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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-21-2010 10:53 PM
jankinnu Updated video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fRQXxOVx1w

New crank and forged flat top pistons, balanced, zero-decked block.
Solid roller cam 0.62" lift

Next I will install new fuel system with return line and bigger fuel pump, Mallory 140 gph.
05-29-2010 02:55 PM
cobalt327 While doing a search here for stroker cost info, I ran across this thread. It's old-ish, but I still want to bring this to anyone's attention that may also see it.

I don't use Speed-O-Motive, so I cannot personally vouch for the accuracy, but the member who posted this is also trustworthy, IMO. Here's what he had to say on the subject, Post #13:

Quote:
Originally Posted by 345 desoto
I would very strongly suggest that you Google up Speedomotive before you buy ANYthing from them. I've read enough bad press about them to be cautious about them. For good quality stuff, you can't hardly beat Summit. There are plenty of GOOD supliers out there, that have spotless reputations. All it takes, for ME at least, is a couple of bad raps, and I stay away...
Online info is mostly hearsay. S-O-M may be fine. BUT- as always- verify ALL, trust NOTHING that you've not independently verified or know to be correct. Caveat emptor, et cetera.

This is no reflection one way or the other to anyone who has a differing opinion and if S-O-M is better than their press leads me to believe, I'd welcome the info.
05-29-2010 02:28 PM
cobalt327 While doing a search here for stroker info, I ran across this thread. It's old-ish, but I still want to bring this to anyone's attention that may also see it.

I don't use Speed-O-Motive, so I cannot personally vouch for the accuracy, but the member who posted this is also trustworthy, IMO. Here's what he had to say on the subject, Post #13:

Quote:
Originally Posted by 345 desoto
I would very strongly suggest that you Google up Speedomotive before you buy ANYthing from them. I've read enough bad press about them to be cautious about them. For good quality stuff, you can't hardly beat Summit. There are plenty of GOOD supliers out there, that have spotless reputations. All it takes, for ME at least, is a couple of bad raps, and I stay away...
Online info is mostly hearsay. S-O-M may be fine. BUT- as always- verify ALL, trust NOTHING that you've not independently verified or know to be correct. Caveat emptor, et cetera.

Some other links- not "cherry picked", these were all on the first page of a 600,000-hit google for "Speed-O-Motive problems with":

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/spee...ive-56897.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...hem-again.html

http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/all...-cranks-3.html
04-19-2010 02:15 PM
jankinnu I have all the parts now. Just gonna pick up new set of bearings and gaskets and then I can assemble the engine with the mechanical roller.

Here's a video from my old setup with hydraulic flat tappet cam, 0-6000 rpm:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLKYpAdd1QA
12-13-2009 08:26 AM
jankinnu I decided to go with mechanical roller cam with small base circle + direct lube mechanical rollers from Howards Cams:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-111313-06S/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91132/

Duration 246/0.05" and 286/advertised
0.621" lift with 1.6 rockers

I changed the cam bearings with cam bearing tool and assembled the transmission internals into new (old) transmission shell. I bought also cam degree kit.



Now I need a new timing cover + roller cam thrust button to handle the cam walk.

What do you guys think, is my 750cfm vacuum secondary holley enough or would you prefer 750-850cfm with mechanical secondaries?
10-22-2009 04:07 PM
jankinnu I could get new set of hydraulic roller Comp Cams XR288HR + Comp Cams hydraulic roller lifters Pro Magnum 885-16 a lot cheaper than from the store. According to Desktop Dyno 2003 the peak hp would be somewhere between 6000-6500 rpm depending on the exhaust setup (0.555" lift w 1.6 rockers). DCR would be around 8.3:1 with this cam.

How much rod big end grinding I should be expecting with this cam? It's not small base circle cam, so who nows before assembly.

The cam selection is a huge jungle. Luckily the driving season is over and I have lots of time during the winter to think about different options.

I'm willing to set the max. rpm in the 6500 rpm range so I'm little concerned how hydraulic lifters can handle it.
08-16-2009 03:29 PM
F-BIRD'88 take DD2000 with a grain of salt. it overstates the gain of the single over a dual because it does not model a good (great) dual plane hi rise design that well (rpm) The RPM is very hard to beat on the street and on the strip unless you launch from 4000+ and buzz the rpm very high.
(best average power output) But as a "trend" a single does often have a bit of and advantage at peak power. (at the cost of low/mid)
good illustration of the difference here
08-16-2009 01:16 AM
jankinnu Yes the cylinder edges are chamfered but still it feels a bit sharp. Maybe it's ok.

I found a huge dyno-tested list from Ryan's car page . It has a lot of combos of sbc 383 strokers with AFR heads.

Desktop Dyno 2000 has quite rough estimate of the intake manifold. Single-plane manifold seems to boost the hp reading a lot compared with dual-plane. Maybe I will leave to later because it's easy to change.

I have had some discussions about how to support the engine + transmission with elastic mounts. I was told that I should use the stiff motor mounts in the front and more elastic transmission mount. It was also suggested to use additional motor mounts at the rear part of the engine.
08-14-2009 01:49 PM
F-BIRD'88 Yes the freshly machined edge of the cylinder needs to be chamfered a bit.
Your machinist should do this for you with the boreing and decking operation.

I'd set up to a street solid cam at this point. Isky #201027 with 1.6 rockers
Isky #201534 w 1.6 or 1.5 rockers Isky 201525 same.

Lunati Voodoo solid. Also look at the Lunati ("NEW" street strip stuff)
These are Ultradyne Cams profiles (UD Harold) --google it-- lots of good street strip stuff there.
The comp extreme solid roller and lunati voodoo solid rollers are real good too.
A cam in this 240+duration group will want a 3500stall converter and a healthy gear.
Makes big street power yet drives well on the street.

a finished 10.9:1 is still a bit too high for the street.
After CCing your AFR heads to verify the chamber volume:
You could select different piston with a small dish.
machine a small dish in your Weisco flatties.
Work on the combustion chambers to increase the chamber volume.
Don;t deck the block quite so much. or use a thicker .051" gasket.
I'd work to keep the finished measured cr at 10.6 or less.

If you got to stick with a hyd cam consider the Comp Extreme XE284H-10 with 1.5's or 1.6 or a 1.6-1.5 split ratio. Good to 6700rpm with good springs
Shift it around ~+/-6K
great off the shelf street strip hyd.

You must check and verify cam lobe to con rod clearance. should not be an issue with the scat rods, but its up to you to check it.
08-14-2009 12:47 PM
jankinnu The setup is now missing the camshaft, here's the updated part list:

-Block bored 4.03",zero decked with flat top pistons
-3.75" stroke crankshaft, Eagle
-5.7" I-beam rods, Scat
-minus 5.4cc flat top pistons, Wiseco (~10.9:1 comp depending on gasket)
-edelbrock performer rpm intake manifold
-1 3/4" primary headers, 2.5" exhaust with see-through mufflers
-clevite bearings
-ARP bolts
-AFR #1034 195cc/65cc heads
-holley 750cfm vacuum secondary carb
-1.6:1 roller rockers
-aluminum valve covers
-MSD Pro Billet distributor
-Accel spark plug wires

Operation range should be between 2000-6500rpm. Could you suggest me a camshaft that would fit this setup? I can change the intake and carb if necessary. I have looked Lunati cam:

LUN-07103LK, 2500-6500 rpm, int/ex duration 245, advertised int/ex duration 295, LSA108, int/ex lift 0.534" (0.569" with 1.6:1 rockers)

Dynamic compression ratio should not exceed 8.5:1. Do you have any other good suggestions for the cam?

One more question. As the block is now zero-decked, should I grind the sharp edges of the cylinder holes with sandpaper to prevent detonation?
08-01-2009 09:50 AM
jankinnu 11.8:1 compression ratio was a bit too much for street. I needed to add octane booster all the time to avoid pinging.

I disassembled the engine. The diameter of the bores varied from 4.004 to 4.007". I got it bored to next size of 4.03". I changed the pistons to Wiseco forged pistons (WIS-PT025H3 ) They seem to have quite big clearance of 0.004" by the manufacturer, which should be ok for forged pistons.

Next I will check the deck to piston clearance from every cylinder and the block will be machined into zero deck. This way I can use thicker head gaskets (I had 0.015" gaskets)

My plan is to upgrade the camshaft for a bit more radical one (lift in range 0.55-0.62). Roller cams seem to be quite expensive but I suppose it's worth it, right?

I have also wanted to try double pumper carb, some 750 Holley dp should be ok, but there are so many 750cfm dp Holley models, that I need to look them in more detail.
05-25-2009 01:47 PM
jankinnu Short video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUUPQtG_7So
05-17-2009 02:04 AM
jankinnu I updated the distributor into MSD-8361 Pro Billet. It feels much better in the high rpm range than before. I will try to get initial mechanical advance at idle into 18 degrees. Then I can limit the max advance into 36 degrees with the largest advance stop bushing.

What do you guys think? Is it ok, if the full mechanical advance comes @ 3000rpm and stays there?
04-27-2009 02:44 PM
jankinnu The engine runs now like a champ with the new AFR heads. Throttle response is a lot sharper than before. At idle with gear in Park position rpms get upto rev limiter of 6000 rpm really quick. Compression is now 11.84:1 and DCR is 8.9. I'm running with 98 octane gas (98 RON equals 94 MON in USA) without any pinging. Quench is tight 0.035".

I need to buy a new distributor or try to limit advance scale. I adjusted mechanical advance to 36 degrees from 3000 and up but this leads to 12 degrees advance at idle.

I did first easy test runs. Man, this engine has a lot of torque now that it's working. The noise of the exhaust changed dramatically due to new heads and higher compression. You can feel the blow of exhaust even from 10 feet distance behind the car.

New lock-right locker in the rear end is making some noise. Will see if it gets more quiet after a while. As long as it works, I have no complaints.
04-13-2009 05:47 AM
jankinnu Can you tell me possible reason why one of exhaust valve is light brown in my old cast iron heads? The head gaskets seemed to be fine. I just installed all the new goodies.

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