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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-29-2007 07:47 PM
jrm123180 Thanks guys, I got it up an running and seems to be running great after replacing all four of the exhaust valves. I'm going to have the head redone after the season. Also had the carb rebuilt too and it seems to be running great.

thanks again for all of your help.

steve
06-14-2007 07:57 AM
brian0605
Quote:
Originally Posted by PatM
Brian.
I've used the drill motor too. Chuck it on the valve stem, pull gently, and let 'er rip.

BTW -- When you're angry at design engineers, please, don't let me get close. I do a little tooling design, and contribute some to product design. . . . .Anyway, I hope the work on the boat is progressing well.

Sounds like you and your dad are both really good "wrenches." My dad and I are both OK, but just hobbiests. He's gone now, but like you, watching my dad was where I got the confidence to do this stuff. And to experiment a little.

Bye . . . . Pat
Yep that's how we do too. He taught me to gently run the valve back and forth. Pretty much like the way the valve opens and closes during normal use. It helps keep the lapping compound on the valve face and seat, since it has a tendency to get pushed out of the way. Thanks Pat I always enjoy a good conversation with a fellow car nut. Brian
06-14-2007 07:34 AM
PatM Brian.
I've used the drill motor too. Chuck it on the valve stem, pull gently, and let 'er rip.

BTW -- When you're angry at design engineers, please, don't let me get close. I do a little tooling design, and contribute some to product design. . . . .Anyway, I hope the work on the boat is progressing well.

Sounds like you and your dad are both really good "wrenches." My dad and I are both OK, but just hobbiests. He's gone now, but like you, watching my dad was where I got the confidence to do this stuff. And to experiment a little.

Bye . . . . Pat
06-13-2007 07:18 PM
brian0605
Quote:
Originally Posted by PatM
I too recommend the machine shop route. You'll likely be bucks ahead.
BUT . . . If the machine shop route is out of the question, and you are installing new valves, take a little extra time and put some lapping compound on ALL the valves, and using a lapping tool (suction cup on a stick) seat/reseat each and every valve. That way, at least you'll be sure that the valves that you are putting in won't be leaking (causing wire-cracking) from the moment you start 'er up. Also, you mentioned warpage on the valve you used to trial fit . . . . .Lapping will help to cure that, as well, if it's not too bad. IF it's bad, you need a new valve there too. After lapping, carefully clean with a good solvent, flushing out the port well. Use bluing, if you can find some, to verify that the the seat and valve are indeed contacting 360deg.

(Edit -- Brian, I just finished reading your post to the end. Funny how we seem to often think alike, at least on this thread. I think you've got some experience with hand lapping, eh??? Mine came on a TR-3. Worked well for a couple years. I think this is a Chevy II 4-banger. Not an overhead cam, so unless the chain broke, or jumped a good number of teeth, interference would not be a question.)

Pat
You're right about that Pat!! I have a electric drill motor technique my dad showed me when I was about 10 or 11. He's been an ASE tech for 35 Plus years. Not much I haven't seen him fix. I got the same knack. I can usually take anything apart and fix it but sometimes things are just to broke to fix. I have been in the diesel mechanic field for 10 years and am now a fleet mechanic, in the past I worked on everything from 60ft yachts to 6 in gorman rupp trash water pumps to 18 wheelers to weed eaters. I have had a wide variety of experience. I usually enjoy my work, then there are those times I would like to strangle a design engineer for building some of the crap they do and locating components in some of the places they do. Well gotta go get ready for work!!! See ya Brian
06-13-2007 07:53 AM
PatM JRM--
Be sure to let us know what you decide and what the results are. Inquiring minds want to know.

Pat
06-11-2007 11:59 AM
matt167 my dad had a '73 Starcraft with the 140 engine, which is the same as the 120, just bigger displacement. the 120 is 151 CI, the 140 is 181 CI, both Chevy engines. his carb never worked right and it got to the point, it would hesitate over 2k, it was a rochester 2bbl. also, those engines need 91 octane, there like 10.0:1 compression.
06-11-2007 11:30 AM
hyarbour
re: help with my boat please

The machine shop could be cheaper in ther long run. If you're running someplace where the Coast Guard operates they can tow you in if you break down, unless there's a commercial slavage company in the area. (and the CG safety inspections aren't that bad, unless you're drunk or stoned)
Commercial salvage companies can easily charge $1200 (or more) to tow you and the CG can't touch you unless you're in danger. They really have a racket going.
It's your choice, a couple hundred to get your head reworked, or a couple grand to have someone tow you.
06-11-2007 07:48 AM
PatM I too recommend the machine shop route. You'll likely be bucks ahead.
BUT . . . If the machine shop route is out of the question, and you are installing new valves, take a little extra time and put some lapping compound on ALL the valves, and using a lapping tool (suction cup on a stick) seat/reseat each and every valve. That way, at least you'll be sure that the valves that you are putting in won't be leaking (causing wire-cracking) from the moment you start 'er up. Also, you mentioned warpage on the valve you used to trial fit . . . . .Lapping will help to cure that, as well, if it's not too bad. IF it's bad, you need a new valve there too. After lapping, carefully clean with a good solvent, flushing out the port well. Use bluing, if you can find some, to verify that the the seat and valve are indeed contacting 360deg.

(Edit -- Brian, I just finished reading your post to the end. Funny how we seem to often think alike, at least on this thread. I think you've got some experience with hand lapping, eh??? Mine came on a TR-3. Worked well for a couple years. I think this is a Chevy II 4-banger. Not an overhead cam, so unless the chain broke, or jumped a good number of teeth, interference would not be a question.)

Pat
06-10-2007 06:24 PM
brian0605
Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM
Take that head to a good machine shop and let them rebuild it. They will clean it, check it for cracks. IF it is not cracked then they can do all the machine work to put the head like new. If that head is cracked and there is a good chance that it is. All you are doing is wasting a lot of money and boating time. You won't be sorry that you fixed it right the first time.
That's what I would do now but, I haven't always had the money to.I think he's trying to get buy as cheap as possible. Which if your not careful can actually cost you money in the end. But sometimes you can get by. Especially if he gets it running and doesn't push the ole engine to hard he might get a couple of years out of it. My question is what was the root cause of this failure?? I can't remember if this is a interference engine??Did the valves stick and when he went to crank it the first time this season they bent?? Or did he overheat it enough last season and warp them, just seems like he would have had more wrong than just the valves and it probably would have not been able to get it up on a plane. Are there any marks on the pistons?? JRM do you know how to home/shade tree lap the valves? I would also dress the others as well. Let us know how it's going???And good luck!!! Brian
06-10-2007 05:36 PM
RPM Take that head to a good machine shop and let them rebuild it. They will clean it, check it for cracks. IF it is not cracked then they can do all the machine work to put the head like new. If that head is cracked and there is a good chance that it is. All you are doing is wasting a lot of money and boating time. You won't be sorry that you fixed it right the first time.
06-10-2007 03:57 PM
T-bucket23 While you have the head off you would be wise to send it out to be redone. They can check it for warping and re-seat or replace the valves as needed. It will be money well invested in my opinion. Probably not more than the cost of a good gasket set and if it isnt right you will be tearing it down again.
06-10-2007 01:43 PM
jrm123180 I removed the #1 & #2(good) valve the compare them....the #2 sits fine in #1 and thatvalve itself IS warped. I'm going to go and get 2 new ones to replace #1&4. The cyls look fine, not scoring or anything.

Hope to have it back up and running y the end of the week.

THanks again...I'll keep u posted as to how it runs when I get it back in the water.
06-10-2007 09:39 AM
cliff tate
stuck valves

i would remove the rockers on 1 and 4 spray wd40 on the valves of 1 and 4 like threw the spring coils then use a hamer(handel end and tap the valves, you may not get full movement at first but resevere . when you get full movement re inst rockers start and like the marine chap sead sqirt oil down the card use a sqirt can, when you get heavey smoke that shoul cure the problem if it is a stuck valve
06-10-2007 09:15 AM
brian0605 Around here to get a head reworked is 80 to 100$$ plus parts. which is not really that bad. Now how do the cylinders look???Brian
06-08-2007 08:13 PM
jrm123180 Thanks....I put a timing gun on the boat and have it set at 8*. I was looking and I believe the temp gauge wasn't working properly that day. I had a ground wire disconeccted behind the dash and some others loose (I was screwing around under there earlier that day)...until I fixed that issue, odd things were happeneing like the horn wasn't working and when I would hit the horn switch, the gas gauge would shut off.

Since then, I did replace my thermostate which was rusted pretty bad and I have not had any issues....as a matter of fact, it seems to be runnig cooler.

I have determined that I have valve problems...by looking at them, they are in pretty rough shape, now i need to replace those two....I'm hoping its not too much money to send the head out and have the whole thing done professinaly...i it is, I'm just going to replace the bad valves myself.
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