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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-01-2007 01:02 PM
F-BIRD'88 Why are you limiting yourself to the GM hot cam.

You can reach and exceed your power goals on a 350 with warmed over vortec heads, a dual plane vortec rpm intake, 750cfm carb and 1-5/8" headers using Edelbrocks "Performer RPM" hydraulic roller cam and Comp cams beehive springs.
You can drill and roll pin the rocker studs and shorten and reduce the valve guide bosses yourself at home using valve seal install tooling you can buy from the cam companies in a good 3/8" drill. Comp beehive springs do not require machining the stock spring seat inner diameter and provide superior valvetrain control without excessive spring pressure.

You can tune up the port flow on the vortecs for more power, yourself. The intake ports are very good as is. No big reshaping is required. The intake side only needs cleaning up, smoothing and valve guide boss contouring. Stay away from the valve job. Its very efficient as is. The exhaust side responds well to a full port effort. The stock valve size is fine.

the Edelbrock performer RPM hyd roller cam is available in a "retrofit" version and a OEM roller block version using OEM roller lifters.

This is the same cam used in their 350ci E-tec crate motor. 1.5:1 rockers are fine.
11-30-2007 01:48 PM
Mustangsaly I don't think the LT4 springs from GM performance parts that come in the HOT cam kit will fit the vortec head with out machine work will they ? I was planing on Crane Cam's 10309-1 drop-in valve spring and retainer kit. with 1.6 rockers it makes .525" lift
11-30-2007 01:46 PM
cool rockin daddy Comp Cams beehive springs.
11-30-2007 06:09 AM
GMC boogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangsaly
with a .525" lift roller cam turning 6200rpm I don't need screw in studs ?


everyone elses says I do.


thanks

Mustangsaly
It depends on which spring you are using. If using the LT4 springs from GM performance parts that come in the HOT cam kit,you will be fine with the factory press in studs. Are screw in studs stronger? absolutely
11-29-2007 09:20 PM
Mustangsaly
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldknock
There's no real need for screw in studs. The spring pressures required do not necessitate them. You could have the stock studs pinned if you wanted to but, again, it's not necessary.


Larry

with a .525" lift roller cam turning 6200rpm I don't need screw in studs ?


everyone elses says I do.


thanks

Mustangsaly
11-29-2007 08:15 PM
coldknock There's no real need for screw in studs. The spring pressures required do not necessitate them. You could have the stock studs pinned if you wanted to but, again, it's not necessary.


Larry
11-29-2007 08:01 PM
Mustangsaly what made think about jumping on selling my heads and made me look around for different heads was, I called a machine shop and to do my heads (this price is not seeing them, and he said was a little on the high side) Valve job, new roller cam springs good for .550 lift, screw in studs, guide plates, machine down spring boss, machine spring seat ect. $600 to $700 guide plates is all I really don't need done to the heads. as I'm planning self aligning roller rocker arms so I won't need guide plates. he said the springs for .550in lift and the roller cam & .550 lift were $145.00 plus machining down the bosses.

my cam with 1.6 rockers
GMPP HOT hydraulic roller, with 0.525/0.525 in. of lift and 218�/228� of duration @ 0.050 in. of lift.

$600 to $700 is a lot in my book. can't I buy new vortecs for $700 ? course the springs on them prob won't be rated for a roller cam. I called crane and the Crane Cam�s 10309-1 drop-in valve spring and retainer kit which is good for .560in + lift with no machining, and are rated for a roller cam, they cost $196.99 for the springs $ retainers. so plan is to order the crane 10309-1 springs & retainers and take the heads in for a valve job or what ever they need. plus pinned or screw in studs. I'm hopeful I can do that for around $200 or $300 tops, plus $200 in springs.
11-29-2007 04:05 PM
ap72 new springs, retainers, larger valves, and cleaning up your ports with a light port job will be plenty tto get you there. I would go with a cam lift in the .525 lift range (solid or hyd. flat tappet will work fine) Vortec heads are really nice pieces for the price, plus they are EGR compatable, which I'm a big fan of. Spend some money on a well ported Performer manifold, 1.6 roller rockers, and a good set of long tube headers.
11-29-2007 03:50 PM
MI2600 What they said, plus a little more.
11-29-2007 10:17 AM
GMC boogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldknock
Keep your heads and get the guide bosses machined. The power your looking for doesn't really require aftermarket heads. Good parts, machining and tuning will get you there.


Larry
I agree, You are not going to find a better head for $400-$750.
11-28-2007 08:52 PM
coldknock Keep your heads and get the guide bosses machined. The power your looking for doesn't really require aftermarket heads. Good parts, machining and tuning will get you there.


Larry
11-28-2007 08:29 PM
Mustangsaly
SBC HEAD QUESTION: Need Help Picking A Head

ok if everything works out, I might part with my vortec heads and a complete 350. so I might be after a different set of SBC heads. new or used. I'm not after a set of AFRs, but would like a set of $400 or $500 to $750 Heads, and would like to achieve in the 425 + HP range with .550 + inch lift.

But

I looked at Dart Heads, I'm not sure what Dart Head would be best to achieve 10.1CR & 425HP or what other head would be good. I looked on summit for heads, looked at dart and others, who sells new vortec heads bolt on ready for .550 lift ?

I'm planning in the 10.1CR range. what Head would you recommend ?

if I still can't afford a decent head then I won't sell my 062s and they can see the machinist. witch was my plan till about 5pm today. when a guy from down the street ask about the 350 in my 74 Camaro, and my vortec heads for his elcamio.

thanks

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