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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Electrical> 79 TA: hazard, right turn signal, brake signal out
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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-25-2007 10:06 PM
Gladis A new turn switch should not be all that pricey----but can be (if tilt) a
ROYAL pita to change

he did change it about a 2 months ago, and to quote myself, the front signals work, all rear lights work, on 79s the whole back lights up when you flip the lights on, and here's a major point, there's a plastic socket wire thing in the trunk, I separated it and tested the incoming end of the wires, the ones that were working ie the main lights and left brake/turn signals had power 12 v and 3v respectively, the one's that were not working ie the right/turn signal brake were dead. Which would clearly indicate to me that the problem lies up front, and in the switch, being that no fuses were blown too, and the grounds are good since all the lights in the rear are on a single ground. I already switched the bulbs from side to side as well, that was the first thing I checked, about 3 months ago I went to town on the sockets cleaning up corrosion.
BOTTOMLINE: this guy screwed up the install of the part, I want him to fix it no charge.
12-25-2007 01:57 PM
jimfulco And make sure they're the correct bulb for the socket. A single-filament bulb in a dual-filament socket will also cause some strange goings-on.
12-25-2007 07:45 AM
MAUSS I agree with 302 Z28, sounds like you've got a bulb or two tying a couple of circuits together. Take out the rear bulbs and put them back in one at a time, alternating sides, while checking operation.
12-25-2007 07:04 AM
302 Z28 In addition to all the things mentioned, do not over look the simple. To assume all your bulbs are good has caused many mechanics to to go a little nuts when a problem cannot be solved. Check all your bulbs for crossed over filaments, they can cause some really weird occurrences.

Vince
12-24-2007 09:55 AM
Bryan59EC Okay
virtually everything going to the back of the car, routes thru the turn switch.
You could very well have a turn switch issue here.

For the brake lights - power goes from the brake switch to the turn switch, and with the signal in the neutral position, it is then split to two separate lines that run back to the rear lamps (batttery power)

For the front signals - the power (ignition buss) goes thru the signal flasher and is then switched to either the left or right FRONT signal.

When the left signal is activated, the switch connects the left FRONT to the flasher--and at the same time, disconnects the left rear from the brake switch and connects it to the left front---thru the flasher.

The right brake signal is still getting power from the brake switch (battery buss) if the brakes are applied.


All kinds of things going on with that switch---so, if the guy did not replace it, and only patched the harness, there is a possibility that a different wire broke.

IF your car has a tilt column----the wiring in the column WILL eventuall break
(2x on my 79 C-10)

A new turn switch should not be all that pricey----but can be (if tilt) a
ROYAL pita to change

Bryan
12-24-2007 08:34 AM
1930u
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gladis
All signals and lights work for the front, left brake light, and sometimes rear left turn signal works. All rear lights come on with main lights. The almighty brown wire to the rear of the vehicle is good. The dark green and yellow are having problems, to rule out the back part of the vehicle I disconnected them in the trunk at a switch thingy and tested them with a voltometer thingy. The brown one was good, which matched the fact that the lights were on. The yellow left turn/brake light showed only a few volts. The dark green (right turn signal, brake signal) showed nothing. I traced the wire through the car, they are encased in a stout plastic tube all the way to the front. Also all fuses are good, none are blown.
Here's the big deal, I didn't quite see where the tube went but it looks like it goes from the fuse box to the steering wheel colum, where's that that thing that decides what blinks when thingy. I recently had a guy who specializes in the electric side of cars fix this, because it was starting to go. I'm thinking he messed it up(it worked correctly right after I got it back from him, who knows when it went bad), and before I get all enraged at this guy is there anything else I can check or am I on the right track to finding the error in my wiring?
For the most part the electrical system on the 70's Firebirds is pretty sound. One simple thing that will really mess things up is faulty chassis and body grounds. There are several ground points where a sheet metal screw or bolt is passing through a ring terminal attaching to the body/firewall/fenders/core support and trunk floor. Take a look around and check them. Even if their tight they can loose continuity from rust and corrosion.

Firebirds were also leak prone T-tops or not and sometimes the water finds it way into wire harnesses or the plastic conduits again causing problems.
Good luck
12-24-2007 02:07 AM
Gladis
79 TA: hazard, right turn signal, brake signal out

All signals and lights work for the front, left brake light, and sometimes rear left turn signal works. All rear lights come on with main lights. The almighty brown wire to the rear of the vehicle is good. The dark green and yellow are having problems, to rule out the back part of the vehicle I disconnected them in the trunk at a switch thingy and tested them with a voltometer thingy. The brown one was good, which matched the fact that the lights were on. The yellow left turn/brake light showed only a few volts. The dark green (right turn signal, brake signal) showed nothing. I traced the wire through the car, they are encased in a stout plastic tube all the way to the front. Also all fuses are good, none are blown.
Here's the big deal, I didn't quite see where the tube went but it looks like it goes from the fuse box to the steering wheel colum, where's that that thing that decides what blinks when thingy. I recently had a guy who specializes in the electric side of cars fix this, because it was starting to go. I'm thinking he messed it up(it worked correctly right after I got it back from him, who knows when it went bad), and before I get all enraged at this guy is there anything else I can check or am I on the right track to finding the error in my wiring?

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