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My Rack is to small

1K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  Triaged 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all and happy New Year

I'm building a ground up IFS. I have set it up taking all factors in to account like caster, camber and toe etc. even got Bump Steer down to +. 008 over 3". My problem is the Rack sets lower than I would like which means it needs to be longer or I have to remove the tack welds holding the "A" arms and move them in so the rack sets higher or find a Rack that is longer.

My question is does any one know of a Web sight or a person or Co. I could contact that would be able to supply the length of R&Ps for TRUCKS . I'm not looking for just free information, if some one has information, or could find a longer rack I would be willing to pay for it.

Iceman

P.S.

If any one is interested or has a good truck R&P that has the two mounting points located underneath the rack let me know and I can supply more information to see if it will fit. I will be posting some information tonight when I get home regarding size.

The image below shows the about size of rack I need. Mounting points measurement around size shown but not much wider.
 

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#2 ·
From what you are saying I think you are pretty good the way that you are..Why do we need to move this thing anyway??..if it is just for cosmetic reasons maybe not..Now if there is some functional reason then we move the thing..

Just from my own take if it does not work it is not pretty..

If you insist perhaps you can go to someone like Art Morrison and they can tell you the various lengths of racks that they use..other wise it may be off to the pic-a-part to measure some racks..

Sam
 
#3 ·
My rack is to small

Hi Sam

The problem is that the Boot just comes in contact with the lower “A” arm and over time would cause a hole in the boot even using the smallest boot that fits. Also how would I contact Art Morrison is he on the Web?
Was just looking at the post of the IFS braking, nasty. That’s why I’m building mine using 1.25” Dom tubing and .25 steel for cross member and mounting points with support gussets. This is the 1936 in the photo at top.

Iceman
 
#4 ·
Just go to artmorrison.com and they do carry some different racks..One of those may work..I have had to do some compromising in design in order to get things to work out in the past..

Also do some searching around in google for R&P steering..that may help..

it does however seem that just a small relocation may do you in this case..

Sam
 
#5 ·
Something that may help others setting things up and taking bump steer measurements. I bought a bump steer gage that had one dial indicator witch worked fine but was hard to (zero out). So I got a digital one that you just position at your starting point and press the zero button. So with the gage mounted at the back of the wheel when it toes in I get a positive number like + .010 and a toes out condition gives me a negative number right on the gage. No math or guessing involved, also a small digital level setting on top of my bump steer plate is easer than trying to see and adjust a bubble level built into my gage. But when you move the setup to the other side make sure your gage is in the same place or be AWARE of the negative / positive switching from front to rear of wheel.

Iceman
 
#7 ·
You may wish to consider a CTO Rack. CTO is center take off as used on things like Skylarks and GM offerings in that size group. The tie rods bolt to the center of the rack. I chose this rack to (try to) reduce bump steer potential

My problem is the opposite. I can't get the rack between my quarter elliptic springs. So, I've taken about an inch and a half off the rack by trimming the gear end and shortening the power steering cylinder. Still, It looks like I'll have to make new spring mounts.
 

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