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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-28-2008 06:01 AM
rchrischris38 K.C.

Thanks for the email, I am presently in Kabul Afghanistan and hot rodding is a great diversion. As far as your brakes, I have the original brakes and they work great. I did change out the master cylinder to a 55 - 57 chevy type as that is the type of swing pedals I am using, but the drums are available as well as shoes. It give more than adequate stopping power. It is actually a truck size brake. Good luck.
Chris
05-28-2008 05:30 AM
k.c.
need parts?

I really like your car. I am also building a '38 Pontiac. It's a Silverstreak Six 2 door slant back sedan. It will have a period correct 1960 389 Tripower S.D. with long branch headers, TH400, '78 T.A. rear end with 3.42:1 posi, and Heidts front end.

I have the engine, which runs well but needs re-build and exhaust manifold, floor shift trans, drive shaft, rear end, front and rear springs, front suspension parts, drums, spindles, wheels, master cylinder, and various other parts.

Email or P.M. me if interested.
10-22-2007 01:42 AM
rchrischris38 With a hot rod there is always a to-do list. But, point well taken about the drums and the new holes. The existing brakes should still be usable, they are 1938, but recently rebuilt and the same as newer trucks.
10-21-2007 01:45 PM
lanierledford
The wheels

I really don't know about changing the drums. I'm sure you'd have to get the same diam. and width for the shoes. I used a 57 Pontiac rear end and it used the same shoes and cyl as my 81 chevy pickup, just didn't have self adjuster. If the late model drums will fix the hubs, you could turn them where the hole had a new surface and drill to match, then the drum would cover the old holes in the hubs. I think I'd put some kind of sealant on the drum to hub to help seal them.
If I were you, I think I'd be compiling a things to do list.
10-21-2007 09:51 AM
rchrischris38 You are right, the front would be the easiest to do I also think and then a new set of brake drums to match the new hole pattern. Then four new wheels that match.
10-21-2007 09:11 AM
lanierledford
matching pattens on wheels

I think I'd just have a machine shop re drill the front to match the rear or reverse. The front would be easier to me than pulling the rear axles I don't like adapters on wheels. I think the 2 most important parts of a car are the brakes and steering. The rest will kind of take care of its self.
10-21-2007 08:45 AM
rchrischris38 The different wheels are because I had an old set of Keystones in the shop and put them on the back temporarily, that was several years ago. I am fighting a different bolt pattern front to back problem, so the wheels would have to be two pair of matching wheels. Or adaptors (Yuk). The front end is 1938 and the rear is early 70's chevy 12 bolt, maybe change the axles to get the front end's bolt pattern at the rear. Something to think about here in the mountians of Afghanistan. Hot rods seem so far away.
By the way, the running boards are leather, actually padded and then sort of upholstered. It is different and it was also temporary just to see how it would do, that was ten years ago.
10-21-2007 08:32 AM
lanierledford
The Indian

Looks great. I did a 40 2dr sedan (chevy) I re drilled the rear springs to center the wheel in the center of the wheel well and moved the tie bolt through the springs.
I see the wheels front and rear are 5 lug, why 2 different wheels?
I also put in a mustang 2 front end under it. Cut and notched to fit the frame. made adapters for chevy rotors and caliber, and had to change the bearing. It was a big hassle and saved money, but was time consuming. If I had it to redo, I'd buy a bolt in kit. It drove great. The center of the axles, front and rear were level with the running boards. I did think about using 2 in, drop spindles.
I mentioned the running boards. That was the most expense part of the hole job as per size. A guy in Fort Oglethorpe Ga. ( Accup I think was his name) did them. He cleaned them, sand blasted, and re vulcanized them. Found the ss trim in Washington (nos). Total job was around $450.00 but they made the car look great. By the way it was flip flop pearl with black under hood, with a beige inter. True Spoke wheels 235 rear and 195 (vw tires) front (14in.) Mite be in my journal.
Take care, looking forward to hearing of you home and cruising the streets.
10-21-2007 04:55 AM
TANGO
Quote:
Originally Posted by WDCreech
Since I'm hardcore Pontiac, tell us about your car, power, running gear etc., when you can. Oh! Welcome. Glad to see another Indian owner. Here's a couple pics of mine;
I also built Pontiac's in the past . Check out this 1970 nova . It was powered by a 455 Pontiac with iron heads 520 lift cam super rods torker intake 850 holley . Turbo 400 trans 4200 stall . And dana 60 410 gear . Back in 1983 it ran 11.52 . Back then it was the fastest Pontiac at are track . Those Pontiac's have weak cast rods and cant take to much racing !
10-21-2007 04:13 AM
rchrischris38
Pontiac Plans

If you notice the front wheels do not match the back. There are two different bolt patterns involved (I cannot believe I did that.) But the front end is original and the rear end is a 12 bolt chevy. I need to get matching wheels front and back, other than that it is about done, as done as a hot rod ever is, I guess.
10-19-2007 12:53 PM
daoldbuick Looks great in 2-tone. Seen some 2-Tones that are???? but yours really works for me. How does it ride/handle at that hight? Have you ever thought of lowering it? What plans do you have for it when you get back?
10-19-2007 11:04 AM
rchrischris38
My Pontiac

It is stock as far as the body and frame. I had the knee actions in the front as well as the complete frontend rebuilt as opposed to replacing with newer technology. The rear end is a 12 bolt chevy posi from an early 70's chevelle. It has a 1966 chevy 327 (still 4" bore, std) but Elderbrock heads, holly 650 double pumper and a relatively mild crane cam with roller rockers. I learned the hard way about the heads needing oversized pushrods. When calling the company they recommend at least .100 but suggest that you do the work to get the valve geometry correct, what a hassle. The radiator is stock, although it has been recored, it even has a water core heater that will cook you. It is camel beige with dark metalic hunter green fenders and black head and tail lights. I disassembled the car to two tone it and put it back together with stainless steel hardware and all new rubber and welt. It has been a labor of love.
10-18-2007 08:43 PM
WDCreech Since I'm hardcore Pontiac, tell us about your car, power, running gear etc., when you can. Oh! Welcome. Glad to see another Indian owner. Here's a couple pics of mine;
10-18-2007 06:03 PM
Centerline Welcome and thanks for serving.
10-18-2007 03:18 PM
Henry Highrise Welcome to the Hotrodders Bulletin Board.
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