|07-17-2009 06:59 AM|
|deadbodyman||O.K. the decisent filter is pretty simple too..basicly you'll need to weld a removable plug in the top and bottom for filling and emptying the decisent balls,then you need a "air in' at the top and an "air out" about an inch or two from the bottom...see the picture....and a screen to keep the balls from blowing out of the containers air out side...the balls can be bought at your local paint supply store and cost about 90.00 theres no way around this....except....I had an idea to contact a electronics shipper because the little packets in your new electronics package are the same thing...if you can find out where to get them they might be a lot cheaper....its just silica and all they do is absorb moisture. Soooo ...its just a thought.... after the decisent filter I have a toilit paper roll filter (not shown) just in case...its simply a container that holds a roll of toilit paper ,they cost around a hundred bucks "rediculus" but the decisent filter cost around three hundred bucks,so your talking about 1,000.00 bucks just to filter air ....That hurts and is out of range for a do it yourselfer.I'll be back with more pics on the paper filters.see ya then....if you have any questions nows the time... the next filter is the hardest to make but fun too|
|07-16-2009 11:42 AM|
|07-16-2009 06:30 AM|
|deadbodyman||well...if thats the case then my 60gal bong should be the last one he'll ever need ...the one he's been dreaming about....I think Cheech is a rodder too did you see the truck they made? But I think the water pipe was invented in the middle east thousands of years ago... but it dont make sence...they should be a lot more mellow over there ,hey,mabee cheech & chong should be our goodwill ambasitors to the middle east,wouldn't that be a hoot? I'm going to the shop and I'll be taking pics of the filters and I'll post them ..around 7:00 E.S.T. see ya's then|
|07-16-2009 02:39 AM|
Well... at least he will think about doing it until he takes another hit and then he will forget all about it.
|07-16-2009 01:49 AM|
|deadbodyman||ahhhh,So you watched Cheech & chong too.....My water seperator Guru's.....if Cheech ever found out about this water seperator He'd not only be dreaming about it he'd really be in trouble....does he still sell them or did the big bro close his factory down?Hey mabee he can get some bail out money now least he aint a crook (ceos,bankers,etc)...|
|07-16-2009 12:19 AM|
OK... Pretty simple. So you are using water to take the water vapor out of the air, correct. So when the water level rises to a level to create bubbles from the inlet pipe it starts natural filtration. Exactly like a Bong or what we legally call a Water Pipe in Cali. Not that I have any idea what you are talk about there.
OK... I get that and I have a basic water separator on my compressors that probably does not work as well as this basic concept and cost too much but as you mentioned it is still not good enough for paint. I use last chance filters, but because I don't have anything adequate before that I go through them like crazy.
Anxiously awaiting your next post.
|07-15-2009 11:34 PM|
|deadbodyman||first you'll need a water seperator (filter) connected directly to the compressor tank....my seperator is a n old 60gal air tank but I have a lot of compressor yours may have to be smaller like the old craftsman below.stand it on end and weld some feet on....then on the "air in" side,you run a 3/4" threaded pipe down to the bottom, then raise it up 1" and weld it to the tank so now the air/water goes in and hits the bottom....the water collects on the bottom and the air escapes and goes up to the top of the tank where you connect the air line out....after the water level gets over an inch high the little vapor droplets cant get past the water,gravity does the rest.like the old water pipes hippies smoked out of (I know the guys from Cali know what I mean) then you'll have to drop the pressure to a more useable pressure....mine is 75-100 psi ...the air line now splits and goes to the bodyshop and the paint booth....the air to the bodyshop is pretty much water free but not good enough to paint with or prime with so you'll need more filters......the next one is the decisent filter made from an old portable tire compressor shown below.I'll have to take some more pics from the shop tommorow so I'll continue with the next filter then but before I do ...do you understand everything so far? It's pretty simple really|
|07-15-2009 08:06 PM|
|markha||I Oxy, mig and tig but I tig just about everything these days. I like that welder better and I am better at that process. Yes I am still interested. May even have an extigusher I could donate to the cause.|
|07-15-2009 06:38 PM|
|deadbodyman||out of portable compressor tanks or fire extinguesers....found at scrap yards theres hundreds of them...can you weld? if not can you JB weld? Still interested?|
|07-15-2009 06:12 PM|
|markha||I know this post is a little old... But I am interested. How does Deadbodyman make air supply filters for cheap?|
|05-13-2009 04:43 AM|
|deadbodyman||BINGO!!!!!!! Good booth filters have a sticky side to trap dirt,Ive used furnace filters in the past and sprayed differnt types of sticky stuff on them like spray glue in a can but you need something that stays sticky like pine pitch and spray thinner on it occationaly to rejuvinate it but real booth filters are what you need now,to solve this problem. any paint supply store can get them for 20.00 ea our you can google them and save cash...Your air supply filters look fine(way better than mine)save your cash on filters there EZ to make.For just a couple bucks and some stuff laying around I can show you how to make filters and seperators that'll be the envey of all the paint shops around especially when you tell them TEN bucks not a THOUSAND bucks I use mine every day.EVERYONE laughs until they see how well they work,I dont buff EVER!!!!!|
|05-13-2009 02:04 AM|
Sticky Filters ? Coalescence/Coalescer filter usage.
and sure there is dirt/dust in the air, I'm surrounded by large workshops - car body/woodwork/plasterwork etc, its a dusty site. When the sun gets low dust can be seen glinting in the air outside, a lot of it, the blue filters should take care of that ?
And i forgot : what do you make of the coalescence filter interior pic?
The white dots are the internal filter material (the darker ones are just white but in shade), blue foam outside. Doesn't look clogged/dirty to me, the filter looks mint. (Replacements are stupidly expensive). Does anyone have experience with these things , do they just stop working after a while?
|05-12-2009 03:14 PM|
|deadbodyman||like cboy says,heres a way to test,get up on a ladder and rub your finger on it is it rough?if so sheet over it but leave the old one up and use card board strips and staples to hold it up ,lots of staples,and then more staples|
|05-12-2009 03:02 PM|
|deadbodyman||I like how you store your long pieces of wood,I store mine 8' up too. Now I really cant see any trouble with your booth,I suggest this though,since you have two fans,use them,the bigger one sucking filterd air in and the little one blowing out,unfilterd for now.the pressurized booth will blow dirt out of any cracks insted of sucking it in.Is there saw dust in or around the booth?what kind of environment surrounds the booth?make sure the filters are sealed on the intake,double up the filters and use them on both sides of the intake fan.Now seal the exhaust filters use them on both sides also,dont use sticky filters on exhaust but use them on intake ,if the wind blows through the unfilterd exhaust it might just blow dirt right by the fan,the sticky side goes toward the inside of the booth.Now your booth is done so try it again see what happens.this may be all you need ,if you still have trouble we'll go to step two. also your air supply looks good too,heres a way to test get a piece of glass or mirror use your blower at wide open and blow air on the glass,this will tell you if any moisture is in the line(kind of like how they used to tell if someone was dead or alive in the old days)|
|05-12-2009 10:38 AM|
In general, the problem with plastic/poly temporary type booths is that the paint cloud gets on those surfaces, dries, and then the next time you paint it can be dislodged and start flying around the booth.
For the cost of another poly ceiling, it might be worth taking down the current one and just shooting the way you used to do it...again just a part of the process of elimination.
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