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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-30-2009 04:55 AM
Chevrolet4x4s Congratulations Joe

Shane
06-29-2009 11:49 PM
techinspector1 "360 - 45 is 315"

Shame on me.
06-29-2009 09:08 PM
low budget rodder Hey Chevrolet4x4s, that looks like it would work perfect (over a solid mount)...

as for the 45 degrees techinspector1, 360 - 45 is 315... I think we are saying about the same thing... Thanks again.

Everyone has been great... there has been a delay in the build however...
another baby should arrive at the end of august, so the wife has me doing "family expansion" projects...

I should be back on it soon and will keep everyone posted.

Thanks again,

~Joe
06-28-2009 10:10 PM
greenmoonshine
Quote:
Originally Posted by low budget rodder
I’m doing it because I don’t think I’ve seen a 2 engine car driving around my neighborhood recently, and I think this car would be noticed.
HA HA..........Yeah man, now that you mention it,I havent seen any V16's cruisin around my town lately either
I will say this......you are definitely on the right track to getting noticed though........this is Money
GM
06-28-2009 02:09 PM
Chevrolet4x4s
http://www.sterndrive.info/sterndriv...e_coupler.html
I believe this is what you will need,You will need to have the snout of your crankshaft splined though.
Shane
06-28-2009 08:51 AM
ap72 I was just thinking of the rubber biscut deal too- its some steel plates with rubber inbetween to allow for a little flex and vibration dampening- probably a lot better than a chain drive in this application.

As far as matching goes they do not need to match, you could do a ford 1.6L with a BBC 632 if you wanted to (don't know why you would though).

Chain drives have been done but they seem to be more for two engines mounted in parallell not in series. I'd like to see 2 northstar V8s together- 64 valves of fury.
06-27-2009 11:47 PM
techinspector1 I don't know what 315 degrees has to do with anything.

Each motor has a firing event every 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation. 720 crankshaft degrees of rotation makes one complete cycle on each motor. My best thinking tells me that the rear motor should be connected to the front motor with the rear motor staggered 45 degrees from the front one. Front motor at zero, rear motor at either 45 ATDC or 45 BTDC. That way, you get a firing event every 45 degrees instead of every 90 like with one motor only.

I would also use a large rubber biscuit to mate them instead of tieing them together solid with hubs and chain. I've seen these before, but I can't remember where. Maybe a marine piece.
06-27-2009 08:57 PM
Bert H
v 16

im with dan here on this there is actually a coupling made to do this exact thing any one ever watched tractor pulls? even if one engine was way more powerful than the other one it would still drag the weaker one around and 2 electric water pumps would be ideal but i dont see why they wouldnt stand alone and run indepent of each other (the cooling system).
04-04-2008 05:22 PM
Ohio-Dan Don't worry about matching everything up between both motors.

I'll say it again...


Don't worry about matching everything up between both motors.


The first twins I was ever around was an Allis Chalmers that had a Mopar 426 and a Chevy 327 mounted together.....There wasn't squat the same on those motors except that they would both achieve peak power in the 6000rpm range...


The second Multi-Engine set up I was privy to was the War Wagon. Two or Three Aries Hemi engines, depending on the pull being a state or national event.


http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/sh.../cat/500/page/
I was thinking to myself, a real life, highly engineered, high performance outfit. Unlike the seemingly cobbled up old Allis Chalmers that had been built in a home shop by some jack leg.


Right away, Paul bursts my bubble. One engine he had built, The others where used engines. One of which the exact specs where unknown. One had a Mallory Mag, and another a MSD electronic set up. The front engine had a starter. The rest where fired by engaging a clutch. Where the clutch locked up dictated what crank fazing was to be had on that outing.

Different compression ratios, different boost settings, different ignition systems, different cubic inches, and if they where timed together it was pure luck.

All that mismatch and it ran fine...

Make a coupler to hook the two together and forget about the rest. Dan
04-04-2008 01:41 PM
low budget rodder
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImRoyaltyInMyChevy
what do you mean exactly by putting them "end to end", because if your trying to make a v16 engine i think that would be WAY ABOVE THE SKILL LEVEL OF MOST OF THE PEOPLE HERE,
This may be above the skill level of most people here. I have an idea on how I can get them to run together and use as a driver. I’m not trying to do a tractor pull, or race a quarter mile… I’m doing it because I don’t think I’ve seen a 2 engine car driving around my neighborhood recently, and I think this car would be noticed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ImRoyaltyInMyChevy
You would need to weld the cranks to make one, the cam to make one, connect the water galleys so the water pump on the front engine will flow through both, and connect the oil galleys so you can use the oil pump on the back one to flow through both.
I think you may be over-engineering the dual engine set-up. To keep the two engines square to each other, I would create a cradle to rigidly mount the two engines and then use motor mounts from the cradle to the frame. To join the cranks, I would use 2 sprockets (one on the back of the front engine, and one on the front of the back engine) and connect them with a double roller chain. To keep the strain on the chain to a minimum, I would have the rear engine 315 degrees off of the front engine, so every cylinder would have its own firing time / sequence. This minimizes one engine from being the “drive” engine and the other the “driven” engine.

Since the cam shafts are connected via a timing chain to the crankshaft, then they are also in sequence with the proper firing order. As for pumps (oil and water), I don’t believe a single stock pump would have enough head pressure to operate both engines, but keeping them separate would still keep the pumps flowing like normal. For both engines to share a radiator, The water pumps would be connected in parallel with the ports connected like the old Packard Siamese engines of around 1913 (check Jay Leno’s garage 1913 Packard if you are not sure of Siamese cylinder engine).

Quote:
Originally Posted by ImRoyaltyInMyChevy
And to make it work good you need to make everything in the engines the same like bore, heads, cam, intake, and also figure out a way to make the distributor on the back run 16 plug wires lol, because it wouldn't be as even i would think with two.
sooo, I don't know what your trying to do, but maybe I'm just the one with the Frankenstein mind!
Well, the engines are both 305 (same bore and stroke), the 2 cams (as mentioned in the original message) are the lunati 60101 so the valve lift and duration is the same for timing. Manifold vacuum would be tied together to commonize the intake. All that is left is the distributor. I think 2 stock HEI distributors would be fine and both would advance at the same rate with common manifold vacuum… so it should be okay for street driving.

None of this seems like rocket science, just brain surgery. I could be wrong on a lot of this, but I think for a “conversation piece driver vehicle” that sucks down gas, I should be able to drive this and have it work relatively well.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ImRoyaltyInMyChevy
and if anyone has experience with doing this feel free to correct any of my ideas on how this would actually bed done
I agree… if anyone has experience with doing this feel free to correct any of my ideas on how this would actually bed done.
04-03-2008 03:03 PM
ImRoyaltyInMyChevy what do you mean exactly by putting them "end to end", because if your trying to make a v16 engine i think that would be WAY ABOVE THE SKILL LEVEL OF MOST OF THE PEOPLE HERE, you would need to weld the cranks to make one, the cam to make one, connect the water galleys so the water pump on the front engine will flow through both, and connect the oil galleys so you can use the oil pump on the back one to flow through both.
and to make it work good you need to make everything in the engines the same like bore, heads, cam, intake, and also figure out a way to make the distributer on the back run 16 plug wires lol, because it wouldn't be as even i would think with two.
sooo, I don't know what your trying to do, but maybe I'm just the one with the Frankenstein mind!
and if anyone has experience with doing this feel free to correct any of my ideas on how this would actually bed done
04-03-2008 10:16 AM
low budget rodder Any tips or tricks that you would recommend to make my life a little easier (besides don't put the 2 motors together)???

Thanks
04-01-2008 04:09 PM
Ohio-Dan The 60101 will work well in a 305. It'll run out of steam in the 5200-5400 rpm range.

Don't worry about matching everything up between both motors. The same basic operating range is all you need. It just doesn't matter if the engines have the same heads, compression ratio, carb sizes, or ignition systems in them. They don't even need to be from the same manufacturer to be compatible....Dan
04-01-2008 01:05 PM
low budget rodder
Lunati cam and 305 sbc questions in a Frankenstein

I need help (I’m sure in more ways than one!)

Background:
I am in the process of building a “hot rod / rat rod / Frankenstein” driver car that is a little different than many other cars in my town. I am bolting 2 sbc engines together (end to end) and I am trying to build it on the cheap. Since Free is cheap, I obtained a couple of sbc 305in2 including Heads, intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, water pumps, covers, pans, etc. In the attempt to match the engines, (and because I got a killer deal) I just bought 2 Bran new Lunati VooDoo cam and lifter sets (60101) for $25 each set (Don’t ask – Just the right place at the right time).

My questions:
How does the Lunati VooDoo cam and lifter set (60101) affect the performance on a 305 sbc?

What kind of “daily driving” characteristics can I expect from the Lunati VooDoo cam and lifter set (60101) in a single 305 sbc?

What identifying marks can I find on the cylinder heads to see if the engines have a match set? (I do not know what the engines came out of)

How can I tell the year of the sbc 305 engines? More specifically, what is the difference between the 305 engines throughout the years (so I can really tell and understand what it is that I have)?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Joe Ferrero

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