|11-27-2007 05:41 PM|
I have mounted bodies using a hard plastic called grilon, it comes in round bars and is found at metal supply stores, buy it in 2 1/2 inch diameter and have it cut at the shop's band saw in 1 inch slices, drill a hole in the center and use them as mounts, they will outlast your truck.
you can also use any other plastic stock except teflon wich is too soft and expensive.
I have even seen rubber donuts cut from big rig tire carcasses, they also last for ever.
don't use tranny or engine mounts, they split and let your body go.
YOU MUST USE A BOLT THAT GOES THROUGH THE MOUNT, use nylon self locking nuts and big thick washers, I'm sure they'll check for this to have it certified for the tag.
|11-27-2007 03:16 PM|
I would check around junkyards and se if you could find a mount that would work..The stacked pucks are scary.As for under the bed what about a transmission crossmember turned upsiide down and bolted to the frame long ways...Such as a crossmember from a chevrolet with auto trans and 208 transfer case?If you need the measurmments I can measure the one on my truck for you.
|11-27-2007 01:16 PM|
|Henry Highrise||Agusto is right on target....that is the way it should be done.|
|11-27-2007 01:00 PM|
a) sue the guy who sold it to you
b) call Chip Foose at overhaulin' and beg him to steal your monster.
c) send me a picture when it's done!
p.s. in case Chip sends you packing, make yourself some mild steel towers from the frame up till they meet the structural points in the body and use regular body mounts from the Ford courier or Mazda truck, with a bolt at least 1/2 inch dia going all the way through the body and chassis, if you hit a big hole or crash into something the tranny mounts will break and you'll have a flying courier.
|11-25-2007 11:28 AM|
I don't think the transmission mount is a good idea at all, it allows for much too much movement. Plus, there is no way I would use it unless it is innerlocking. There is a reason those type mounts aren't used for mounting bodies at the factory. First, I replace broken motor mounts all the time from collisions. The inertia of the motors weight continuing to move forward in a collision will tear these mounts RIGHT NOW. Yes there may be a number of them but when one breaks, the chain is likely to continue breaking them. Second, they move so much. Especially with the bed welded to the body, you are going to need that unit to be mounted pretty solid or there will be cracking at the joint of the two. Plus, if the body moves too much there will be all kinds of problems with brake lines, cables, steering linkage, etc. Everything that runs between the body and frame is likely to have extra stresses on them that don't exist with a normal body mount.
This isn't an issue if it is only used on the bed but in this rig there is no "only the bed" because the two have been welded together. You can't have one half of the body able to move and the other half not, you WILL end up with cracks and failures.
Yes, you could use them at certain points, but don't push it and use them at too many places.
|11-25-2007 09:43 AM|
|11-24-2007 02:47 PM|
I like that transmission mount idea it seems like they would be easier to work with than normal body mounts. Do you think a mount like this would be good? (1980s GM trans mount)
I'm thinking this type of mouting won't be as fail-safe though, there is a possibility for it to rip right out?
|11-19-2007 11:04 PM|
|Dragnfyr||Looks like the only mount that is really done badly (not counting the general use of hockey pucks) is the stack of hockey pucks... Personally, I would do away with the stack and make a box that comes off the body down to the original frame mounting point you see in that picture... I would also undo the solid mounts for the bed and add a rubber mount of some kind (I always used c4 transmission mounts myself) between them and the bed, otherwise you will eventually end up with stress cracks where the bed was welded to the cab...|
|11-19-2007 10:53 PM|
What a friggin mess! This is a lot more than a few posts could explain. But the basics are you need to build something up to the stock mount on the cab. This piece could weld or bolt to the frame but just mount lift the cab up on something like stacks of wood or jack stands on the rockers. Then remove all the junk that is there and make something to replace it.
|11-19-2007 08:37 PM|
I need help mounting a body to frame where it does not belong! (pics inside)
I just bought somebody else's old project truck, it is a 1975 bronco (the early short wheelbase kind) with a 1982 ford courier truck body on it (ford courier was a rebadged mazda B2000). The bed was shortened and welded to the cab to match the bronco wheelbase. The guy didn't do a very good job and I need it to pass a thorough inspection before I'm allowed to plate it.
The bed is mounted solid to the frame by welded plates, and the cab is sitting on lots of hockey pucks and 2 proper body mounts. I would like to set it up to work with normal rubber body mounts from front to back so it looks proper and can pass the inspection. Check out the pictures:
Here is the truck:
Here is the first mount at the front of the vehicle:
Here is the second mount (don't laugh!)
Here you can see the rear cab mounts (the only ones that look normal!)
And the front mount for the bed (solid plate)
Here are the rear two mounts (the A shaped plates, also welded solid).
I can't get the body any lower on the chassis because the motor and transfer case are already intruding on the small interior, and you can see the rear cab mounts are already sitting on the frame. I was thinking of making up some kind of big mounts welded to the body that comes down to the original body mounts on the frame in the original mounting positions.
What do you guys think?