|08-16-2007 10:12 AM|
Cheap paper wont last long - there are several good ones with Norton(my fave) and 3M the most normally available. Mirka is good and have been told that Indasa is not bad. There are Home Despot grades and there are auto supply shop grades - the auto body supplied are usually the best. Stay away from Harbor Freight or other Chinese, Indian, Korean as it will quit cutting real fast.
How quick it wears out is often a matter of what you are sanding. Primer - lasts for quite a while, bondo and other fillers, not so long.
|08-16-2007 09:34 AM|
lots of info here ! I have one question.... How do you get the most milage (minutes) out of the sandpaper ? I know soaking it and lots of water with some soap helps , but it still seems to quit cutting pretty fast ???? OR is this normal ? What brand of paper works the best ?.........thanks
|08-15-2007 06:32 AM|
|baddbob||Use prybars to gently push those low areas in the sail panel out, then use a shrinking disc to take the stretch out of them. Do a search on shrinking disc and read up.|
|08-14-2007 11:14 PM|
|YenkoChevelle 69||Thanks Gentlemen! You are a big help. What do I do about area's of warpage up in the sail panel where no mere mortal can access?|
|08-14-2007 10:54 PM|
|kenseth17||I find it easiest when doing a large area to knock into shape some with 36 on a board while still semi soft. Then when it hardens up some more and will feather, sand in cross patterns across the whole filler area if possible, till all edges feather out. Then feel for possible high spots in filler that need some more sanding. If you have any fairly low areas still in your filler, fill those spots in and block it while still somewhat soft, so it cuts down easy enough that you not taking a lot of your previous filler off while sanding those fill spots. Then spread a coat over the whole thing again and block. If you have a bodyline to make, may want to tape off half at the bodyline and concentrate on spreading and straightening a half at a time up, or work on gettng the bodyline straight first. Throw away that 120 and da until you got it straight with 36, 80, 120 I'll only use on a orbital palm sander after everything is blocked straight to get 8o grit scratch a little finer for primer. A lot easier to get things blocked straight with the courser grits. Skim coating whole area after blocked out straigt, or leaving some room when blocking the filler and things are feeling straight for working over with finer grit will take care of the scratch. I'll add to bobs off dolly to knock down high spots, that you should hold your hammer kind of loose in your hand and should allow it to spring off the metal. Everyone is giving you good advice. But so much easier to explain,show, and pick up things if working and showing hands on how would go about attacking it.|
|08-14-2007 10:12 PM|
|baddbob||Run your sanding board over the whole panel and it'll show you where the highs and lows are. Your cheap body hammers should work Ok if they have a slight crown to the face- if not just make sure there's no sharp edges on the face of the hammer-use your DA if necessary to shape the hammer head some. You'll want to use a dolly off method when working those high spots down. Hold the dolly on the outer edge of the high area and slightly tap the high spot down, run your board over the area to check your progress. You can work any low areas up with the same proceedure. When all the high spots are down you'll then want to skim the panel and block it looking for low areas.|
|08-14-2007 10:04 PM|
IT doesn't appear to be flanged. That etchig primer is just to keep the moisture away. How you do suggest knocking down those high spots? I have an inexpensive harbor freight hammer and dolley set. I really can't afford to sink a bunch of money into body tools.
|08-14-2007 09:44 PM|
|baddbob||Don't bother using the DA for any of that shaping work. You need to use your 18" board and 80 grit paper untill the shape is right. Also when working an area that large it'll be best to just skim that whole area and block it down looking for high and low areas. Was the panel flanged before it was installed or just slid under the old panel? Use a guidecoat over your filler to help you see how the shape is forming. Any high spots will need to be nocked down otherwise you'll have a fight that you'll never win. These half quarters are a PITA unless you fit them well and butt weld them in-which takes a heck of a lot of time initially but saves on finishing work in the end. Is that self etch primer dusted over the panel?-for moisture protection or use as a guidecoat? Don't trap any self etch between filler applications.|
|08-14-2007 09:30 PM|
|onebadmerc||On large flat panels don't put any pressure on your air board, just let it glide slightly over the filler. It will take forever to cut the filler, even with a new piece of paper, but you won't get the waves. The larger the panel, the easier it is to distort the filler. Leave the skim coat for last, there is no point in doing it, until the panel is really close.|
|08-14-2007 08:02 PM|
I'm not a great body man but I think it helps to put a real thin (very, very thin) cloth glove on when feeling for highs and lows. The cloth helps your hand slide over the panel with less friction. It may not work for everybody but it helps me out.
|08-14-2007 06:12 PM|
Hello gentlemen, I haven't posted here in quite some time. I frequent Team Chevelle. I see a few familiar faces in the crowd (Sevt, and Martinsr). They have helped me out alot.
Anyhow, the reason I am here is to see if you guys could also give me some tips for body work. I didn't want to start a new thread and waste band width. Anyhow, I have a 1969 Chevelle Super Sport. It's had the trunk floor, tail panel, inner/outter tubs replaced and had those crappy 80% skins put on it. The man who skinned it did so about 1-2 inches above the body line. Why? I don't know, but I do know I have some warage. Anyhow, on with the show.
I also have this door that is giving me fits. It has a low spot right on the body line in the very center of the door. I beat it out was much as I could, but it needs filler.
Anyhow, as you can see on the quarter (inside shot) the thing was lap welded. The new metal is UNDER the old metal, so the old quarter is stepped up ever so slightly. The problem is that is is right near the body line. I am not getting a smooth transition from metal, to filler to metal. It;s still like I have a sharp angle? instead of a smooth flow. It's hard to explain. I have an 18 inch board, 5-6 in block and 80/120 grit paper that I have been using. I've used a DA sander with 120 to knock down some of the large surface area to save some time. I am currently using metal glaze.
|08-13-2007 11:49 PM|
|08-13-2007 09:57 PM|
This is a good thread for anyone to read. I have not touched body work in years (never was any good at it), but reading online has helped with procedures and tools.
Someday, I will be the one asking questions.
|08-13-2007 09:47 PM|
|08-13-2007 05:34 PM|
|RAYzr||Before you do anything more, get a 3' piece of flat iron or straight edge of some kind and run it over the panel...it will aquaint you with the highs and lows and how big they really are...for free without sanding|
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