|05-04-2008 03:00 AM|
|bentwings||I spent a lot of time designing mounts with rubber spacers and made them so the bolts do not contact the frame or body directly just like today's cars and trucks. The biggest problem is trying to make the body strong enough at the hard points. If you look at todays cars and trucks you can see the effort that has been done in this area. Keep in mind that they also have access to any amount of stress analysis testing needed. After doing some stress analysis I was all set to fabricate them and then asked myself why do this when the car is only going to be driven occassionally and never off road. Henry and the others already did this a long time ago and it worked for them. So I scrapped the idea....rather dumped it in the recycle bin. haha The web works great. I made a couple hole cutters to make installing it easier. Actually you can just drill right thru it. I did use nyloc nuts to allow even tightening and assurance that the fastener assembly will stay tight.|
|05-01-2008 09:41 AM|
You really need these pieces - and Mac's is about as good as any:http://www.macsautoparts.com/
This stuff is also found on page 36 of their 2006 cat which may NOT be the latest for '32-'48 Fords
The self stick stuff is nice but the regular webbing with 2 sided carpet tape is more forgiving. You need to pop some body mount holes in the webbing and masking tape works just fine to hold it temporarily to the fraame as it has to come off several times. You also need a marking device. I used some threaded rod (or a bolt with the head cut off), sharpened to a point, put a piece of masking tape around the webbing for a good definitive mark, then tap it a couple of times with a hammer. To cut the holes - sharpen a piece of 1/4" to 1/2" black iron pipe and whang the heck out of it over a hard piece of wood - if you have hole punches - even better yet. The webbing is very tough. It also wont curve so you can make pie cuts part way thru to help.
|05-01-2008 09:09 AM|
|dinger||Squeegee material works well, it's available at hardware stores.|
|04-30-2008 04:24 PM|
|Adamrmr||thanks dave. i'm also working on reinforcing the body, Just want to make sure i take every step so MAYBE i can paint this car|
|04-30-2008 03:34 PM|
|04-30-2008 03:25 PM|
|Adamrmr||By not installing a webbing/rubber could it cause the body to crack? i have some cracks on my 35 body and was told it could because the body is sitting on the frame with out a rubber.Is that true|
|04-30-2008 03:10 PM|
|techinspector1||Used webbing on my T. Worked fine.|
|04-30-2008 11:29 AM|
|RPM||I have built several T Buckets and I use a weather stripping from NAPA that is for a camper shell on a pick up truck. It seems to work just fine. About 2" wide and comes in 25' roll. Goes between the camper shell and the top of the truck bed.|
|04-30-2008 11:25 AM|
I used the frame webbing that Deuce mentioned and it worked out fine. Just make sure that when you bolt the car together for the initial fit that you use the frame webbing just like you are going together for the final time or when you do go back together nothing will fit right.
|04-30-2008 11:11 AM|
On the early Fords ( say 28 to 34 ) and lots of other makes ... I prefer to use frame webbing. It is like a thick, heavy canvas type material. Most rod shops have it.
On the 32 Ford frame specs shown above, you can clearly see where the bolts go. There are no body bolts in the center area of the body. I also believe that the frame webbing supports the body more evenly and firmly that other types.
Just my nickel ...
|04-30-2008 10:52 AM|
I would..make em from heavy truck mud flaps...or get some rubber donuts from McMaster Carr..find them for free at the pick-apart..Speedway May have something usable as well..
|04-30-2008 10:37 AM|
Bolting a glass body to frame? rubber spacers
DO i need to install rudder spacers/mounts between the frame and glass body or is it ok just to bolt the frame with out any rubber