|12-30-2007 09:58 AM|
I see right were you are coming from, ztoy, and I don't believe you sound like an arse. More "electrically knowledged" than most of the rest of us, but an arse, no. And I like the safety behind doing it the instructed way.
In a while, Chet.
|12-30-2007 09:26 AM|
right you are schnitz.
Sorry if I came across like an ***....my saying has been 'do it how you feel is best then call me and I'll fix it'...lol but I don't want someone dying from one of my fav car sites because he/she took some of the ridiculous advice like I've read in some of the posts.
|12-29-2007 05:49 PM|
One extra footnote to that, Do not, I repeat, DO NOT simply trust the NEC as a stand alone guide for doing the wiring. Local codes are often more strict than the National Electric Code, and they have the final jurisdiction. The only reason I know this is because I had to take the basic 8 week Code Fundamentals class for my job. Doesn't make me a professional, or a know -it-all, but it is something to consider as nonetheless. Otherwise, great post ztoy.
In a while, Chet.
|12-29-2007 07:43 AM|
|ztoy||The rating is per leg.|
|12-27-2007 08:34 PM|
Garage heater ?
Ztoy, got a ? What does the amperage rating on a double breaker mean. 40 amps ? does that mean that over 20 amps on each leg will throe it, or does it take 40 on either leg to throe it. Thanks
|12-27-2007 08:12 PM|
I am a licensed journeyman electrician.
The device is rated at 20.9 amps, not 20. You go to the next size breaker, a 30 amp. It is 240 volt so it requires a 2 pole, 30 amp breaker. The wire size for 30 amps is #10 copper or #6 aluminum. You can legally, according to the NEC, use a larger size wire, but the overcurrent protection must match the rated size per the nameplate. Period, end of story. In addition, since the instructions call for specific wire size, etc, you might want to heed them to protect your warranty, and potentially your or your loved ones life. But its your decision. Listen to advice from a professional or take advice from amateurs, your call.
|12-27-2007 12:40 PM|
|59 wagon man||an electric stove i believe uses a 50 amp plug and breaker and the clothes dryer i believe takes a 30 amp plug if it is electric. it is very easy to tell the difference when you look at the plugs side by side .if an electric oven can be wired safely being plugged in then why couldn't the heater|
|12-27-2007 11:20 AM|
|12-23-2007 12:09 AM|
I don't mean to be negative, but I don't believe that your circuit is adequate.
Generally A/C uses 20amp breakers. That's what I have for my home A/C, which is hard wired. A 40 amp 220 breaker will say 40 amp -- not 20.
My stove circuit has a 40 amp breaker -- and it's labelled 40 amps
Check the wire size in the receptacle -- if your A/C is 20 amp, the wire will probably be 12 gauge.
From your description, the heater will certainly need a 30 amp breaker. -- It could draw 22 - 25 amps. The fan will also draw some -- although nothing too serious.
The pigtails and plugs are also rated for amps. Generally they are rated for
electric dryers and stoves. Dryers are the smaller of the two, I believe.
If you hook up to an underrated circuit with proper breakers, you will blow the breakers on a consistent basis. This will not do your wiring any good.
If your circuit is properly rated, there shouldn't be a problem in plugging in a heater or an A/C. You can only plug one in at a time.
Just trying to help,
|12-22-2007 07:55 PM|
Like Pugsy said, the breaker is there to protect your wire and trip out before it melts or catches fire.
Make sure that you get a double pole 30 amp breaker, It will be one solid breaker with the two "levers" on top tied together.
Everybody is telling you the same thing here, just listen to them and it'll work fine.
Now, the part I'm having a hard time with, is, why do you need a heater?
It was around 80 degrees here today, and I was sweating like a pig working outside today
LOL, have fun staying warm!
Later - Karl
|12-22-2007 07:44 PM|
If you do have a 40 amp breaker, that's too big as max fuse size for your heater is 30 amps.The wire could overheat before the breaker trips.
If you run a cord to plug it in , it should be tied to the cieling using a mesh type hanger.
|12-22-2007 07:03 PM|
Thanks...I checked the box and looks like I have two 20amp breakers tied together....gives me 40amp....Next step is to check the wire gauge, but you gotta think with 40amp it's at least 10ga...thanks again....
|12-21-2007 11:08 AM|
You can use the same recept for either device as long as the recept is rated for 240v and 30a. Then you will need a cord cap with the proper configuration to match the recept. Some 'sjo' cord from an electrical supply house, or maybe from a Home Depot type joint, will work. Just make sure everything is grounded according to code, use #10 or #8 wire and terminate it on a 30a 2 pole breaker.
|12-16-2007 04:48 PM|
The wire will handle the load, just make sure that the breaker feeding the a/c receptacle is 30 amp.
|12-16-2007 03:57 PM|
|55 dude||make sure whatever you do it's code! if that heater starts a fire and burns down your house and was improperly insalled the insurance company can tell you "sorry but were not covering that claim!"|
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