operator, as is most machinery!
09-30-2008 12:40 PM
sbchevfreak Sometimes quality contol issues happen, and a certain number of production units go out with a flaw. Mechanical error and plain human error can and do cause this. Carb stud holes drilled oversize? It happens. Notify the manufacturer in a civil and professional way, and see what happens. Water neck doesn't fit? Mispick maybe, get the straight one you need. If that doesn't fit YOUR MODIFIED CAR, it's not BG's problem. That is hotrodding. Making something fit where it was never designed to. Should a $3000.00 part fit right? Yes, but issues do happen.

As for pumps, how many vehicle manufacturers will warrenty an engine overhaul that you did yourself, in your garage? OHD, you may very well be able to properly do the pump job yourself, but you are one in tens of thousands. They have a blanket policy so that the other 9,999 people who can't do it right don't screw it up.

BG has had quality control issues, but come on, so has almost every other parts manufacturer. Holley had warpage on metering blocks right out of the box, and trash in passages as well. I had to overhaul more than one "new" carb, just to get it to run properly, due to customers needing it right away and not being able to wait for the turnaround. It shouldn't becom the norm, but hiccups do happen, and we do have to live with them.
09-30-2008 12:27 PM
Tech @ BG
Quote:
Originally Posted by PutPut72
Everyone, please don't get all pissed, but a bit to the side of the subject, I think Car Craft did an article on the different manifold/carb setups. They tested the Six Shooter Barry grant, reg tri power, 4 and 2 barrels on hi,tunnel,duel plane, and low hood clearance manifolds. The grant wasn't even close to the top of the power tree but it does look cool. FYI the manifold that won was a Edelbrock RPM Airgap with a 750 grant mech secondaries..... sure wish I could find the article though.
In a lot of cases depending upon the application the Six Shooter is not going to make more hp then a properly matched up single 4 barrel and conventional intake but it was not intended to. I can tell you the Demon carb and single 4 will make more power then the comparable Edel carb all day long and also that the Pontiac Six Shooter made 65hp more than a stock Pontiac tri-power in independant testing. Each case will be different however. Several benefits of the Triple Induction are that most see better fuel mileage yet still have the performance when needed ,drivability is improved and you get the cool factor when you go to a cruise in and raise the hood just to name a few.
09-30-2008 12:16 PM
PutPut72 Everyone, please don't get all pissed, but a bit to the side of the subject, I think Car Craft did an article on the different manifold/carb setups. They tested the Six Shooter Barry grant, reg tri power, 4 and 2 barrels on hi,tunnel,duel plane, and low hood clearance manifolds. The grant wasn't even close to the top of the power tree but it does look cool. FYI the manifold that won was a Edelbrock RPM Airgap with a 750 grant mech secondaries..... sure wish I could find the article though.
09-30-2008 11:53 AM
Tech @ BG
Quote:
Originally Posted by C-10
Hey Tech@BG, thanks for being on this BB. It's a good gesture. Some people do not realize that you joined HR by choice.

Keep up the good work.
Thanks, we participate in quite a number of boards and have been able to help many. That alone makes it worth the effort. We also realize that you are never going to make everyone happy but we try to take care of as many as possible. You are also going to have guys spin their story or their issue and leave out pertinent information to try and make their case but even with some of them we have been able to help as well.
09-30-2008 11:38 AM
Tech @ BG
Quote:
Originally Posted by OHD
BG tech

"The pumps carry a lifetime labor warranty and all the customer pays for is parts costs plus the return shipping. We have an obligation to ensure that the pump is up to the original flow standards so guys do not go out and hurt an engine"

Example of last 2 we had serviced one by BG on on our bench

here are the breakdowns

Sent to Bg for "free larbor lifetime service"
parts 58.60 inbound shipping 10.00 return shipping 16.80 turnaround 2 weeks

Total cost 85.40 without pump 3 weeks ONE PUMP SERVICE

Seal and oring on our bench
parts 8.00 (same manufacturers oring and seal) time 28 mins in and out of car

Both pumps serviced by us, for last 3 years, total cost of servicing less than

70.00 including replacing BG "one way" screws with tamper proof torque ss fastners... That is 70.00 for 6 PUMP services......

It does not take a rocket scientist to figure out where the "Bg free lifetime labor" is paid...............YOUR SMALL PARTS MARGINS ARE OUTRAGEOUS...

We replaced your BG400s with WELDONS, with our savings, and will never come back....after being a customer since the middle 80s
So you posted a question just so you could turn around and slam us...nice. We are here though to help those that actually need assistance and that is why we post and answer questions.

You would be incorrect that your 8.00 seal is the one we are using now as for quite a number of months we have been using an improved walrus seal. If you were charged 58.60 for parts then your pump needed and received more than just a seal which is what I eluded to above in my answer to you.

Here's a little math for you.... if a BG400 needs to be completely rebuilt and requires a motor it only costs 179.00 + shipping to do so while the cost for a replacement is 414.00 . Still looks fair to me .

As I mentioned in my original post you already knew the answer when you asked the question but by your response to my answer I think it will be clear to the others as well. Like I said, we are here to help those who have legitimate issues and will continue to do such as we have in the past.

Just as a reference though for those who may need a pump or regulator repaired ,we are trying to turn these around in 7 business days from the time they hit our receiving department. As of September 1st any pump that is here longer then that will be repaired at no charge.
09-30-2008 11:21 AM
OHD BG tech

"The pumps carry a lifetime labor warranty and all the customer pays for is parts costs plus the return shipping. We have an obligation to ensure that the pump is up to the original flow standards so guys do not go out and hurt an engine"

Example of last 2 we had serviced one by BG on on our bench

here are the breakdowns

Sent to Bg for "free larbor lifetime service"
parts 58.60 inbound shipping 10.00 return shipping 16.80 turnaround 2 weeks

Total cost 85.40 without pump 3 weeks ONE PUMP SERVICE

Seal and oring on our bench
parts 8.00 (same manufacturers oring and seal) time 28 mins in and out of car

Both pumps serviced by us, for last 3 years, total cost of servicing less than

70.00 including replacing BG "one way" screws with tamper proof torque ss fastners... That is 70.00 for 6 PUMP services......

It does not take a rocket scientist to figure out where the "Bg free lifetime labor" is paid...............YOUR SMALL PARTS MARGINS ARE OUTRAGEOUS...

We replaced your BG400s with WELDONS, with our savings, and will never come back....after being a customer since the middle 80s
09-30-2008 10:44 AM
C-10 Hey Tech@BG, thanks for being on this BB. It's a good gesture. Some people do not realize that you joined HR by choice.

Keep up the good work.
09-30-2008 07:55 AM
Tech @ BG
Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn
hide under a cloak of darkness.


hey look i say again. i bought one. kept it. tried to get what i could out of it. they look very impressive.

you have a fanbase, keep going. make more cool products.
No hiding, just trying to stay professional about it.
09-30-2008 07:54 AM
Tech @ BG
Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn
top- this isnt body work, chopping up hotrods to make things fit. its a precision calibrated component. the recommended carb could NOT adjust to my idle calibration. my engine doesnt need 18 intial mechanical timming. that would hurt driveability and the vacuum advance's ability to alter timming for part throttle power. 18-20 inital will be hard starting especially hot.

i should have built my engine around your carb. that was your real recommendation.
http://automotiveu.com/tuningperformance.htm
09-30-2008 07:44 AM
spinn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech @ BG
I think some of the other members have summed this up and I will leave it at that.
hide under a cloak of darkness.


hey look i say again. i bought one. kept it. tried to get what i could out of it. they look very impressive.

you have a fanbase, keep going. make more cool products.
09-30-2008 07:39 AM
spinn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech @ BG
Not at all but that is a BASIC function of setting timing. Why do you think the vacuum has to be disconected prior to setting it? Our base timing recommendations are with the vacuum disconnected as our anyone elses.
top- this isnt body work, chopping up hotrods to make things fit. its a precision calibrated component. the recommended carb could NOT adjust to my idle calibration. my engine doesnt need 18 intial mechanical timming. that would hurt driveability and the vacuum advance's ability to alter timming for part throttle power. 18-20 inital will be hard starting especially hot.

i should have built my engine around your carb. that was your real recommendation.
09-30-2008 07:20 AM
Tech @ BG
Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn
you disagree with the additional vacuum advance?
Not at all but that is a BASIC function of setting timing. Why do you think the vacuum has to be disconected prior to setting it? Our base timing recommendations are with the vacuum disconnected as our anyone elses.
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