|12-20-2008 09:26 AM|
This should work, Surplus Center has about anything you could ever need for a compressor and they have a really good (and friendly) tech dept.
Do you have a Tractor Supply nearby? They keep switches in stock or you can order from them online. Just make SURE that the switch you get has a connector for that un-loader!!
|12-20-2008 08:42 AM|
Oldred I know this an old post but I have the same compressor that kartman bought, and in a move my regulator got broken off, no one at Home Depot knows where to get parts for these and everyone else says go to the website but all that does is take me to the Home Depot site for sales, any idea where I can pick up a regulator for this?
Thanks in advance
|04-09-2008 05:39 AM|
|oldred||You definitly got a deal on that one! Don't worry about the crankshaft end play believe it or not that is about normal for those things and if everything is still tight (apparently it is) then your compressor may last a long time. Considering how fast it builds pressure I would think that the total time on this outfit must be fairly low and that motor problem may have been due to running in a dirty environment, the clogged air filter would indicate that also but it would seem the pump survived without undue wear. I would suggest changing the oil in the pump again after an hour or so of operation and maybe again in another couple of hours to help remove any stray metal shavings left inside, after that you should be OK.|
|04-09-2008 04:09 AM|
Thanks for the replies and great suggestions. I spent a few hours after work in the garage pulling the motor off to run all the checks you suggested. Ended up taking the capacitors off, cleaned them up in addition to opening up the motor housing and vacuming up all the black soot/dust in there. Swapped out the electrical connectors (they were all gummed up) and put everything back together.
oldred: While I had the belt off, I checked the pump as you suggested and there was no side to side movement on the pulley or slack on the connecting rods (as far as I could tell anyways). However, if I pulled on the pulley in a front to back motion, there is approximately a 1/4 inch amount of play. Is this OK?
Put everything back together, hooked it up again and to my surprise, the motor came to life! Verified that the check valve, pressure switch and unloader are all functional. Here is a video of it running:
Does it sound like everything is normal? To fill the compressor from 0-135psi took approximately 6.5 minutes and from 90-135psi it took 2 minutes flat.
This is my first oil lubricated compressor and wanted to verify if it is supposed to be this loud. It is not quite as loud as my old oil less Devilbiss but it isn't quiet either.
Now all that is left for me to do is to chase down a small leak. I am losing about 5 psi in pressure every 30-45 minutes.
Thanks again guys!
|04-08-2008 07:35 PM|
Keep in mind that the amperage rating and the service factor (that's the 1.0 next the SF) determine the actual power of the motor. The 1.0 SF means it's an Up rated motor, actually smaller than whatever Horsepower they are claiming.
Make sure that you match up the new one to those ratings and you'll be fine.
You could just take that motor in to a Grainger or whatever you have close to you and match it up.
Oldred is absolutely right that the capacitors do sometimes blow, if that's the only problem, make sure you label the terminals before pulling the wires off, or you'll be scratching your head like crazy trying to figure out how to reconnect them.
One other thing is to see if it has an adjustable pressure switch. It may have been turned up extremely high, might have caused the problem with the motor, making it run too hard in order to attain a very high pressure.
No matter what, it was a good buy!
|04-08-2008 09:07 AM|
First off, for $80 you got a deal! That motor is by far the most commonly used unit for these compressors no matter what brand the compressor is, ditto for the pump. The usual failure for the motor is one or both of the capacitors on the motor and I bet if you pull the covers off the side of the motor one or both will be swelled and/or ruptured so check that first, even if the motor is toast you still got a heck of a deal. If the pump ran for a year and never had the oil changed at all then the color and the metal shavings would not be unusual but if the crank and rods are still sound you will probably be OK here, for a while anyway. With the belt off turn the pump flywheel back and forth and see if there is any slack that would indicate a rod loose on the crank and also listen for any "clanking" sounds. Most likely the pump is OK and the compressor was down from motor failure so if that is the case you would be money ahead to just scrap that Emerson and find yourself a good 15 AMP motor, maybe even another Emerson if you can get a good deal on one but a Baldor or GE would last a lifetime! There was discussion just in the last couple of days concerning a burned out compressor motor (another Emerson) and you may want to check for the same problems as a cause for this motor failure. IMMEDIATELY upon starting your new or repaired motor watch the compressor closely as it builds pressure for the first time and make sure you do not hear any hissing or other unusual sounds coming from the pressure switch. When it reaches shut-off pressure you should hear a short burst of air from the cutoff switch that would indicate the unloader valve is working, failure of this unloader system is probably the biggest cause of motor failure on these compressors. When the tank pressure falls to the startup level and the motor again kicks on make sure it does so easily and does not start slowly or try to stall. If the motor, with pressure in the tank, does seem to be under an excess load at startup then make sure the the plastic (probably plastic anyway) line from the pump discharge to the pressure switch (that's it going to the bottom of the pressure switch in the pic) is intact and not plugged. Also since this thing has been disassembled you want to make SURE the check valve that prevents pressure from flowing from the tank back into the pump is still in place, air should b able to flow from the pump into the tank but it should not be able to reverse direction and flow back into the pump. Hope this gets you started in the right direction and that the motor is the only problem but even if you have to replace both the motor and pump (not likely) you still got a really good deal since just a one year old tank by itself is worth a lot more than you paid.
BTW, when looking for a motor just remember that the Emerson was probably over-rated and and a 15 AMP motor is what you will be looking for. That 15 AMP Emerson was around 3 1/2 HP regardless of what the compressor labels claim which may have been as much as 7 "peak" HP!
|04-08-2008 03:40 AM|
Paging oldred: Husky Compressor Question
Been lurking on the forum for a few months reading all the posts I could about compressors. I came across a deal on CraigsList this weekend and bought this for $80:
I knew I was in for project when I went to pick this up as the compressor was more or less taken apart except for the motor and pump. He told me that it did run before he took it out of service. I turned the pulley to verify the pump was not seized up. Both motor and pump spun with ease so I gathered up the loose pieces, paid the man and went on my way.
Spent most of the weekend cleaning up the compressor (new fittings, changed the oil) and putting all the loose parts back on. When I hooked it all up and turned it on, nothing happened! Checked all my connections with the multi meter and verified that there is 240V (10/3 Romex connected to a 30A breaker) going the motor. Thought it was a bad pressure switch so I bypassed that and hooked the motor up directly to the hot leads and ground wire. Still nothing. Is the motor bad? Anything I can do to test this further or is my only recourse to try and find a new motor?
As for the pump, when I drained the oil it was very dark and had a lot of metal shavings in it. Iím sure the original owner did not change it the entire time he had in service (a little over a year). The intake filter was VERY dirty as well and filled with oil. Is there a good chance the pump is toast too? Any tests I can try without a motor?
If any of the other fantastic members have any input, Iím all ears! Thanks in advance for your advice.
BTW, this is a great forumÖ.