|01-08-2008 05:53 AM|
|chevy_power427||I've heard a lot of good things about the Scorpion roller rocker brand. They got a lifetime waranty which no other company offers. It just happens that I am also thinking about getting some roller rockers. But I also am hesitating, I have seen stainless steel rockers on ebay, the advantage of stainless is that the main body will be quite stronger than the aluminum ones. Personnally, having to change rockers arms, i'd rather go full roller than roller tip, there isn't such a big difference in pricing, and you often get the locks included with the full rollers (I dont know if you get some with the roller tips). By the way, anyone using those stainless "ebay" rockers??|
|01-07-2008 12:43 PM|
I love roller rockers, however they are definately not created equal, and I would stay away from the procomp as I have had some problems with them in the past...namely and this is just ridiculous to me, the poly lock nuts that come with them do not fit in the slot. I had to buy a new set of ARP nuts (50) so I was out 200 right off the bat. Then I noticed that a few had drag on the rollers right out of the box, then once I got them all installed I had to clearance two of them to get them to clear the valve cover.
Long story short buy good ones and you will be happy for a long time. Also if you think about it, they pretty much never wear out so if you use them as long as a few sets of stamped rockers then you have made your money back.
|01-06-2008 10:01 PM|
|Mike H||The Harland Sharp is a good rocker for the money. Stay away from the vacuum cast Roller rockers (crane energizer, Earson etc) As far as aluminum RR's being weaker I run a Crane wide body gold rocker on my dragster and I have 305# of spring pressure on the seat and 815# open pressure and I might kill one a year, the bearings break but I have never broken a body. The stainless Comp Cams are nice but they are heavy and the valve train is where you need to save weight the most. I would buy a long slot stamped steel rocker so you don't have any stud interference problems. Also I would not run a RR without a guide plate and the machine work is going to run quite a bit for a stock head.|
|01-06-2008 09:32 PM|
|Old School Nut||
I agree with the other guys, you should not have to keep adjusting them. just look for valvecover clearance issues... some heads have raised valvecover rails and stock covers will fit some dont and will have issues other than that just check the pushrod length and throw them in! I have used both aluminum harland sharp and comp pro magnum chromemoly rockers, the later in my daily driver and have had no problems, clean each rocker when you get them and then soak them in oil tell they turn smooth and you will have many trouble free miles.
|01-06-2008 02:53 PM|
|Siggy_Freud||I too went with the summit aluminum 1.6 ratio roller rockers. I loved them and never had any problem with them (other than forgetting to lock down the poly locks on my first go at adjusting them).|
|01-05-2008 11:27 PM|
I have that type alum. roller rocker on my valve train, not spinning 6500 that often, street driving and all that, 5 years. I have hydraulics with a car saker cam and I will adjust them a few times a year. I like the way the motor seems to have a balance even sound at idle 950 and at curse.. Have this 73 V twin that is a hydraulic motor and it just loves a valve adjustment, make a huge difference in the way runs..
Set and forget if you like just letting you know that I for one believe in adjusting the valves. A very nice thing that make your motor so happy and it rewards you..
|01-05-2008 09:48 PM|
GM used aluminum full roller tip and roller trunnion 1.6:1 rockers in teh 1996 LT4 engine. The roller trunnion is needed to prevent ball/cup galling above 6000 rpm. The LT4 engine has a fuel shutoff of 6412 rpm.
Even if the geometry is correct, the tip of a rocker does indeed sweep across teh valve stem tip, evr so slightly. Not much at all, but it does, simple geometry/physics.
No need to readjust them.
|01-05-2008 08:21 PM|
|01-05-2008 03:31 PM|
|01-05-2008 01:20 PM|
|MIKE FROM SM||Roller tip rockers are a waist of money. If you have the geometry set up correctly, the rocker arm tip doesn't travel across the valve tip. All the friction is in the ball/cup area. I would just run a new set of stock stamped steel rockers if you run a small cam. If you really want roller rockers, I actually had good luck with the cheap aluminum ones on my daily driver with a large hydraulic flat tappet cam.|
|01-05-2008 12:30 PM|
If I go with the 305, I'm looking at a Lunati Voodoo cam (.437 in./.454 exh)
LUN-60100 at summit for reference.
In the 350, I'm looking at the Voodoo roller cam with a (.507/.515)
This one is LUN-60120 at summit.
I'll post the specs for the motor in a different thread when I get to it, so I guess in this thread I was looking for the pros-cons of the roller rockers vs. roller tips for my planned build and which one would be more reliable over the long haul.
|01-05-2008 12:12 PM|
I guess the main point I want to get across is to not rule out full roller rockers for fear of maintenence.
If cost is an issue, there are ways to alter the block using a holding plate in the lifter valley so that you can run a stock roller cam setup in a block that would normally require retro lifters. A retro roller cam setup can be very expensive.
|01-05-2008 10:32 AM|
I'm either going to rebuild the 305 I have and put a new cam (Possibly retro-roller) in it along with rebuilding the current heads and put new rockers in it (Either roller or roller tip...leaning toward roller tip at the moment for price considerations) or I'm going to build a mild 350 with a block I already have. The finished product will be for my 84 T/A daily driver that honestly, I don't want to put much effort in after this. The engine is the last "Major" component that needed work after the transmission and rear-end that were done last year and when it's done, I can finally put my attention and money where it belongs, on my 67 Camaro.
So the rocker question has significance for both motors. The reason I put 200k as my benchmark is because the current 305 just went over 170K and aside from leaking 2.5 quarts of oil between oil changes, it runs like a champ (Front and rear mains are leaking REALLY bad hehe).
|01-05-2008 08:33 AM|
The advantage of roller tipped rockers is not just friction reduction. They reduce side load on the valve stem as opposed to a regular non roller rocker. A decent set of roller tipped Comp Cams rockers can be had on Ebay for quite a bit less than a full on roller set.
|01-05-2008 02:01 AM|
IMO, If you are going to use roller tipped rockers, you should just save yourself the money and stick with stamped. Their advantage of friction reduction is minimal.
I went with full roller rockers (aluminum) and loved them. After the initial adjustment, I didn't have to readjust them. Just be sure and get some with the poly locks and read up on how to adjust them the first time.
The likelyhood of closing up any engine for 200k is rare, and its really not a big job to pop a valvecover every now and then if need be. But, in my experience I didn't have to mess with them once I set them and locked them in properly.
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