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Bolting a glass body to frame? rubber spacers

7K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  bentwings 
#1 ·
DO i need to install rudder spacers/mounts between the frame and glass body or is it ok just to bolt the frame with out any rubber
 
#3 ·
On the early Fords ( say 28 to 34 ) and lots of other makes ... I prefer to use frame webbing. It is like a thick, heavy canvas type material. Most rod shops have it.



On the 32 Ford frame specs shown above, you can clearly see where the bolts go. There are no body bolts in the center area of the body. I also believe that the frame webbing supports the body more evenly and firmly that other types.

Just my nickel ... :D
 
#4 ·
I used the frame webbing that Deuce mentioned and it worked out fine. Just make sure that when you bolt the car together for the initial fit that you use the frame webbing just like you are going together for the final time or when you do go back together nothing will fit right.

Vince
 
#8 ·
Adamrmr said:
By not installing a webbing/rubber could it cause the body to crack? i have some cracks on my 35 body and was told it could because the body is sitting on the frame with out a rubber.Is that true :confused:
Probably not but there still is an outside chance that it could have contributed to it though. Frame webbing and the rubber mounts allow for a small amount of flexibility and slip when the frame twists - and it will twist to a certain extent regardless of who built the chassis. Most fiberglass bodies will eventually develop some minor cracking especially if the car was assembled before the body fully cured - and that can take from days to months. There are other contributing factors - and the primary one is lack of good reinforcing. We went through this a week or so ago with you with a very informative thread.

Dave W
 
#11 ·
Adam

You really need these pieces - and Mac's is about as good as any:http://www.macsautoparts.com/

This stuff is also found on page 36 of their 2006 cat which may NOT be the latest for '32-'48 Fords

Padset 48-5001:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort~A2

Webbing B5000:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort~A2

The self stick stuff is nice but the regular webbing with 2 sided carpet tape is more forgiving. You need to pop some body mount holes in the webbing and masking tape works just fine to hold it temporarily to the fraame as it has to come off several times. You also need a marking device. I used some threaded rod (or a bolt with the head cut off), sharpened to a point, put a piece of masking tape around the webbing for a good definitive mark, then tap it a couple of times with a hammer. To cut the holes - sharpen a piece of 1/4" to 1/2" black iron pipe and whang the heck out of it over a hard piece of wood - if you have hole punches - even better yet. The webbing is very tough. It also wont curve so you can make pie cuts part way thru to help.



Dave W
 
#12 ·
I spent a lot of time designing mounts with rubber spacers and made them so the bolts do not contact the frame or body directly just like today's cars and trucks. The biggest problem is trying to make the body strong enough at the hard points. If you look at todays cars and trucks you can see the effort that has been done in this area. Keep in mind that they also have access to any amount of stress analysis testing needed. After doing some stress analysis I was all set to fabricate them and then asked myself why do this when the car is only going to be driven occassionally and never off road. Henry and the others already did this a long time ago and it worked for them. So I scrapped the idea....rather dumped it in the recycle bin. haha The web works great. I made a couple hole cutters to make installing it easier. Actually you can just drill right thru it. I did use nyloc nuts to allow even tightening and assurance that the fastener assembly will stay tight.
 
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