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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-26-2009 10:55 AM
deadbodyman
mag weld

old red you sound like a real pro.i guess im not in such a rush to try it.i took a two year course in pipe fitting at 45years old just so i could to tig at my shop although i graduated top of the class i know nothing compared to you guys thanks for keeping me grounded
02-26-2009 10:48 AM
NEW INTERIORS I have to say,After All my years of being a welder,This is the best one I have ever heard...
02-26-2009 10:43 AM
oldred I have spent many years welding very heavy sections, sometimes well over a foot thick, where magnetism is a common problem and have dealt with this by using just about every method in the book. I just can not imagine intentionally placing a magnet near a weld! While it is fairly common to run into magnetism on these heavy parts it is very rare to do so on anything likely to be encountered with the type of welding most people here will be doing so it makes little sense to create a problem where there is none.
02-26-2009 05:55 AM
pepi
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrocorsair
Man!! after reading this thread, its incredible the amount of witch-doctory and misconception going on with welding.
By putting a magnet anywhere near your weld zone, you are asking for spatter burns. You want to keep magnets as far away as possible with welds because the arc responds negatively to magnetic pull and turns into a bull whip, throwing gobs of liquid steel all over the place.

Lee
very good information, I have wondered about this very thing, but never knew what to look for ....... thanks for the heads up...

comrade
greg
02-26-2009 01:13 AM
nitrocorsair Man!! after reading this thread, its incredible the amount of witch-doctory and misconception going on with welding.
Welding upside down is easier than welding vertical, tougher than flat. Plain and simple. There is a wonderful physical property inherent to all liquids called surface tension. The same thing that causes water to bead-up on a wax job. Well, liquid steel has surface tension too and it will help it stick to the base material over head. Contrary to what was stated before , you do not turn down your voltage or amperage to weld over head but rather go UP. about 10 %. So if you are running 26 open circuit volts in the flat for a given piece of material, turn UP to 29 OCV and then run. Balance your amperage and it will run just fine. Shielding gas has nothing to do with the position. CO2 is not the answer to any problem with out of position welds. Use a PUSH presentation to the weld deposition rather than a pull. Lead with the wire/puddle, not the torch or cup.
As far as the magnetism,the steel itself is beyond the magnetic pull. Its a mish-mash of molecular stew getting beat on by electro-magnetic fields and heat induced reorganization. The magnetics come into play with the arc itself and thats where problems come in, usually on reverse polarity ( electrode positive) applications. Arc blow is a problem with larger diameter electrodes or higher amperage applications. If arc blow starts to become an issue, which it may, place your ground BEHIND you and weld away from it. That will usually stop it. If not, place a c-clamp on the piece you are welding and ground to the c-clamp (again, behind your weld joint). That will make a glorified horseshoe magnetic field and isolate the bulk of the field at the ground rather than the point of arc contact. stay within a foot of your weld zone with the c-clamp.
Hope that helps.
BTW, oldred is right. By putting a magnet anywhere near your weld zone, you are asking for spatter burns. You want to keep magnets as far away as possible with welds because the arc responds negatively to magnetic pull and turns into a bull whip, throwing gobs of liquid steel all over the place.

Lee
02-21-2009 01:34 PM
oldred
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
cant wait to get to the shop and try that magnet trick,its the coolest thing ive ever heard since copper backing when welding sheetmetal,


You will be wasting your time with that magnet, in fact it will be detrimental to the process. Did you read this entire thread? Molten metal is not affected by a magnet so the normal magnetic effect will do exactly zilch for holding the puddle in place, a magnet will not even have an attraction to red hot steel never mind molten steel. If anything the only effect you are going to get is a lot of spatter and arc blow because the arc will be affected by the magnet but not in any way you would want!
02-21-2009 01:02 PM
deadbodyman
redneck way

id just roll the car over on its roof,cant wait to get to the shop and try that magnet trick,its the coolest thing ive ever heard since copper backing when welding sheetmetal,ever get a hot slag in your ear?
08-14-2007 12:34 AM
jmoorez2001
welding upside down

hmm here is my theory on this adjust ur speed and heat levels till u get a uniform bead that haves good penetration and by all means wear leathers or something that will protect u from the spatter and molten metal or slag coming from the wire/flux or even a stick rod i can weld in any position known with any or just about any type of welder there is or was built if it was working right
08-13-2007 10:05 PM
NEW INTERIORS I have a lincoln 175 mig. I have welded with all most ever machine,In i would buy a 175,again!! It is about $600.00 at lowes. You will not be sorry.
07-31-2007 11:57 AM
richard stewart 3rd suthncustoms

well if you haven't seen self shielding ac wire, you need to look harder.
07-29-2007 03:45 PM
oldred When using a 110 MIG on heavier stock preheat works wonders and does a LOT to alleviate the poor penetration problem , but as pointed out higher current is the real solution. With proper preheat the thermal shock caused by the heat sink effect from the extra mass can be controlled allowing for a decent weld even with the lower current. Also I could not agree more that practice with the stick welder is a great idea.
07-29-2007 02:35 PM
DJ3100
110 v welders are not for structural welding

Tinman 386,

For all the folks with 110 volt welders. Please don't even think of doing structural welding with these machines. They have a low welding voltage with means no penetration. That is what makes them excellent at welding sheet.

Powerrodmike said he limits his to 1/8". But not all of these welders are created equal. You should do test pieces on the same thickness of material you are going to weld. Butt weld 2 pieces of 1/8" then saw through the metal perpendicular to the weld. You'll be able to see the penetration. Try breaking the sample. Does it break or bend? Probably it breaks and in some cases you'll be able to break it with only your hands. Try it with different thicknesses.

If your hitch is 3/16". The material will conduct the heat away from the weld so quickly it may not penetrate at all. The weld looks good but it is just laying on top of the metal. This same thing might be happening even if it is 1/8".

If you do this test you'll think twice about trying to weld on a trailer hitch with this welder.

If you had a MIG welder of adequate amperage, you would weld overhead by using the trigger on the MIG gun to stitch the weld. Instead of welding colder, I often weld hotter. Pull the trigger, move the wire in an 1/8" circle, (be sure to fuse both pieces) to create a puddle, release the trigger. Move over about 1/2 the diameter of the weld you just created, pause until the color has gone out of the weld and do it again.

It is a good idea to position yourself to the side of the weld, so the hot stuff does not fall in your face or down your shirt etc. Turn your hand over knuckles up. Lay on a creeper or something to get off the floor because the hots stuff bounces - especially on concrete.

If I were you, I'd practice with the sitck welder and turn the trailer over to do the overhead, right side up.
07-29-2007 07:03 AM
61bone
wowee

Gave the magnet a try yesterday. Considerable arc blow and spatter with stick. Mig was kinda like welding through grease. No noticable difference with oxy acet. Well, this one didn't work but was still a make ya think idea. Don't give up, some ideas really do work.
07-28-2007 07:45 AM
oldred Common mistake and a lot of folks get that confused because of thinking that DC- must be reverse, however DC electrode + is reverse polarity (work to rod) and DC electrode - is straight polarity (rod to work). This may at first seem backward but remember current flows from negative to positive, not the other way around thus flux core (gas-less) = STRAIGHT polarity, DC electrode negative (electrode to work) and MIG = DC REVERSE polarity, electrode positive (work to electrode).
07-27-2007 10:07 PM
SuthnCustoms yup..your right oldred..brainfart..to late in the night for me,im usualy in bed by now but up waitin for the ole lady to get back from her bachelorette party their havin for her sister and being on these pain pills for the arm and leg joint pain from the ole"iron hangin" days aint helpin either, i got the straight and reverse screwed up with the negative and positive,aint my first brainfart and sure as he== aint gonna be my last..lol

Have a good evenin..John
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