|09-12-2007 01:59 PM|
|Johnny4311||ive known of 383's lasting 10 years + i dont care anything about hydrualic camshaft really, ive run solid flat tappet cams on the street with no problems, what if i toned the cam down a little and went to a 215cc port or 210?|
|09-12-2007 05:53 AM|
In case you didn't know, you'll lose anywhere from 18 into 25 % of your horsepower between the flywheel and the rear wheels. The higher percentage loss is probably more realistic. Most of the dyno horsepower numbers are with no alternator or other accessories and an electric water pump. Some, if not all, are without mufflers either.
|09-12-2007 04:10 AM|
Edelbrock "RPM" 350 roller cam motor "power package" with E tec heads is 460HP and streetable....
why gamble that a 260 cam will work with 230 ports...on the street or best possible at the strip?
did you read the builds on the "ryanspage" link I posted?
do note...that is a 460HP "350" build which will out last a 383 due to side load wall wear
I'm not against strokers...you will gain 30ft/lbs+ of TQ due to more cubes for a faster rate of acceleration....
|09-12-2007 12:45 AM|
|Johnny4311||not a bad idea the supercharger, but i really just wanted naturally aspirated engine, im not too bad against a little nitrous but here is the combo im gonna go with i think, the 383 with a good rotating assembly from CNC motorsports, eagle forged crank, eagle 3D h beams, dart pro 1 230cc heads (i know my low speed torque will suck but will come alive on top end) somewhere in the neighborhood of 10.5:1-10.75:1 compression comp cams solid flat tappet camshaft 260 degrees duration @ .050 .555 lift 110LSA performer rpm air gap or victor jr that should get me somewhere in the 475 flywheel horsepower what do you guys think? i know i will have to spin the $h*t out of it to get it but with a good rotating assembly i should be ok, it dosent have to last forever lol.|
|09-11-2007 08:20 PM|
I'm 99% sure those numbers in the dyno tests are at the crankshaft, not the rear wheels. Unless something has changed in the last year or so. 400 hp at the wheels is a tall order. You're probably going to have truck that doesn't drive very well except when you stand on the gas. Then it'll be awesome!
|09-11-2007 08:01 PM|
|s-10stroker||No weight reductions yet.With the small block and Ford 9" rear I probably didn't add more than 250 pounds over when the v-6 was in there.|
|09-10-2007 10:05 PM|
|Johnny4311||what kind of weight reductions have you done to your truck?|
|09-10-2007 09:49 PM|
|s-10stroker||Your truck should weigh approx.3100 pounds.I have a 1984 S-10 with a 388 stroker in it.With a set of slicks mid to high 7's in the 1/8th mile is not unrealistic.|
|09-10-2007 09:29 PM|
|Johnny4311||i totally agree with you DV, but i do already have the block in hand, and also ive been thinking of using a solid flat tappet camshaft it would solve the cost problem and eliminate valve float|
|09-10-2007 07:01 AM|
from the knowledge base link at the page top:
here's about 50 383 combo's with published dyno #'s (and a bunch of 350's)
you don't need to go $$$$ stroker and roller for 400+fwhp....
Edelbrock Chevy 350 "RPM power package" is 410(fw?)HP with a flat tappet cam....carb/intake/heads/cam "bolt on".....HP peak at 5500
|09-10-2007 01:56 AM|
|DoubleVision||400 horses on pump gas and aluminum heads is rather easy for a 383. Why not shoot for 500? Many of these builds are outlined in chevy high performance articles online. I would only do one thing different, I would use a 880 casting 1 piece rear seal 4 bolt main block that came with a factory roller cam. By going this route over a retro fit roller cam set up, the cash you save can be put towards other parts to make more power. The 1 piece rear seal is also a nice addition, no worry`s about pesky leaks from the 2 piece seal blocks.|
|09-09-2007 11:55 PM|
Realistic Hp question
Hi guys, ive got a 93 S10 SWB reg cab thats gonna be a street strip weekend warrior type vehicle, ive got a narrowed 9 inch ford with ladder bar suspension 3.90:1 gear, lowered 2 inches in front, full interior, all air conditioning components removed manual steering box and front inner fenders removed, and i soon will be cutting the floor of the bed out and putting in aluminum or thin steel wheel tubs, having said all that this is my question, i have a 69 model 4 bolt virgin bore block that im wanting to build a 383 out of, how realistic is 400 rear wheel horsepower on todays pump gas? and im talking 93 octane because thats what we have here in alabama, im not interested in using nitrous or a power adder, i dont mind buying a good set of aluminum heads or a roller camshaft, do you guys have any suggestions? i want something that will perform in the 2500-6000 rpm range, keep in mind that i wont have to run any accessories with the engine.
another questions i have taking into consideration the weight savings i have made what do you think this truck weighs? and if indeed i can achieve 400 rwp what kind of 1/8th mile times you think i can get? considering i can get good traction? thanks for looking guys and eager to hear your input